update!!! I just changed my quadrant from a steeda quick release to a upr triple hook installed the cable on the second hook and VIOLA NO MORE SQUEAL!!!!! I don't understyand why and I don't really care, but it does not do it anymore.
Squealing sound when clutch engages
- Thread starter 03 svt
- Start date
Just installed a new dfx and frpp steel flywheel and the squeal is there. I miss my Spec 3 already. I also switched the stock cable to a frpp adjustable clutch cable and no dice. Not very happy right now. Everyone loves the DFX well they can keep it... haha
having the same problem for a while now. i have spec stag3 and its been in the car for about 20k miles with no noise until a few months ago. i just had to have my transmission overhauled cause every time i put it in 6th gear it would kick it right back out. all but my 3 & 4 gear synchronizers were jack up. so while they were rebuilding it i ordered a frpp tob, polit bearing, lethal performance retainer sleeve, and a factory clutch cable. i figured since the trans was already out i would have them replace every thing that could be making the noise. oh my clutch & flywheel looked fine. so just got the car back yesterday & its still making that noise! but the transmission shop is going to look at again so if i find anything out ill let y'all know.
^ thanks man will watch for an update!
Just another Chiming in with the same noise! I bought the car used and cannot speak for the TOB or pilot bearing. But I did look through the bell housing and the pressure plate is blue suggesting that it is a spec clutch. My clutch also chatters ALOT and squeals just like the video posted at half engagement with no throttle input.
Yeah, but was it the quadrant or the readjustment due to changing the quadrant which got rid of the squeal?
In my experience, a TOB will squeal when there is just a small amount of freeplay. If it goes away when you lightly rest your foot on the pedal, then either adjust in more preload or go with the LDC spring and adjust out the preload. (edit)
If the squeal is still present with more freeplay, then your only choice is to replace the TOB. Sounds to me like for the OP, it was the amount of freeplay.
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op any updates?
ya dude i wanna know what this is i have exactly the same sound comin from my clutch just like the op i always thought i was the only one i also have a fidanza 4.3 lethal tob sleeve but steeda triple hook not sure why mine still squeals....maybe its a delaware thing lol
I just spoke with Roger @ Centerforce and he said the screeching sound will stick around for a while until the clutch breaks in. The disc material just has to wear down a bit and mate with the flywheel. So I hope this helps everyone. I am still considering removing it and going back to the Spec 3.
Heh with about 70K on our clutch, I don't think its going to break in anytime soon.
ya i have to agree with this mine is definitly not new and still happens but im sellin my cobra so i dont really give an f
Did you ever figure out what the squealing was??? Lazy did not want to read through 3 pages of comments. My Fidanza 7.6 did this as well almost every time I would take off from a dead stop. It never went a way and the 7.6 took a shit after only 5k miles. I could never pin point the problem. Got an RXT now and it is much much much better clutch.
3 pages of people posting various solutions to their problems. Read it.
Clutch / Trans Issue
Hey Guys,
This post has been a good read ... I wanted to share my issues(s). Had an increasing significant squeel noise when the clutch was out, only way to reduce or eliminate it was to drive the car with the clutch pressed in about 1-2". In 1 short trip it got bad so I just drove it home and to the shop the next day.
Bought the FRPP TOB and PB to be put in, already had the UPR Quad/FW adjuster installed.
Turns out the 5" long tube that the TOB rides on broke off of the bell housing (it's just pressed in there), Ford says no new part, you have to buy a whole new housing with the shaft in it for $490.00. So, new housing goes in plus the new TOB and PB. New fluid and that's it.
Have the Centerforce racing clutch in it - for about 5k miles.
Drive the car 1st night easy - cruising for 20 miles. Drive on 2nd day for about 30 miles and put some pain down, high speed runs, etc. Notice the followiong after 30 miles, car at temp and it's about 85 degrees out:
1) it's hard to shift between "get into gear" while normal driving (much more than before new work was done) it goes but takes a lot of force;
2) when going into 1st gear, you can "feel" a clunk, it would do it as fast as you would go into gear - not letting out the clutch (new symptom);
3) excessive heat coming from under the center counsol and out of shift boot(new);
4) light squeel sound came back when clutch is out and car up to temp.
Shop is saying the TOB may be bad or the transmission syncros have an issue. Any help?
My biggest problem is the car didn't do it before the work and now it has these new symptoms. I get the impression the shop is trying to find something else as the cause -
Hey Guys,
This post has been a good read ... I wanted to share my issues(s). Had an increasing significant squeel noise when the clutch was out, only way to reduce or eliminate it was to drive the car with the clutch pressed in about 1-2". In 1 short trip it got bad so I just drove it home and to the shop the next day.
Bought the FRPP TOB and PB to be put in, already had the UPR Quad/FW adjuster installed.
Turns out the 5" long tube that the TOB rides on broke off of the bell housing (it's just pressed in there), Ford says no new part, you have to buy a whole new housing with the shaft in it for $490.00. So, new housing goes in plus the new TOB and PB. New fluid and that's it.
Have the Centerforce racing clutch in it - for about 5k miles.
Drive the car 1st night easy - cruising for 20 miles. Drive on 2nd day for about 30 miles and put some pain down, high speed runs, etc. Notice the followiong after 30 miles, car at temp and it's about 85 degrees out:
1) it's hard to shift between "get into gear" while normal driving (much more than before new work was done) it goes but takes a lot of force;
2) when going into 1st gear, you can "feel" a clunk, it would do it as fast as you would go into gear - not letting out the clutch (new symptom);
3) excessive heat coming from under the center counsol and out of shift boot(new);
4) light squeel sound came back when clutch is out and car up to temp.
Shop is saying the TOB may be bad or the transmission syncros have an issue. Any help?
My biggest problem is the car didn't do it before the work and now it has these new symptoms. I get the impression the shop is trying to find something else as the cause -
Sic, your clutch is not disengaging fully.
Adjust the cable untill the TOB is bout 1/16th from touching the fingers on the pressure plate.
Also you didn't have to buy that new part from Ford. You can get an upgraded replacement billet sleeve for 100$
Adjust the cable untill the TOB is bout 1/16th from touching the fingers on the pressure plate.
Also you didn't have to buy that new part from Ford. You can get an upgraded replacement billet sleeve for 100$
:-D Oh I hope that does it - I'll get this to my shop tomorrow. YAAAAA
8-8-11: they adjusted the cable and the car shifts so smooth - it's crazy. Still have the squeel/odd noise at idle with the clutch out - mechanic says its the TOB. May have this paper weight for sale soon.
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Did the OP, or any others with a similar noise, ever determine the cause? I'm having the same noise when letting out of the clutch in first gear. The previous owner said the car had a findaza flywheel and I think a spec clutch. The car also has a 26 spline input shaft and upgraded tob tube. The car shifts and drives great other than the sqealing taking off in first. It's almost like chatter, but rather than feeling it, it's audible. Thanks.
Interesting stuff here. I've had a loud metallic rattling noise for awhile now. Haven't really driven it, did make it to the shop they put it on the hoist. Weird thing is mine gets louder with the a/c on! There not sure it's the tob as it does it with clutch nearly out and also driving at slow speeds. Mine actually sound like it's by the flywheel/clutch area and gets loud! I've seen some threads where the actual rivets on the flywheel come out or creat the noise and also the stock clutch springs also have popped out rattling around in there. IDK, going through the whole thing next spring, saving funds.
Nope, the wife and I have learned to drive it so the noise isn't there every time.
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