Suspension questions - LCA brackets/PHR & lowering springs

[Coz]

The GT500 mounts match to pre 2011 struts. I don't believe there is any issue with any S197 spring. If you bought the Koni's for a 2014 you can't use the GT500 mounts.

By the way, there are two different Steeda HD mounts. If you get them make sure you order the right set.

You can try reusing your front mounts but that would require double installation time and effort if you subsequently upgraded the mounts. You would also require an extra alignment.

If you do reuse the originals, be very careful when dissembling the strut/spring assembly. Beyond the safety issue of a compressed spring, the OEM strut mounts can come apart if you are not careful. Then you have little ball bearings all over the place.

CC plates will give you more adjustability but may transmit more NVH. The Steeda mounts incorporate a polyurethane bushing that isolates much of that. By the way, you must use the bottom half of the OEM strut mounts (pry them apart if they aren't already) and use them with Steeda Mounts.

 

[matt5058]

The GT500 mounts match to pre 2011 struts. I don't believe there is any issue with any S197 spring. If you bought the Koni's for a 2014 you can't use the GT500 mounts.

By the way, there are two different Steeda HD mounts. If you get them make sure you order the right set.

You can try reusing your front mounts but that would require double installation time and effort if you subsequently upgraded the mounts. You would also require an extra alignment.

If you do reuse the originals, be very careful when dissembling the strut/spring assembly. Beyond the safety issue of a compressed spring, the OEM strut mounts can come apart if you are not careful. Then you have little ball bearings all over the place.

CC plates will give you more adjustability but may transmit more NVH. The Steeda mounts incorporate a polyurethane bushing that isolates much of that. By the way, you must use the bottom half of the OEM strut mounts (pry them apart if they aren't already) and use them with Steeda Mounts.

At the risk of sounding dumb, how do I know which ones are the right set? I'm on the Steeda website and it looks like there are the HD ones and Competition ones, both for 11-14 Mustangs.

Thanks for the warning on re-using the originals. What are the alternatives to getting the Steeda HD mounts since the GT500 ones won't work with my Konis? Could one also just get OEM replacements or are there any other heavier duty strut mounts available for the 11-14? When I'm looking at CC plates and the HD mounts, they look somewhat similar. Would I re-use the bottom half of OEM strut mounts when installing CC plates or is that just with the Steeda mounts?

I think I'd prefer to go with the Steedas to reduce NVH but still have a little bit of flexibility.

 

[Coz]

The correct mounts for 11-14 are:

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-upper-strut-mounts-555-8135.html

The ones for the older 05-10 or any year GT500s are:
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-upper-strut-mounts-555-8120.html

I am not aware of any other HD mounts that are not full blown caster camber plates.

I am not sure if all CC plates use the bottom half of the OEM mount (also known as the upper spring isolator). The Maximum Motorsports ones require it's reuse but I think others may not.

I don't recall how many miles you have on your car. If not too many you may be ok using your stock ones but it also depends on how aggressively you will be driving, condition of roads, and if you intend to take it on road courses alot.

If you will be doing autocross or road courses and if you are also lowering your car, you may not be able to get within oem recommended camber settings without a mount/plate that provides camber adjustment or you will need camber bolts. Camber bolts will most likely get you within stock specs and will be fine if you are just driving on the street. However, if you will going on s road course, they will probably not get you to more aggressive settings such as -1.5 and certainly not -2 or more. Just as important, the camber bolts are thinner since they are made with an eccentric profile to allow for adjustment. Therefore they are not as beefy and I would have less faith in them on a road course.

 

[matt5058]

The correct mounts for 11-14 are:

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-upper-strut-mounts-555-8135.html

The ones for the older 05-10 or any year GT500s are:
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-upper-strut-mounts-555-8120.html

I am not aware of any other HD mounts that are not full blown caster camber plates.

I am not sure if all CC plates use the bottom half of the OEM mount (also known as the upper spring isolator). The Maximum Motorsports ones require it's reuse but I think others may not.

I don't recall how many miles you have on your car. If not too many you may be ok using your stock ones but it also depends on how aggressively you will be driving, condition of roads, and if you intend to take it on road courses alot.

