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Suspension Tech: Bring It!

Discussion in 'Driveline/Suspension' started by BMR Tech, Dec 31, 2013.

  1. noldevin

    noldevin Active Member Established Member

    Messages:
    720
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    Sep 7, 2014
    Location:
    New Jersey
    I've been running this setup but with the handling springs. I have been happy with everything up until making the switch to 285/35 RE11 tires. Now the shocks aren't up to the task (nor are they designed to be).

    I would definitely recommend going with the shortened Bilstein shocks designed for lowering springs over the koni yellows. I'm having to run the yellows quite stiff now to keep up with the tires, and it's a bit harsh.

    Everything else has been performing great
     
  2. Chuckieduck

    Chuckieduck Member Established Member

    Messages:
    84
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2008
    Location:
    San Diego, Ca
    I am currently running Eibach Pro-Kit springs as they were already on the car. I ran Steeda springs with their Pro Action shocks on my last Mustang and I like the Eibach's ride a little better except for the rebound of the stock dampers. I am getting ready to pull the trigger on new dampers (probably yellow Konis) and I'm wondering if I should go ahead and upgrade springs and if the SP065 springs are better. I want to also upgrade my sway bars at the same time. My car is a garage queen and is rarely driven but I do want to take it to a couple road courses.

    Currently in my garage waiting to install:
    -Cortex Watts Link
    -Cortex Torque Arm (Haven't decided on installing torque arm or not)
    -BMR K-Member with Tubular arms
    -Maimmum Motorsports LCA brackets
    -Steeda Caster/Camber plates
    -Steeda X-Brace
    -20x10 and widened 20x11.5 TSW Nuburgring wheels with 285 and 315 R-888s (I know this will effect sway bar selection)

    Future plans
    -FI when taxes come back this winter
    -Rear LCA (Need to buy)
    -New clutch since I'm still getting lock-out with Steeda shifter and spring removed
    New shifter (was thinking MGW Race SPEC until I saw Barton's new shifter) because I don't really like the Steeda shifter
    -One piece drive shaft

    I also have BMR subframe connectors installed. Would the SP065s with yellow Konis be a good choice or stick with my Eibach and upgrade dampers only.
     
  3. matt5058

    matt5058 Member Established Member

    Messages:
    236
    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2014
    Location:
    DC
    Months later than I originally planned, I'll be picking up LCA's. Also, wanted to ask about the upper control arm. Based on what you suggested about the spherical bearings for the LCA's, I assume it's the same for an upper control arm? For a car that's driven mostly on the street but sees a fair amount of autocross, does UTCA018 with the spherical bearings make the most sense (combined with the TCA022 LCA's)? Thanks.

    Edit: Just realized the UTCA018 is for 05-10 Stangs. Suggestions on a UCA?
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2017
  4. BMR Tech 2

    BMR Tech 2 Authorized Vendor Authorized Vendor

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    Sep 3, 2015
    Location:
    Tampa, FL
    I would do the bearing UCA UTCA033 or UTCA038 and pair it with an EN001 upper diff bushing. That should help cut down on some of the noise that you typically see with a bearing UCA. You will still hear some extra gear noise when you ditch the stock upper.
     
  5. bunits19714

    bunits19714 Active Member Established Member

    Messages:
    474
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    Mar 27, 2015
    Location:
    monroe mi
    I currently am running a brand S adj upper with a pivotol spherical bearing for my upper control arm- I CURRENTLY am running the stock upper mount and was looking to UPGRADE to the BMR mount- is the BMR mount going to be compatible with a different brand that currently uses the stock mount and bolt size? also looking to upgrade to a better rear housing bushing as well? If the bmr mount is comp. what location do you suggest with abut a 1.25" dropped rear(bmr#12 springs)(factory shocks still)
     
  6. BMR Tech 2

    BMR Tech 2 Authorized Vendor Authorized Vendor

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    Sep 3, 2015
    Location:
    Tampa, FL
    Since the arm fits with a stock mount, it should work with our mount. I would use the top hole on a lowered car. We do have a poly diff bushing available, part number EN001.
     
