Spring Isolator

[thatdude305]

The spring isolator on my right side is gone. car squeaks down the road, it sounds awful and embarrasing. I see it a $30 part. Any idea what the labor would be. And before anyone says anything I cannot do it myself. No time and no place and dont know how

 

[apex svt]

Irs or sra?

 

[Soap]

Irs or sra?

He could be talking about the front end.

--Joe

 

[Huachipato]

I just replaced the LCA on mine. It is a bit of a pain since I imagine you would at least need to disconnect the bottom of the strut and disconnect the sway bar (recommend both front wheels off the ground). You may need to remove the brake caliper, tie rod and ABS sensor too. Be sure to put a jack under the LCA before you disconnect the strut and sway bar.

Dropping the LCA once everything is disconnected is easy. Using the jack under the LCA and drop it slowly. It will uncompress the spring and it will pretty much fall out. You may need to loosen the bolt holding the LCA to the car so it will fully drop since the LCA bushing will hold tension trying to keep the LCA in it's default height.

The hard part is getting the spring back in - it is pretty much a 2 person step. I had to tape the isolator to the top of my spring, to help keep it in place. Once it is somewhat seated you can put the jack under the LCA again and try to compress it up (this is the hardest part by far). I had to use a crow bar to help get the spring seated before I jacked it up. Once you are ready to compress again, the objective is to get it connected to the strut and make sure the sway bar link is going into the LCA. Once you get those two bolts into the strut, then you are in the clear and can reconnect anything else that may have been disconnected.

I did manage to do one side in my own, but it really is easier to have one person making sure the spring seats correctly and the sway bar link is properly seating into the LCA while someone else handles the jack duties.

Also be sure to torque the LCA to body bolts with the car in the ground if possible. I had to get an alignment done after what I did so I asked them to loosen and retorque the bolts as they did the alignment.

Hope this helps...

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

 

[Soap]

Hope this helps...

It won't, you must have not fully read his post.

And before anyone says anything I cannot do it myself. No time and no place and dont know how

--Joe

 

[98 svt]

The spring isolator on my right side is gone. car squeaks down the road, it sounds awful and embarrasing. I see it a $30 part. Any idea what the labor would be. And before anyone says anything I cannot do it myself. No time and no place and dont know how

Front or rear?
Either way, buy them as a pair and have them both done.

 

[Steve23]

Before you stick with the isolator, ask yourself this. Are my struts good? They squeak when junk. Are my ball joints, tie rods and links good as well? How about thr sway bar bushings? Just saying but, I removed all my isolators and don't have a single squeak. However, on 1 of my past mustangs, every time I hit a bump the front end squeaked. Thought it was a bad strut, turned out to be a worn out ball joint. Anyways, my advice before you do that, especially since you're paying, make sure the front end is tight first.

Sent from my SM-G935T using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[Black2010]

Not sure what book time is (what you would be charged) but a competent mechanic with the right tools should be able to do both (should replace in pairs) in about an hour. I'd expect to pay 4 hours of book time though at least which is going to be around $400 depending on cost in your location. This is assuming it's the front.

The rear is even easier, not by the book, but I'm betting book time is higher as I doubt it states to remove the rear SRA bolts and pivot the rear.

My "guess" is $400 for front and maybe $400-$500 for the rear. This is just a guess though.

 

[Huachipato]

Before you stick with the isolator, ask yourself this. Are my struts good? They squeak when junk. Are my ball joints, tie rods and links good as well? How about thr sway bar bushings?

To add to this, I had crazy clicking sounds when I hit bumps after adding new lower ball joints and sway bar bushings. It wasn't until I went in to get the car aligned that they told me my caster/camber plate bearing was not holding the strut in place properly. That is what was causing all the clicking noises. I got an aftermarket Caster/Camber plates in and the car now feels great again.

 

[thatdude305]

Its the front passenger side. It squeaks while I'm driving. And I will do both sides. I will have them look at the entire front end. This car has been such a headache lately