If you will be doing autocross or road courses and if you are also lowering your car, you may not be able to get within oem recommended camber settings without a mount/plate that provides camber adjustment or you will need camber bolts. Camber bolts will most likely get you within stock specs and will be fine if you are just driving on the street. However, if you will going on s road course, they will probably not get you to more aggressive settings such as -1.5 and certainly not -2 or more. Just as important, the camber bolts are thinner since they are made with an eccentric profile to allow for adjustment. Therefore they are not as beefy and I would have less faith in them on a road course.

Thanks again man. I've got about 35k on the car. I haven't done any road racing but have done some autocross and plan to do more + hit the drag strip a bit this year. I'd love to try road racing but I'm a little terrified of the risk of crashing or someone crashing into me. Ideally at some point I'll pick up an older/cheaper car to use to get started in road racing.

So you think the camber adjustment capability of the Steeda HD amounts is enough to stay within OEM recommended camber settings?

 

[Coz]

The will definitely get you within the OEM specs for camber.

Just make sure when you take it somewhere for alignment that you have them or they may install camber bolts.

I ran into this actual problem with a garage that had a reputation for working on muscle cars, etc. I installed my new springs/struts/mounts myself, with brand new strut bolts, and took it there for an alignment.

I told the guy at the counter the specs I wanted (-1.6 and 0 toe). I was waiting for the car and while doing so I hear a lot more impact wrench noise than I thought was necessary. And I didn't see the hood up. But I didn't want to be "that guy" that tells professionals how to do their job. More noise... I finally get up and ask the counter guy why all the wrenching and he just tells me he knows what he's doing. I specifically ask him if he told the guy about the plates. He said "yes". About 15 minutes later he tells me it's done but they had to put camber bolts in it to get to my specs!!!!!

I had to stop myself from freaking out. The counter guy didn't tell the mechanic and the mechanic had such tunnel vision that he didn't look up to see the plate. I made them take out the camber bolts, put my strut bolts back in and align it with the plates. I should have made them replace my bolts since technically they are one time use.

 

[matt5058]

Good to know about your experience. At this point my plan is to put on the rear shocks and springs this weekend and see how it feels in terms of ride height/stiffness and see if the additions help with wheel hop at all. I can probably pick up the strut mounts in mid May and see about getting those installed with the struts and front springs, then get an alignment.

 

[matt5058]

Like COZ said, keep in mind you can't do springs with stock struts/shocks.
Camber plates are not mandatory, but will help in the long run. I just started to run camber plates when i switched to a full damper kit.

Always check your alignment when you install new suspension parts.
Also, if you lower the vehicle, I recommend adding a PH bar to square out the rear end.

Quoting this past post from the thread to ask about caster/camber plates. I got my rear springs/shocks installed and the ride height seems fine. I'm going to do the fronts soon, possibly this coming weekend but I want to go ahead and do strut mounts or caster/camber plates. I've been looking at the maximum motorsports CC plates on AM, as well as the Steeda HD Strut mounts. I spoke to someone at Steeda today who said that the HD strut mounts would work fine with the Koni struts and I wouldn't need to do anything else, and it will re-use the bottom of the stock mount.

On the AM site for the CC plates though (in the installation instructions), it has this:

NOTE: We highly recommend replacing the strut-tospindle mounting hardware while installing this kit. Ford considers this hardware to be one-time use only. The new OEM hardware can be purchased from your local Ford dealer or Maximum Motorsports (part# MMF-3). Four (4) bolts W714652 S439 and four (4) nuts W714653 S900 are required.

This has me wondering if I'd need to do the same thing if I decided to go with the Steeda HD mounts as well. I'd really prefer to do the install myself but I don't want to start taking things apart without having all the right parts first. Any thoughts. Chris, did you replace all the hardware when you did CC plates? Any thoughts?

 

[Coz]

I did replace my spindle to strut hardware with new ones. This practice is independent of the type of strut mount or strut.

However, as my story about my experience with the alignment shop indicates, they reused my hardware when I made them remove the caster-camber bolts they mistakenly installed.