  7. nyuk98GT

    nyuk98GT Member Premium Member Established Member

    Messages:
    138
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2014
    Location:
    Chesterfield, MO
    Dylan/Kelly (Dylly?),

    Working in stages on improving suspension and I have what I think is a standard/oft-asked question although I couldn't find it in this great thread! My car has BMR LCA's, FR adjustable say bar, P springs (1" drop) so what should be done next: UCA or LCA relocation brackets? Car is not taken to the drag strip or auto-x, just putts along to and from work or a Sunday outing. There is a little wheel hop on an aggressive start but it is much less than with the stock LCA's.

    Thanks very much in advance for taking the time to read through and answer.

    edit
    Post 148 seems to answer my question but I'm looking for a little confirmation.
    Thanks.

    end of edit

    Chris
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2017
  8. BMR Tech 2

    BMR Tech 2 Authorized Vendor Authorized Vendor

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    Sep 3, 2015
    Location:
    Tampa, FL
    First I'd like to introduce myself, I'm Parker and I am the new S197 Tech working along side Kelly (BMR Tech).

    Honestly the UCA is the end all be all BUT, I personally did LCA Relocation brackets prior to my UCA and it resolved ALL of my wheel hop.

    I cannot attest to it resolving yours as equally because all setups vary slightly, however you won't be disappointed with either choice.

    Considering you're keeping her a street driven car I'd recommend our UTCA032 and UCM002 if you're going to snag the UCA/Mount (I recommend doing BOTH at the same time, the stock UCA mount is less than ideal when being used with an aftermarket UCA). This will keep NVH down (Being poly bushing) but still provide you with all the adjustment and strength that you've come to expect from us.

    Our CAB005 will help to solve any wheel-hop that you experience and allow you to more properly adjust the setup, I recommend trying this route first due to it being cheaper, and if it doesn't fully fix the issue than the solution listed above will.

    If you've got any further issues feel free to shoot me a PM!
     
    nyuk98GT likes this.
  9. nyuk98GT

    nyuk98GT Member Premium Member Established Member

    Messages:
    138
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2014
    Location:
    Chesterfield, MO
    Thanks, Parker!

    Brackets will be delivered today (I hope) and I should have them on the car this weekend.

    I have been ogling the BMR UCA and mount and they're in my Wish List folder. Only a matter of time...

    Thanks for the reply. Welcome to this forum and I look forward to hearing more about suspension from you in this thread.

    Chris
     
  10. BMR Tech 2

    BMR Tech 2 Authorized Vendor Authorized Vendor

    Messages:
    469
    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2015
    Location:
    Tampa, FL
    No problem at all!

    Any questions about ordering the UCA/Mount just shoot them my way and I'll hook you up with a discount/any information you need!

    Let us know how the Brackets work out for you! I'd recommend trying the middle setting first, and if she still has a little bit of hop on the squat move it down to the lower setting.
     
  11. nyuk98GT

    nyuk98GT Member Premium Member Established Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2014
    Location:
    Chesterfield, MO
    Howdy Parker,

    Thanks in advance for the (future) discount code - the missus likes to hear how much I am saving when buying parts, lol. And, for sure, I'll post up my results of a relocation bracket test. I'll see how many neighbs are up early on Sunday morning....

    Thanks again.

    Chris
     
  12. nyuk98GT

    nyuk98GT Member Premium Member Established Member

    Messages:
    138
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2014
    Location:
    Chesterfield, MO
    Update: Brackets are in (hurray) but road testing is needed (tomorrow). Installation took longer than expected (I'm tortoise-slow at wrenching) and there was yard work to do.

    I had a an issue with the spacer: the axle weight bolt was too fat! I used a round file and Dremel to open up the ID of the spacer. Has anybody reported problems with the spacer fitting the a/w bolt?

    Otherwise, the installation process (garage floor/Race Ramps, no air tools) went very smoothly. Torquing the bolts is a little difficult from the garage floor - there's not much room to get leverage but it can be done. The instructions are great - very thorough and include all the torque values. The brackets are stout and the (hammertone) finish is nice. The LCAs are in the middle hole (as recommended by Parker ) for the road test. :)

    Road test results to follow.

    Chris
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2017
  13. BMR Tech 2

    BMR Tech 2 Authorized Vendor Authorized Vendor

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    Sep 3, 2015
    Location:
    Tampa, FL
    I actually haven't heard of anyone else having issues with the spacer.

