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As I said in my post above, I'm looking at other car options in the mid 30K range. How can I be clearer than that?

I suppose since you're so hung up on your figure you've posted 3 or more times now (50K + 5K =) you won't get it. I've decided after running the numbers a 50K car is out of the question.

Thanks.
 

AAG

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Sell the Mustang private party and keep driving the Exploder until you pay it off. Why do you need a brand new one that's going to tank in resale value the moment you drive it off the lot?

That $637 you're not putting towards the Mustang, use it to pay off your current Explorer.
 
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sleek98

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Sell the Mustang private party and keep driving the Exploder until you pay it off. Why do you need a brand new one that's going to tank in resale value the moment you drive it off the lot?

That $637 you won't not putting towards the Mustang, use it to pay off your current Explorer.

I would do this. Sell the mustang and take the 637 + save insurance money and throw at the explorer until it is paid down far enough to get right side up by a few grand and then if you still want a newer sport in 3-4 months trade it in with no negative equity.

Do you have to trade it in to the dealer to get the tax credit on the new car? Or is IL like MO where you can apply a private sale of a car against another car purchased within 6 months?
 

ON D BIT

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Sorry I didn't do as you strongly suggested. Doesn't mean I won't follow advice, but, don't push your opinion too far on others on what they should do with their money.

Have a great day bro! :beer:

Actually you did do as I and other members were telling you as they learned how bad your loans were. We gave you a number of options all of them saying get a cheaper vehicle than the 50/60k vehicle you wanted. In the end you are now saying you will pick an explorer of half the cost from the one you originally wanted. The best part was you passing it off as your idea!:bash::lol:
 

Grabber

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Actually you did do as I and other members were telling you as they learned how bad your loans were. We gave you a number of options all of them saying get a cheaper vehicle than the 50/60k vehicle you wanted. In the end you are now saying you will pick an explorer of half the cost from the one you originally wanted. The best part was you passing it off as your idea!:bash::lol:

Where did I say Explorer for half the cost?

Learn to read.

I said other car options for mid 30's range instead.

Telling you, if you want to pick a fight and keep going, let's take this to PM.

Otherwise, what is the point in you trying to make it look like I'm the bad guy here by not listening or taking your advice, and when I do start to acknowledge certain things, you give me shit about it?
 

ON D BIT

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You stated a sport which can go mid 50's to one in the 30's. Damn close to half the cost, which is exactly what told you with the cert 13 sport for 35k. But as you say it's your idea because you are the smart one!
 

Grabber

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You stated a sport which can go mid 50's to one in the 30's. Damn close to half the cost, which is exactly what told you with the cert 13 sport for 35k. But as you say it's your idea because you are the smart one!

Really confused here.

Never once did I say I was looking at Explorer's for mid 30's. I was looking at new sports, and if I didn't mention this, I will pay low-mid 40's for a loaded sport using my wife's discount.

Since I started this thread, I've been looking at cars on my down time and talking things over with my wife. I'm currently looking at Durango R/T's with less than 10K miles for mid 30's.

Again, stop putting words in my mouth as I never stated it was my idea to look at cheaper cars or anything else for that matter. I simply pointed out I'm looking at other options for a certain price.

Done responding to you as you're now trying to lie about what I've said and make assumptions and insinuations regarding this.
 

Grabber

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Other car/suv/trucks options other than the explorer sport states it very clearly.

Exactly. Then you stated above that I'm now looking at Sports for half the cost and it was my idea.

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You stated a sport which can go mid 50's to one in the 30's. Damn close to half the cost, which is exactly what told you with the cert 13 sport for 35k. But as you say it's your idea because you are the smart one!

Again, putting words in my mouth since that is something I never stated.

I just took your advice and others and decided a 50K car with the negative equity I have is not a smart decision.
 

Buckwheat 1

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I have bought more than a hand full of cars.I can tell you that if you are taking two hours at the table you will spend more money than needed every time.No your number and walk away if you are not close in the first 1/2 hour.
 

Zemedici

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Jesus are you two gonna make out or what? This whole thread has been y'all bickering back and forth.

You know what you gotta do, OP. Just gotta stick with the plan. I did the same shit. Sold a paid off 04 350z for a 04 cobra, which I sold for a 2015 Mustang, which I sold for an 03 cobra. Lost all the equity I'd built up. So i'm staying in this one til its paid off.
 

Buckwheat 1

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Jesus are you two gonna make out or what? This whole thread has been y'all bickering back and forth.

You know what you gotta do, OP. Just gotta stick with the plan. I did the same shit. Sold a paid off 04 350z for a 04 cobra, which I sold for a 2015 Mustang, which I sold for an 03 cobra. Lost all the equity I'd built up. So i'm staying in this one til its paid off.

Sounds like a bad case of sports car ADD
 

lobra97

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When a Dealership takes on a car in a trade, they also take on several layers of cost and risk that have to be considered in the price that they offer. These cost include the finance carrying cost while the trade is in their inventory, the cost of cleaning the car up for sale, the cost of moving the car around to different locations and the risk of hidden mechanical damage that they may now be on the hook for. The average Customer walks into a Dealership with three request, spoken or not, these are, 1, sell me your car, 2, please buy my current car, 3, arrange financing to make all of this to happen. The life of a Car Dealer is not always an easy one.

I was slanging jeep, dodge, ram, chyslers earlier this yr



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Gary Macomber

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I agree with what someone else said, sell the mustang private party, if you get $28k for it, pay remaining out of pocket and keep the explorer and put extra money towards the loan until you are no longer negative. I wouldn't say put the entire mustang payment towards the explorer though, just pay the same amount you were paying for the mustang towards the explorer and bank the extra $300. Do this for a year and you will have no negative equity and a few grand in the bank that you can use for a down payment if you so choose.

When I bought my Passat I had a mustang that the dealer was gonna give me almost nothing for, sold it for $4k in 2 days and put $9k towards my Passat, even with the diesel scandal I would still not have negative equity if I decided to trade it in for current value. I haven't decided if I will go for the buyback and get a new car when the deal goes through but if I do I will take whatever money they give me + the previous value trade and put all of that towards the new car, I don't believe in negative equity, especially rolling it over into another loan, it only leads to disaster.
 

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