switching rear gears should i change the diff. aswell?

Whipple V8

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as title says im changing rear gears. i have a mt-82 2012 coyote making 602rwhp with a tvs blower.

i currently have 3 :73 gears and i plan on putting in 3:31s . the car has 46k miles, i dont race much at all but id like to do 10-15 runs at the track a yr for fun. i will probably run on a 305mm wide drag radial. would it be a good idea to upgrade the diff. at the same time or will the stock diff be fine? i dont plan on doing any high rpm clutch dumps at the track.
 

Gruca

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You’ll probably be fine keeping your rear end as is, with the new 3.31s. People have taken them into the 8s and 9s and it’s held up.
 

Whipple V8

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i know nothing is guaranteed. but im just really hoping if i were to leave the stock diff. in it will last another couple years and 15-20k miles so i dont have to pay for the dealership labor twice before i plan on selling the car for the next one.
 

Gruca

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i know nothing is guaranteed. but im just really hoping if i were to leave the stock diff. in it will last another couple years and 15-20k miles so i dont have to pay for the dealership labor twice before i plan on selling the car for the next one.
You could replace the diff in your garage. It’s actually very easy to do.
 

clinton2003

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Did you do your own? Is a press needed? Been thinking about doing my own as well.
if your mechanically inclined, you can easily do a stock-stock diff replacement yourself. You will need to get the new diff and get the bearings pressed on the ends, then just swap them out. Use oem spacers and check the pattern with pattern grease. if it looks good your fine, otherwise you can use the shims that come in a diff kit (where the bearings are as well)

as title says im changing rear gears. i have a mt-82 2012 coyote making 602rwhp with a tvs blower.

i currently have 3 :73 gears and i plan on putting in 3:31s . the car has 46k miles, i dont race much at all but id like to do 10-15 runs at the track a yr for fun. i will probably run on a 305mm wide drag radial. would it be a good idea to upgrade the diff. at the same time or will the stock diff be fine? i dont plan on doing any high rpm clutch dumps at the track.
I would pick up a new diff (oem one is fine) when you do the gears, he has to remove the one anyway, and should be no extra labor to swap it out. especially if you get an oem one that is fully assembled..

Ive ran my car on a stock diff, i used to have a MT82 and launch HARD. Would tear up spider gears every once in a while. If you are trying to just get by and dont plan on going crazy at the track, just replace it now, and not worry about it.. think they can be had from AM with discount for about $200... cheap insurance to not have to do it again, and you can keep the old one for parts, if you decided to launch hard or whatnot....

BTW, im still on a stock diff with my car....... not the smartest thing, but just haven't pushed myself to do the spool yet....
 

clinton2003

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the welding of your tubes, that can be a pain. make sure you heat up the center section up with a rosebud, or similar before you start welding. also make sure its constant and you go all the way around quickly, so the heat wont pull it crooked...
 

Reaper14

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the welding of your tubes, that can be a pain. make sure you heat up the center section up with a rosebud, or similar before you start welding. also make sure its constant and you go all the way around quickly, so the heat wont pull it crooked...
What temp to you heat up to? 220*. Im making a jig to keep it from shifting. Wouldnt 1" stitch welds keep it from moving?

Sent from my [device_name] using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

clinton2003

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you want to get it pretty hot, hot enough you need to change the fluid when your done. what your trying to do is have the metals about the same temperature when they are being welded. if you dont heat up the cast housing enough, the metals will cool at different rates and can develop micro cracks.

if you did a little on one side, then 180* did a matching one, it could work, but not going to be perfect... best bet is to have a guy do it thats really good at welding, so they can run an EVEN bead around the axle in 1 or 2 go's.

I had a guy Tig mine. looks stock, you really have to look close to see that its welded. Then had him add a weld on swarr bar. car has held together for years with no issues.
 

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