I just had some mods done inc sbtb and a new tune. Having a stalling problem. only when pushing in the clutch at 2400 rpms or so and letting off the gas to coast to a stop. The motor falls on it face and dies. If I do the same thing at a lower rpm it is fine or down shift to a stop its also fine. I have cleaned out the iac and set tps sensor to .98 volt. The sbtb has a slight sticky spots at idle not sure if that could have something to do with it or the iac is bad or possibly the tune just needs a little tweek. Any body ever run into this problem?. Thanks sean
stalling problem when coasting to a stop
- Thread starter sean r
- Start date
bad TPS, IAC, or front O2's. datalog the O2 voltage, if its 1 or close to 1 then replace them.
Sounds likes its in the tune. Easy tweak in the area of the idle transfer I believe.
Thanks for the replys. The tuners shop is over 4 hours each way. I may try a new aic and tps and check the o2s before bring it back. He mentioned he could e mail me a tune to try instead of heading up. Also I just found a open vaccume line its coming out of the bottom of a valve behind the supercharger. Its not the egr valve but the valve under the egr valve (boost bypass valve?) coming off the bottom of the valve is about 6 inches of vaccume hose the ends near the drivers side fuel rail. Not sure if its just something that no longer gets hooked up with the whipple or if it should be ran to something.
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That would be a vacuum leak, it needs to be connected. Fix that first and re check it. Your tuner can email you tweaks to the tune and try to iron it out.
I just emailed a pic to the tuner. He said that line is supposed to be open to atmosphire?. I cant find where the end would go to. At the end of the vaccume hose is a plastic hose union and thats it just resting near drivers side fuel railnothing near it to hook to.
Can you post a pic on here?
The site wont let me post pics yet. If somone would be kind enough to shoot me there email and post it that would be very cool.
Thanks to silverstang04 I figured out what hose this is from the egr delete pics. It looks like it the hose that states from lower bbav to air intake. Not sure if it is ok to just be open like it is? or capped. There is no open place for it on my jlt rai that ive have noticed. Car still has the egr btw.
upload the picture to imgur: the simple image sharer and post the link to the picture here
Check under the RAI, the bottom side of the tube there should be a small nipple for that line.
I dont believe there should be any vacuum lines open.:dw: any time I have had a vacuum leak its lead to similiar issues like yours...stalling, bucking, ect....while its runnig spray some carb cleaner near that hose end..see if idle changes to confirm if for sure its an open air source to the engine.
That open line sounds like the connection to the atmosphere pressure side of the boost bypass actuator. The stock Eaton has it connected to a fresh air fitting on the left hand side of the air intake tube just ahead of the throttle body (it has a 3/8 fitting that is capped off and a 1/8 fitting that connects to the vacuum harness). There should be NO vacuum on that line at any time unless your bypass actuator is leaking internally. I'd hook that line back up to keep dirt out of the actuator anyway.
Yes i think that is the line I am talking about but i have the jlt rai and there are no open places left on it to plug in. There is a vac hose hooked to the rai next to the shock tower Im gonna go follow that maybe the shop forgot to reconnect When they did the blower inlet switch.
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I checked the rai. The one 1/8 nipple it has already has a vac line which switches into a small convoluted line and goes to the other side of the motor into the egr stuff next to the supercharger. So unlless I drilled out a hole in the rai theres not spot for for this open line. I dont think its a vac leak as nothing changes rpm wise when closing off the line at at idle.
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Checked and adjusted a a few things and the car no longer has the issue at all. Read a old post about sticky sb/tb fix and went followed the one turn in to the idle screw (I know the never touch that screw replys on some posts but figured I WOULD TRY AND TOOK NOTE OF WHERE IT WAS INCASE I NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK) Then re adjusted tps to .98 ( Had to file a slight bit inside the bolt holes). new plugs gapped @ .028 ( whoever did them last before i bought the car had them @ .038+. It actually idles a bit lower now @ 750rpms very smoth and no sticky spot in throttle peddle and no stalling at all when pushing in clutch to coast. I have a new iac on its way ill probably just put it on instead of sending it back. If you have a slight sticky spot on a sb/tb that fix did work great for me. Like mentioned if its sticking just slightly before closed it stops at slightly different spots every time and the computor gets thrown off/ and causes a lot of the issues. I did the return spring just for insurance that it closes against the set screw every time.
So the car is now running fine but just trying to figure out the vac line routing done on the car and something still stands out strange. The boost dump valves upper side port is the line that is routed to my air intake which I havnt seen on any threads even the hi boost routing thread from the other site. The boost bypass acuator bottom port is open to the atmosphere which seems to ok or could have went to the air intake port but it is already taken by the boost dump valve. I may have to call whipple or hopfully sombody really knows the correct routing for a hi boost 2.3 with egr intact. What a pain these lines are trying to figure out when you didnt build the car and stuff like this is found.
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have you changed a upper/lower pulley? when i first got mine it had a lower pulley and a stock alternator pulley and it was causing my car to do it until i changed the alt pulley.
Yes it has a 4lb lower but it has the correct 3.20 alt pulley. It is no longer stalling its running perfect. Its just I noticed the vac line routing does not look to be correct with the middle line off the boost dump solenoid going strait to the air intake and the bottom line off boost bypass valve going to open ambient air. from what ive seen in routing diagrams for whipples with hi boost is the middle line off the boost dump solinoid plugged and bottom of boost dump soliniod stays open or can go to air intake. It was tuned like that and runs good so I am just gonna leave it for now and bring the car up to paul a total induction solutions and have him check/correct the line and datalog the car and check and adjust the tune if needed.
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