I should replace them again.

You will love the Steeda HD mounts. They are a work of art. it's a shame they are hidden from view once installed.

It is always good to have a helping set of hands when you start tightening up on your spring compression tool.

Also, recommend you use an impact wrench to tighten down the on the top strut mount nut. Trying to hold the shaft from turning while trying to tighten the nut with a box wrench is an excercise in futility.

Here is some info:

Strut and Shock Mount TOP NUT TIGHTENING - Vorshlag Motorsports Forum


Make sure you use the correct nut. I think you use the ones that come with the Koni struts (or whatever struts you use). The nuts with the Steeda mount may be for OEM struts or another brand/type.

 

[Sean@LethalPerformance]

I would opt for camber plates over the ford racing strut mounts as the camber plates will allow you to dial in your camber how you want. We can set you up with Maximum Motorsports or J&M here at Lethal Performance, im pretty sure they both re-use the stock spring isolators. Just PM me for pricing if your interested.

I replaced the spring isolators when I changed out my front springs and did Koni yellows struts. If theres a few miles on them, it wouldn't be a bad move to get new ones if they have more than a few miles one them.

 

[matt5058]

I did replace my spindle to strut hardware with new ones. This practice is independent of the type of strut mount or strut.

However, as my story about my experience with the alignment shop indicates, they reused my hardware when I made them remove the caster-camber bolts they mistakenly installed.

I should replace them again.

You will love the Steeda HD mounts. They are a work of art. it's a shame they are hidden from view once installed.

It is always good to have a helping set of hands when you start tightening up on your spring compression tool.

Also, recommend you use an impact wrench to tighten down the on the top strut mount nut. Trying to hold the shaft from turning while trying to tighten the nut with a box wrench is an excercise in futility.

Here is some info:

Strut and Shock Mount TOP NUT TIGHTENING - Vorshlag Motorsports Forum


Make sure you use the correct nut. I think you use the ones that come with the Koni struts (or whatever struts you use). The nuts with the Steeda mount may be for OEM struts or another brand/type.

Thanks for the link and the advice. I should have someone able to help when I eventually have time to do the install. I really wish there was a hobby shop around here with a lift.

I just had to spend money I wasn't expecting to so I need to wait a little bit longer before picking up the strut mounts. Still hoping to order them before the end of the month and install them in June if I can find a free weekend.

As far as replacing the spindle to strut hardware, is this the only additional thing I need to pick up to install the strut mounts + front struts and springs?
Strut to spindle mounting hardware kit, 2005-2014 Mustang

Thanks again. This thread has been a life saver.

 

[chris_302]

I would recommend MM CC plates. Most high end dampers(JRi, JRZ, MCS, etc) are paired with MM CC plates.
Replacing the hardware is a good idea considering you are upgrading the front and to stay withing OEM specs.

Here is a picture of my JRI shock paired with MM CC's plates.

 

[Coz]

If you will not be disassembling your current strut assembly when you remove it you may need some additional low cost components. You would disassemble to reuse the bottom portion of the strut mount, the jounce bumper (if new ones didn't come with your SR springs) the strut boot, and the spring sleeve.

The spring sleeve is 6R3Z-5L302-A.

I don't think that for the 13-14 that Ford sells a replacement boot. With lowering springs it may be too long anyway and the bellows will be almost fully compressed when sitting. I would recommend the KYB SB111 strut boot. Don't use the jounce bumper that comes with it. I would also recommend the Ford Performance Jounce Bumper kit M-5570-A.

 

[matt5058]

If you will not be disassembling your current strut assembly when you remove it you may need some additional low cost components. You would disassemble to reuse the bottom portion of the strut mount, the jounce bumper (if new ones didn't come with your SR springs) the strut boot, and the spring sleeve.

The spring sleeve is 6R3Z-5L302-A.

I don't think that for the 13-14 that Ford sells a replacement boot. With lowering springs it may be too long anyway and the bellows will be almost fully compressed when sitting. I would recommend the KYB SB111 strut boot. Don't use the jounce bumper that comes with it. I would also recommend the Ford Performance Jounce Bumper kit M-5570-A.

