SVTP Tool-Tech | Solder Seal Butt Connectors | The Best Way to Splice

SID297

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SVTP Tool-Tech | Solder Seal Butt Connectors | The Best Way to Splice

Solder_Seal_004.jpg

Few things in auto repair can be more frustrating than trying to track down an electrical problem. If you’re dealing with some previously modified wiring it can be even more fun. If this is an issue you’re facing, chances are you’ll be making some splices. Wiring work is simply a fact of life if you spend enough time in the car modding game, and there’s one cardinal rule that must be followed : “Do it once, and do it right.” The last thing you want to have to do is tear back into some custom wiring later on down the road.

To that end, we’ve started using a newer style of butt connector in all of our wire splices. Gone are the days of the broke ass standard crimp style connector, and we’ve even retired the marine style connector with integrated heat-shrink sheathing and waterproof sealant. The best product out there now combines the features of the marine style connector with a little ring of heat activated solder in the center of the connector. The idea being that once the wires are inserted you simply take your heat source of choice to the connector.

Solder_Seal_006.jpg


That little ring of solder in the center of the connector makes all the difference in the world.


The result is once heat is applied the solder melts into the spliced wires, creating a permanently and professionally spliced joint. But wait, there’s more. The outer sleeve is effectively a marine style butt connector. So as you apply heat a sealant oozes out around the wire and the sleeve shrinks on to create a watertight seal. So how good are these things? I have it on good authority that the use of this style of connector is the approved method by Mercedes Benz for splicing wires on their cars. Take your AMG G-Wagon in for some warranty related wire splicing, and you’re probably going to leave the dealership with some of these. I know after using them on a few projects around the shop here I won’t be going back to the old tech.




I picked my set up on Amazon, but plenty of hardware and marine retailers carry them. If you’re interested, this is the exact outfit I purchased:




Solder_Seal_002.jpg


-SID297
 
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01yellercobra

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I started using these a couple years ago when I wired things up for the stand alone. They're really easy to use and have held up well. Even after a season on the Can Am.
 

PhoenixM3

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Nice! It's about time a better solution was available. I'm a micro-miniature repair technician from days past and dread breaking out a soldering iron to make a single wire splice.
 

SID297

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Nice! It's about time a better solution was available. I'm a micro-miniature repair technician from days past and dread breaking out a soldering iron to make a single wire splice.

You're not kidding. Part of the pain of a quick wiring job tends to be pulling out half the tools you own to make a 5 minute fix.
 

JCDriller

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What heat source do you use?
I love these things. A heat gun works well, I mostly use a butane torch, but use a lot of movement, keep my distance and apply the heat evenly. You can definitely over do it, but once you get the hang on it, you can’t beat the convenience and speed (heat up time) of a torch.
 

03cobra#694

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I love these things. A heat gun works well, I mostly use a butane torch, but use a lot of movement, keep my distance and apply the heat evenly. You can definitely over do it, but once you get the hang on it, you can’t beat the convenience and speed (heat up time) of a torch.
Thanks, they look slick and a descent price too. Going to order some to have around.
 

JCDriller

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The hardest part is ensuring the wire gets warm enough to pull the solder down. I've had a number of these things basically melt to pieces before the wire ever pulled the solder in.
100%, I’ve found if I have room to slide the connector down the wire as to not preshrink it, warming the wire ahead of time helps, then quickly slide the connector down and keep applying heat.

Make sure your connector slides easily before you start to warm the wire, don’t want it to hang up, start shrinking then burn your fingers trying to coax it into place. Ask me how I know….
 

SID297

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The hardest part is ensuring the wire gets warm enough to pull the solder down. I've had a number of these things basically melt to pieces before the wire ever pulled the solder in.

I've never had that problem with the particular brand I posted about, but have seen people complain about other brands doing what you mentioned.

What heat source do you use?

I've always had the best luck with a heat gun. I use a cheap one from HF.
 

96dreamer

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I've got a ton of these on my car from the ms3 install and trying to reuse the factory harness as much as possible. Knock on wood, I have had zero failures so far. I use a harbor freight two setting heat gun on high. I try and melt the glue section on each side first to hold the wires and then go to work on the solder part.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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The hardest part is ensuring the wire gets warm enough to pull the solder down. I've had a number of these things basically melt to pieces before the wire ever pulled the solder in.
was gonna mention this
I've never had that problem with the particular brand I posted about, but have seen people complain about other brands doing what you mentioned.
I guess I wasn't paying enough attention to the brands, that's what got me was the complaints about the solder not melting

I've got a big old box of heat shrink butt splices, maybe I'll try these when I run out but I've never had an issue using them.

And kind of on subject - the marine heat shrink tubing from harbor freight works extremely well.
 

SID297

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was gonna mention this

I guess I wasn't paying enough attention to the brands, that's what got me was the complaints about the solder not melting

I've got a big old box of heat shrink butt splices, maybe I'll try these when I run out but I've never had an issue using them.

And kind of on subject - the marine heat shrink tubing from harbor freight works extremely well.

I always used the marine crimp style butt connectors before. I find these superior.
 

CobraBob

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I've had it happen with everything from a bic lighter to heat gun to small torch and various other tries

Ironically they all work to varying degrees of success
Travis explained in the video that some brands of solder seal butt connectors are inferior to others, which is why he recommends this particular brand. As with so many products nowadays (with a multitude of inferior knockoffs), choose carefully. Just stick with his recommended brand and you'll be good to go.

Travis, thanks for doing/posting this video. I never knew this product existed and I'm anxious to try it out. It definitely makes wire connecting about as easy and solid as it can be.
 

SID297

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Travis explained in the video that some brands of solder seal butt connectors are inferior to others, which is why he recommends this particular brand. As with so many products nowadays (with a multitude of inferior knockoffs), choose carefully. Just stick with his recommended brand and you'll be good to go.

Travis, thanks for doing/posting this video. I never knew this product existed and I'm anxious to try it out. It definitely makes wire connecting about as easy and solid as it can be.

Thanks Bob.
 

PhoenixM3

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The hardest part is ensuring the wire gets warm enough to pull the solder down. I've had a number of these things basically melt to pieces before the wire ever pulled the solder in.
Clean both wire ends with alcohol (not Scotch) then use flux to facilitate heat transfer and good solder flow.
 

JetmechF16

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I love these, use them on my sxs, boat, cobra, etc. and have never had a problem with them. Heat gun works great without burning them. I replaced all 8 of my L5P Duramax fuel injector harness connectors using these, makes the job 10x easier.
 

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