Teksid build

[holiks03cobra]

I'm in the process of building a teksid and thought I'd share it with y'all. It's a std bore block, I'll be using the stock crank and rods, custom pistons from Gibtec(leaning toward 10:1 cr)yes, I'm running E85, stock heads with 98 cobra cams, cloyes cam gears, king bearings(main and rod), EMP stewart water pump, Cobra engineering tensioner and dowel pins, GT500 3V oil pump w/Boundary billet gears, and ARP hardware. I will be taking everything to the machine shop sometime this week. Can't wait to get it done and put back into the car! I also have a set of Kooks 1-3/4" headers and 3" x-pipe to replace my Mac 1-5/8" headers and 2-1/2" x-pipe. All other mods in my sig will remain the same. What kind of numbers do you think it will put down?

 

[PWORLDSTANG]

This is a solid build. You aren't spinning the blower very hard so I'd say somewhere between 700-725RWHP. .

You'd really benefit from spinning the blower a little harder. Going to a 2.75'' pulley from your 3.00'' pulley with this combo would be ideal.

 

[holiks03cobra]

This is a solid build. You aren't spinning the blower very hard so I'd say somewhere between 700-725RWHP. .

You'd really benefit from spinning the blower a little harder. Going to a 2.75'' pulley from your 3.00'' pulley with this combo would be ideal.

Thanks. The car made 720rwhp with the stock long block on a 3.00/4lb lower set-up.

The blower is making 24lbs on a 3.00/2lb lower set-up. It was making 26lbs on a 3.00/4lb. I can always put the 4lb lower back on.

 

[PWORLDSTANG]

I didn't see a lower listed in your sig so I assumed you were only running the 3.00'' upper. If you run the 3.0/4lb set up I think you will make around 750RWHP. IMO that's spinning the Whipple 2.3L too much, but guys have done it (like yourself).

My preference for a solid drag set up with your high compression motor would be a 3.0/2lb set up. I think you'd still make over 735RWHP and with hot but tolerable temps. With the cams degreed in and some C-85 fuel, I'm confident you would make over 750RWHP with the 3.0/2lb combo. These are my guesstimates.

 

[98 Saleen Cobra]

Even with the stock lower and 3" pulley that combo will make in the 800's.. Quite easily. And this isn't me guessing lol. Good luck on the build.

 

[MalcolmV8]

You should be a fair amount over 700. My stock motor with lower than stock compression pistons, -19 CC dish, made 705 whp with a stock lower and 3" upper with a 2.9 crusher. You're talking 10.1 CR which will have a fairly profound effect on power.

 

[SlowSVT]

Sounds like a good list of ingredients.

The V3 oil pump is designed for an engine with cam phasers which need the extra volume. Larger pump gears in a mod motor may result in too much pressure which will have the pressure bypass working overtime putting extra load on the gerotors for no reason. I looked into this and decided to stick with the factory oil pump with billet gears. The V3 oil pump seemed like an attractive option but after looking at it in more detail I decided against it. If I thought this was a slam dunk there would be a 3V pump on my motor right now but there isn't. Don't recall all the details but it's something you should look into.

 

[98 Saleen Cobra]

I would personally look into a TSS oil pump

 

[PWORLDSTANG]

Even with the stock lower and 3" pulley that combo will make in the 800's.. Quite easily. And this isn't me guessing lol. Good luck on the build.

You should be a fair amount over 700. My stock motor with lower than stock compression pistons, -19 CC dish, made 705 whp with a stock lower and 3" upper with a 2.9 crusher. You're talking 10.1 CR which will have a fairly profound effect on power.

^ What they said. This whole time I thought you were running a 2.3L - completely missed the 2.9L in your sig. You will make over 800RWHP with your combo for sure on that blower.

 

[holiks03cobra]

I didn't see a lower listed in your sig so I assumed you were only running the 3.00'' upper. If you run the 3.0/4lb set up I think you will make around 750RWHP. IMO that's spinning the Whipple 2.3L too much, but guys have done it (like yourself).

Hmm, maybe you overlooked it but yeah I have a metco lower. And I'm not running the 2.3 whipple, I have the 2.9 whipple.

Even with the stock lower and 3" pulley that combo will make in the 800's.. Quite easily. And this isn't me guessing lol. Good luck on the build.

Now that's the numbers I was wanting to hear! lol. Thanks!

Sounds like a good list of ingredients.

The V3 oil pump is designed for an engine with cam phasers which need the extra volume. Larger pump gears in a mod motor may result in too much pressure which will have the pressure bypass working overtime putting extra load on the gerotors for no reason. I looked into this and decided to stick with the factory oil pump with billet gears. The V3 oil pump seemed like an attractive option but after looking at it in more detail I decided against it. If I thought this was a slam dunk there would be a 3V pump on my motor right now but there isn't. Don't recall all the details but it's something you should look into.

I still have the stock pump with Boundary Billet gears, I just go with that. Thanks!

I would personally look into a TSS oil pump

I appreciate the advice but after buying 2 sets of gears and the 3V oil pump I'd rather not buy another pump haha

 

[holiks03cobra]

^ What they said. This whole time I thought you were running a 2.3L - completely missed the 2.9L in your sig. You will make over 800RWHP with your combo for sure on that blower.

Yeah in your 2nd post I realized you were talking about the 2.3L.

 

[holiks03cobra]

You should be a fair amount over 700. My stock motor with lower than stock compression pistons, -19 CC dish, made 705 whp with a stock lower and 3" upper with a 2.9 crusher. You're talking 10.1 CR which will have a fairly profound effect on power.