Now I feel dumb again. I had to look up the jounce bumper. I bought the springs second-hand so all I got was the springs themselves.

In what situation would I not need to disassemble the strut assembly? I was under the impression that whether I do CC plates or the Steeda HD Strut mounts, I'd need to re-use the bottom portion of the strut mount. Is there a full on replacement for the strut mount that wouldn't require assembly?

 

[Coz]

Yes, you'll need to disassemble unless you decide to buy new OEM strut mounts. I did that but it is a bit of a waste since you will promptly split them apart.

I did it for two reasons:

1. A friend let me use his lift and II didn't want to waste time disassembling the existing struts and spend time putting the new assembly together. That may have resulting in hogging up his lift overnight.

I assembled all the new components together ahead of time. At his garage it was a relatively quick remove & replace procedure.

2. If I ever sell it, I can either reinstall the originals or offer them as part the package.

 

[matt5058]

I hadn't thought about assembling everything in advance but it makes sense if one has replacement strut mounts. I don't have my own garage to work in at the moment so I've been using my old man's, which unfortunately is a 2 hour drive. I feel like the whole assembling in advance option might make more sense for me just to save having my car stuck in his garage for a day or two, noting there will likely be delays while I'm doing the work myself.

How much did the new OEM strut mounts set you back? A quick search on the Google machine and it looks like replacements are between 39-43 a pop, from LMR and partsgeek. Does that sound about right?

So if I'm understanding your last few posts correctly, it seems like I have a couple of options. I can either:

A. Buy OEM strut mount replacements in addition to the Steeda HD strut mounts (or CC plates), disassemble OEM piece and pair with HD mount, re-assemble, then install

B. Buy Steeda HD strut mounts or CC plates, assemble using factory strut while doing full install

If I go with option A, it would be ideal to replace:
-strut to spindle mounting hardware

and if I go with option B, it would be ideal to replace:
-strut to spindle mounting hardware
-jounce bumper
-strut boot
-spring sleeve

Either way, I should remember to use nut that comes with the Koni strut, as the nut with the Steeda mounts might be meant for OEM struts.

Let me know if I missed anything and thanks again time a million.

I can't lie and say that I am tempted to just call up JPC and schedule an appointment for them to do the install but now that I've been invested all this time asking questions and digging around, I feel like I should just stick with the plan and to the install myself.

 

[Coz]

I would replace the Jounce bumpers in either case since the lowered stance may result in the struts compressing all the way in front or your axle bumpers hitting the frame in the back. The Ford Performance bumpers are softer to absorb the energy instead of a harder impact that could upset your suspension and therefore grip.

The spring sleeves are pretty delicate. One of the new ones even split while I was installing it on the new spring. I then wrapped it with self-fusing silicone tape. The brand I used is called Rescue Tape. That stuff is awesome and has 101 other uses.

 

[Coz]

Tasca Parts has the strut mounts for $35
Upper Mount - Ford (BR3Z-18183-D) | TascaParts

 

[matt5058]

So just to update, I actually ended up ordering the J&M caster camber plates. AM had a sale and with the SVTP discount, it ended up being $216. I received them today and my initial impression is the quality is pretty solid. Also, they come with the whole strut mount assembly, no need to re-use any of the stock parts.

I checked my Roush springs and they have sleeves so my plan is to order the jounce bumper kit and strut to spindle hardware, then assemble everything and hopefully install on a lift I might be able to access in a couple of weeks.

Also, I wanted to get strut boots to work with the new setup. Coz, you had mentioned the KYB SB111 strut boot. From a quick search, it looks like that is something meant for some other car types (Lexus, Toyota, Scion) but not the 2014 Mustang. I'm assuming this is just a universal part that you know happens to work with a lowered Mustang? Correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks.

 

[Coz]

Yes, it is designed for an import. You will not use the bumper that comes with it, you will use the Ford bumper. The boot will have a ridge on the inside near the top that will snap into the ridge on the bumper.

It will look different than the stock setup where the bumper is totally covered by the boot.

 

[Coz]

These instructions will show the exact KYB boot on the second page, bottom left.