Killer hornets, leave the car and move.
Something is still running while engine is not on please help
- Thread starter bobbystang
- Start date
is the starter retracted and spinning or something? I just cant think of what would make any noise at key forward and engine off other than the fan. I have a hard time seeing anything with the IAC being that loud
Retracted and spinning? I did change my starter last year n I’ve had no issues with it since. I’m just trying to figure out what you mean by that and the Fan blade is not moving so that I know for a fact is a no
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when you start the car the shaft of the starter extends out so the gear engages the flywheel/flex plate to turn the motor over then retracts when you let go of the key. How it would be triggered just key forward I don't know but perhaps somehow the starter is spinning over in the retracted position and thats your whirring noise?
Your IAC and EGR valves are electronically controlled but EGR is driver side rear of the engine bay. The fan isn't running so that would seem to leave the IAC (again, struggle to see it making a noise), the starter is passenger side, there a valve for the evap system in the pass fender and the CCRM in the pass fender.
You may have to get under the car and crawl around to narrow it down
Not that it helps OP much but my stock intercooler pump sounds just like that too. Since my car is Eaton swapped I have it wired to be on anytime the key is on.
I appreciate you letting me know that but this just happened and I’ve had the car since 2002 and I’ve had my supercharger on it since 2008. So for it to start out of nowhere is just odd. I dropped it off to my good mechanic down the street. I’m gonna keep you guys all informed when he lets me know what it is and why
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So just to let you guys all know my mechanic looked at the car and the noise was coming from that metal square box with the metal cable cords under the blower which inside that box controls the antilock brakes he said.
He monitored it for a week it went away he said and then it came back the noise and my car had no codes whatsoever the ABS nothing like that. My ABS light is on and it has been on for years but my mechanic said he wouldn’t worry about it and just enjoy driving it and if something does happen to let him know but want to hear your guys thoughts or if anyone has had this issue with that metal box staying on when the car is on the on position
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So that’s your ABS block and attached to that is the ABS computer. The computer failing is common (and not terribly expensive to fix). Never seen one of them making noise though, interesting.
Yes when the car is on the on position it makes like a winding sound coming out of it and then I start the car and I don’t hear it no more. My brakes seem perfectly fine with no issues but do you think this is a sign of that computer going out? The sound at the on position comes and goes it’s not every single time
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Also when you say ABS computer I just looked that up and the only thing I can find is electrical relay the little square box with like the three or four prongs on it is that what you’re referring to? If not please give me a link to the part you’re talking about that I might need
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the fact that your ABS light has been on is a pretty good indicator the ABS computer is messed up.
In this photo you can see the machined block all that hard lines for your brakes go into, then above that it looks like a cast metal section and above that is a black plastic section. That black plastic is the ABS computer
In this photo you can see the machined block all that hard lines for your brakes go into, then above that it looks like a cast metal section and above that is a black plastic section. That black plastic is the ABS computer
The ABS light came on probably I would say honestly five years ago when I put my saleen wheels 18” on the car and it’s been on ever since and I’ve never felt any issue. I also noticed that once I got my car back today the ABS light was off after the mechanic looked at the car. I have never felt any issues at all whatsoever with my braking.
If you put any link or attachments on your post I don’t see anything. If there’s an official name for what part I would need potentially to make this issue go away maybe let me know. thanks
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whoops
ABS Unit XR3Z-2C286-EA Bosch 6002A3S002 Ford Mustang
the black plastic piece on the end is the computer
When ABS light is on if you slam on the brakes it will lock em up, no pedal modulation and traction control wont function. If the light is currently off then its working at the moment. If the light comes back on they can check with a scanner (a standard handheld or what autozone has wont work), if it comes back that it cant communicate with the abs module its probably bad. If that happens do a search for the Mustang ABS Control Module repair.
You said the light came on when you put on new wheels - could be a damaged sensor (theres one on each spindle up front) or if you have different tires and the height difference exceeds X amount it'll trip the light but it takes a certain number of revolutions before it trips the light
When I got my car tuned I had traction control permanently turned off so I don’t starve the fuel lines for any reason and idk if that made a difference but that was done back in 2007. Got the link thank you
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