Suspension Tech: Bring It!
- Thread starter BMR Tech
- Start date
Improved on my 1/8th time from 6.64 at 108 to a PB of 6.44 at 110 mph also knocked .14 off my 60'. Went from 1.58 to 1.44. Need an ARB and some more fine tuning.
Thanks for the recommendations.
Results! Love seeing RESULTS! Gotta be happy with those improvements my friend. Keep up the GREAT work!
PS: You need to grab an ARB.
Results! Love seeing RESULTS! Gotta be happy with those improvements my friend. Keep up the GREAT work!
PS: You need to grab an ARB.
Thanks, Kelly! Always love improvement and know an ARB will really help me out! Will be ordering soon.
OK I got a question...And I'd like the BMR part(s) that will solve this issue I'm having please...I just bought the car 2012 Boss 302 with 24k miles. I threw some (other brand) springs out back with same brand adjustable PH bar. All is great and car rides beautiful and handles great and stance is perfect like I wanted. Now to the issue...Keep in mind the only suspension mods on my '12 Boss are what I just mentioned so everything else is stock...
Doing a WOT 3rd to 4th gear pull (higher mph) and then letting off the car gets a bit floaty/drifty? and I have to muscle the wheel to keep it straight...Now the car is perfectly aligned tracks straight, no moans, groans or any other issues and drives perfect...The only issue I've seen is what I just mentioned...Will LCA's/UCA fix this? Will it be a combo of LCA's/UCA and possibly upgraded front LCA? I appreciate any help! Thank you
Doing a WOT 3rd to 4th gear pull (higher mph) and then letting off the car gets a bit floaty/drifty? and I have to muscle the wheel to keep it straight...Now the car is perfectly aligned tracks straight, no moans, groans or any other issues and drives perfect...The only issue I've seen is what I just mentioned...Will LCA's/UCA fix this? Will it be a combo of LCA's/UCA and possibly upgraded front LCA? I appreciate any help! Thank you
Hey thanks a lot for the quick response BMR People...I'll be sure to buy BMR parts...Not.:xpl:
Perhaps if you need immediate help you should call them instead of posting on a third-party forum? Just maaaybe might kind of make a little bit of sense.
But by all means feel free select an inferior product because they didn't get to your third party forum post in less than 24 hours
To answer your question, you should not need to muscle the wheel to keep it straight in a straight line while coasting. If that is happening something isn't right and I wouldn't throw upgrades at it until you figure out the source of the issue.
Perhaps if you need immediate help you should call them instead of posting on a third-party forum? Just maaaybe might kind of make a little bit of sense.
But by all means feel free select an inferior product because they didn't get to your third party forum post in less than 24 hours
To answer your question, you should not need to muscle the wheel to keep it straight in a straight line while coasting. If that is happening something isn't right and I wouldn't throw upgrades at it until you figure out the source of the issue.
Nice try guy but I don't need "immediate" response and never requested that. I figure on as busy a forum as this is with a thread STARTED by a BMR person they'd be more responsive. The oh this is a 3rd party forum excuse doesn't cut it. If I used that excuse in my business I wouldn't have a business. But thanks for chiming in. And I've run several BMR products on my 3 newer Mustangs so it's not like I haven't been a customer either. Anyways, hopefully someone can help out from BMR with a productive response to my question above.
BMR Tech 2
Active Member
I think you will probably want to go back over the installation and make sure everything is tight. Just dropping the car should not make it feel floaty, drifty, or make it difficult to steer at higher speeds. If there is something loose, it could be allowing a wheel or both wheels to wander.
I'm sorry that our response here was not timely enough for you. Things can get pretty busy over here and we don't always have time to hit every thread on the forums. If you need to get a hold of us quickly, it's best to contact us directly through email or give us a call.
I did give you a productive response. The issue you are describing doesn't have anything to do with control arms, unless you are describing it incorrectly or your existing control arms are damaged. Something else is messed up, whether it be incorrect installation or another damaged part. Which is basically what BMR said just above this post as well :rollseyes
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Thanks for the response...I had a similar occurrence prior to installing my springs/PH bar...I think it might be worn balljoints up front and/or issues with endlinks/steering linkage. But the more I drive it the more I think it's my head messing with me and I could just be paranoid. I'll have to keep troubleshooting. At any rate, thanks again for the timely response.
