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Driveline
T-56 Magnum Swap Considerations
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<blockquote data-quote="DCguy" data-source="post: 16852791" data-attributes="member: 196849"><p>This issue of clearance and clutch fork travel is only really an issue when using the magnum with twin disk clutches like you stated..</p><p></p><p>There are some twin disk clutch kits that have a lower overall stack height than others. For example, the Centerforce DYAD's have a recessed flywheel which allows for a more condensed overall package and thus requires no grinding of the clutch fork / trans case in order to get the necessary engagement points dialed in.</p><p></p><p>I always try to shorten the pivot ball by as much possible while still having the TOB engage the clutch fingers slightly in neutral....to make sure you have it set correct easiest is to get the rear wheels off the ground and make sure they're not spinning while in neutral.....You should be able to disengage the TOB by slightly pulling back on the clutch fork by hand....anyway, that's how i've been doing it and seems to work well.</p><p></p><p>The end goal is to have your clutch engage at the center of pedal travel or a tad sooner......i've driven cars where it engages at the very top due to poor pivot ball adjustment or too tall of a clutch stack. Not a fun car to drive IMO. Maximum motorsports also sells a clutch pedal bracket kit that helps to lower the clutch pedal a bit so that it's more level with the brake pedal.....with all that in place you'll have a compliant clutch that is easy and fun to drive.</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Clutch-Pedal-Height-Adjuster-1994-04-P502.aspx[/URL]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DCguy, post: 16852791, member: 196849"] This issue of clearance and clutch fork travel is only really an issue when using the magnum with twin disk clutches like you stated.. There are some twin disk clutch kits that have a lower overall stack height than others. For example, the Centerforce DYAD's have a recessed flywheel which allows for a more condensed overall package and thus requires no grinding of the clutch fork / trans case in order to get the necessary engagement points dialed in. I always try to shorten the pivot ball by as much possible while still having the TOB engage the clutch fingers slightly in neutral....to make sure you have it set correct easiest is to get the rear wheels off the ground and make sure they're not spinning while in neutral.....You should be able to disengage the TOB by slightly pulling back on the clutch fork by hand....anyway, that's how i've been doing it and seems to work well. The end goal is to have your clutch engage at the center of pedal travel or a tad sooner......i've driven cars where it engages at the very top due to poor pivot ball adjustment or too tall of a clutch stack. Not a fun car to drive IMO. Maximum motorsports also sells a clutch pedal bracket kit that helps to lower the clutch pedal a bit so that it's more level with the brake pedal.....with all that in place you'll have a compliant clutch that is easy and fun to drive. [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Clutch-Pedal-Height-Adjuster-1994-04-P502.aspx[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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