    Did you happen to take any pictures during installation? I'd be curious to see them.

    I'm glad it went painless for you otherwise, keep us updated on the road testing!
     
  14. nyuk98GT

    nyuk98GT Member Premium Member Established Member

    Messages:
    138
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2014
    Location:
    Chesterfield, MO
    Parker,

    Thanks for the quick reply. No pics taken during the installation. Just my luck to be the only soul with a spacer issue, lol.

    The axle wt. bolt looks to be the same diameter and has the same threads as the OEM LCA bolts (on my car anyway). The shank of the bolt narrows a little past the threads and then gets a little fatter nearer the bolt head. The spacer needed to be opened <1/16" (guesstimated) to make things fit.

    Chris
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2017
  15. nyuk98GT

    nyuk98GT Member Premium Member Established Member

    Messages:
    138
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2014
    Location:
    Chesterfield, MO
    Without further ado, here are the road test results: no wheel hop and very little wheel spin. AdvanceTrac was in Sport mode. Much improved conditions with the relocation brackets. Thanks, BMR (and AM where I got 'em). Subjectively, the rear end feels tighter/more solid in normal driving but I might be imagining that.

    In hindsight, I should have installed these when I put the LCA's in but I figured the P springs provide such a modest drop that brackets would not be required. Wrong! Even with a 1" drop, the LCA's slanted down from the axle forward and that made things not quite right. Much, much better now.

    Chris
     
  16. BMR Tech 2

    BMR Tech 2 Authorized Vendor Authorized Vendor

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2015
    Location:
    Tampa, FL

    Glad you're happy Chris!

    I did my RLB at the same time as my LCA and I agree it makes a whole world of difference when the two are combined!

    Ever need anything else just shoot me a message!
     
    nyuk98GT likes this.
  17. Tonyjp

    Tonyjp New Member Established Member

    Messages:
    21
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2015
    Location:
    Colorado
    Recommendations for a nice street/strip setup for a 2013 Shelby GT350. Car has an auto swap. Current suspension from Shelby is FRPP with adjustable shocks and struts. Thanks
     
  18. Gruca

    Gruca Active Member Established Member

    Messages:
    503
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Location:
    Peotone IL
    I did the same thing. I lowered the car without the relo brackets and my LCAs were going up from the front to back. Put the relos in, fixed the angle, went to the track with a full rear BMR setup, some koni oranges, and Steeda springs, and was getting low 1.5 60fts. I know I can improve that too since I'm an M6 and I was just dumping it from around 6k. The car hooked great though.
     
  19. 2013grabbergt

    2013grabbergt New Member Established Member

    Messages:
    14
    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2017
    Alright, so I need help with my 60' at the strip. Car is a '13 GT (MT-82, 3.73, CJ setup car). I run 28x10.50-15 ET Drags on a big and little setup. Tire pressure at 15 PSI. I have a BMR Upper Control Arm Mount (think it's upper hole), Adj. Upper (-2.5 pinion angle), Poly urethane boxed LCA's with relocation brackets (middle hole), Panhard bar and support, tubular k member, front sway bar delete, drag springs in the rear and gt500 handling springs in the front, Viking DA's in the rear, just put these on and didn't get a chance to mess with too much of the C/R, it was at 2/6 and 3/6 Friday at the track. I have been stuck in the 1.64-1.69 range for the longest time. Dump the clutch off the 2 step at 5,500 to 5,900. It spins a little then hooks and takes off. The car doesn't really bounce at all. Best pass so far is 11.58 @ 119.49 with a 1.64 60'. Does the suspension setup sound right with the UCA and LCA holes? I'd like to be in the lower 1.4's.
     
  20. oldstv

    oldstv Well-Known Member Premium Member Established Member

    Messages:
    1,535
    Joined:
    May 28, 2008
    Location:
    thomasville ga
    Here is my question. I am running an auto with apx 800 to the tires. The car hooks good at the track on MT Pros "1.37" but I would like to try it on the street. Put a set of slicks on yesterday on the same shock setting 3/7 and could not get it to hook. Have a set of Ford Racing 1" drop springs that don't squat much. Would I benefit from another spring?
    Should I take the bump stops off to allow more travel?
     

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