Hey Kelly/Dylan,
I have 5.0 with VMP stage 3 about 660+RWHP, 3.15 AUTO and i would like to improve my traction with more suspension modes such as shocks.
I heard that viking shocks are highly recommended but i'm pretty confused with all the models. In addition, would like to get any other recommendation for suspension that might help - maybe struts?
my car is a street and daily driven and i don't go to tracks , just talking about street traction.
This is my current suspension setup:
BMR UCA Adj w/ Mount, BMR LCA, BMR Relocation Brackets and BMR Adj Panhard Bar, SVE Sway-Bar Relocation Brackets, Eibach Pro-kit springs
I have 2 sets of tires:
MT ET SS 295/55/15 and NT05R 315/35/20
Thanks!
I have 5.0 with VMP stage 3 about 660+RWHP, 3.15 AUTO and i would like to improve my traction with more suspension modes such as shocks.
I heard that viking shocks are highly recommended but i'm pretty confused with all the models. In addition, would like to get any other recommendation for suspension that might help - maybe struts?
my car is a street and daily driven and i don't go to tracks , just talking about street traction.
This is my current suspension setup:
BMR UCA Adj w/ Mount, BMR LCA, BMR Relocation Brackets and BMR Adj Panhard Bar, SVE Sway-Bar Relocation Brackets, Eibach Pro-kit springs
I have 2 sets of tires:
MT ET SS 295/55/15 and NT05R 315/35/20
Thanks!
BMR Tech 2
Active Member
They may help a little bit, but trying to get traction on the street is going to be a mix of tune, tires, and suspension. There is only so much that you can do to get traction on an unprepped surface. You will probably end up having to run the Vikings similar to stock compression and rebound settings, and I'm not really sure that the investment would be worthwhile for you since you don't ever hit the track. If you decide to go with Vikings, at your power level the Warriors would be a good choice for you.
Would ya look at this! How important is an ARB? Check out Andy Howards car before and after.
Before is with 600hp....and after is with over 1,000 - which should show you how much improvement the BMR ARB makes.
(1.4 sixty VS 1.2 sixty - Full BMR with Poly Bushings on both)
Before is with 600hp....and after is with over 1,000 - which should show you how much improvement the BMR ARB makes.
(1.4 sixty VS 1.2 sixty - Full BMR with Poly Bushings on both)
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Rear end feels like it's sliding left to right between shifts, letting out in gear, or down shifting. Also the advancedtrac now kicks in when down shifting. Have UPR upper and lower control arms, BMR brackets, Panhard and upgraded diff bushing.
I'm about to order the upgraded sway bar kit from BMR to remove the rubber bushings.
What the heck could be causing this?
I'm about to order the upgraded sway bar kit from BMR to remove the rubber bushings.
What the heck could be causing this?
I am at the same place you are with my 2013 Boss, having replaced the rear springs, Panhard, and brace but not the front springs yet. The front springs from Steeda are really matched to the rears, with both being a heavier rate. I noticed when letting off the throttle the other day on my test drive, and while using Trackey that same floaty feeling. Trackey increases engine braking and I could feel the imbalance with the nose dropping and the back tires feeling slightly unloaded, where with the stock rear springs the car would settle a little more in the back as well when I let off the throttle. I would recommend installing the front Steeda 302 springs to increase the rate and play around with the shock settings before adding anymore parts to the equation, as that is exactly what Frank from Steeda advised me to do. I wish I had the time to go ahead and get mine installed so I could let you know for sure, but it makes sense based on my past experience that we are dealing with a spring/shock setting imbalance at this point in our mods. I hope this helps , FivePointOMG.
This could be possible, since I am still running on stock shocks with H&R sport springs.
BMR Tech 2
Active Member
I would check all your bolts and bushings on the LCAs and UCA. Do you have the axle weight bolts installed on the relocation brackets?
Yes, I have the bolts installed on the brackets. I will take the LCA and UCA out and check them.
Instead of continually bugging my friends I will ask here.
I have a 2014 stage 3 Roush. I am not going to change the springs or shocks but will be ordering LCAs. My question is, should I get relocation brackets since the Roush springs are only a half inch drop and will I need to change out the Roush uca to an adjustable BMR uca if I do get relocation brackets?
I have a 2014 stage 3 Roush. I am not going to change the springs or shocks but will be ordering LCAs. My question is, should I get relocation brackets since the Roush springs are only a half inch drop and will I need to change out the Roush uca to an adjustable BMR uca if I do get relocation brackets?
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