I also have the 2.9 but it's a non-crusher. Buying the crusher inlet has crossed my mind from time to time though.

 

[MalcolmV8]

I also have the 2.9 but it's a non-crusher. Buying the crusher inlet has crossed my mind from time to time though.

Having done that I'd say don't bother with the headaches. Now if everything is maxed out and you're looking for more the crusher setup gave me 4 lbs more boost without changing anything else so it definitely works.

However.... it comes at a price. The darn thing is so huge it rubs on the hood so be prepared for that. I removed my hood liner but then it just rubbed on the hood directly, put washers as spacers on the hood hinges but wasn't quite enough. I could have spaced and dropped down the k-member but not wanting to drop the entire drive train I notched and fiberglassed in the hood and had the underside repainted.

It has the IAC motor placed in a horrible location and smashes your a/c line. I had Cobra Engineering custom fab me up an adapter to turn it off to the side so it would clear that issue. He now sells them on his website so that's good for you.

If you thought access to any of the installation bolts was difficult before wait till the crusher is on there you're going to love it. Installing the entire assembly, intake manifold and blower as one, is a must. And even that's a PITA.

The crusher inlet is so huge it goes completely over the bypass valve actuator so if you ever need to mess with it you have to pull the blower and remove the inlet which requires removing the base plate which requires drilling out the plugs on the bottom and buying replacement plugs and o-rings from whipple each time. Massive pain. Had my blower apart many times changing up combos.

When going crusher the IAC becomes external so you have a hose that runs up to your intake tube that you must put a hole in and a 90 degree elbow with a rubber grommet. It's kind of cheesy and often leaks as the rubber goes hard. I found myself repairing, replacing that all the time.

I'm pretty sure you already can't remove your fuel rails or get the rear of the rail on the passenger's side? if you can though that's gone with the crusher. Any fuel work means pulling the entire blower setup every time.

You can still get spark plugs out on the passenger's side luckily, it's just a matter of knowing the correct combo of socket extensions and swivels to use. You get used to that.

Hopefully Whipple has fixed their throttle body issues by now. I got mine back in 2011 and I went through 3 or 4 TBs before I got a 160 mm mono blade that kind of worked for me. It leaked so much air the car would idle at 1800 RPM. It took a lot of tinkering and tune adjustments to get the car to idle right.

Like I say it's a great intake for power. My car picked up and ran strong with it but be aware of all price it comes at.

BTW I am a Whipple dealer and have been for several years. If you still want a crusher upgrade PM me. I'm a horrible salesman, I'd rather you know exactly what you're getting into and be happy with your car.

 

[holiks03cobra]

Having done that I'd say don't bother with the headaches. Now if everything is maxed out and you're looking for more the crusher setup gave me 4 lbs more boost without changing anything else so it definitely works.

However.... it comes at a price. The darn thing is so huge it rubs on the hood so be prepared for that. I removed my hood liner but then it just rubbed on the hood directly, put washers as spacers on the hood hinges but wasn't quite enough. I could have spaced and dropped down the k-member but not wanting to drop the entire drive train I notched and fiberglassed in the hood and had the underside repainted.

It has the IAC motor placed in a horrible location and smashes your a/c line. I had Cobra Engineering custom fab me up an adapter to turn it off to the side so it would clear that issue. He now sells them on his website so that's good for you.

If you thought access to any of the installation bolts was difficult before wait till the crusher is on there you're going to love it. Installing the entire assembly, intake manifold and blower as one, is a must. And even that's a PITA.

The crusher inlet is so huge it goes completely over the bypass valve actuator so if you ever need to mess with it you have to pull the blower and remove the inlet which requires removing the base plate which requires drilling out the plugs on the bottom and buying replacement plugs and o-rings from whipple each time. Massive pain. Had my blower apart many times changing up combos.

When going crusher the IAC becomes external so you have a hose that runs up to your intake tube that you must put a hole in and a 90 degree elbow with a rubber grommet. It's kind of cheesy and often leaks as the rubber goes hard. I found myself repairing, replacing that all the time.

I'm pretty sure you already can't remove your fuel rails or get the rear of the rail on the passenger's side? if you can though that's gone with the crusher. Any fuel work means pulling the entire blower setup every time.

You can still get spark plugs out on the passenger's side luckily, it's just a matter of knowing the correct combo of socket extensions and swivels to use. You get used to that.

Hopefully Whipple has fixed their throttle body issues by now. I got mine back in 2011 and I went through 3 or 4 TBs before I got a 160 mm mono blade that kind of worked for me. It leaked so much air the car would idle at 1800 RPM. It took a lot of tinkering and tune adjustments to get the car to idle right.

Like I say it's a great intake for power. My car picked up and ran strong with it but be aware of all price it comes at.

BTW I am a Whipple dealer and have been for several years. If you still want a crusher upgrade PM me. I'm a horrible salesman, I'd rather you know exactly what you're getting into and be happy with your car.

That sounds like more trouble than I care to deal with. I'll just stick with the standard inlet. Thanks Malcolm

 

[MalcolmV8]

That sounds like more trouble than I care to deal with. I'll just stick with the standard inlet. Thanks Malcolm

:beer:

 

[93oh]

On the teksid anyone have a list of what you need to use it in a cobra?

 

[01yellercobra]

On the teksid anyone have a list of what you need to use it in a cobra?

If you're talking about dropping it in your car the timing cover will need RTV under the water pump. There's a bolt hole that the iron block has that the aluminum block doesn't. You'll have to grind down the knock sensor bosses in the valley to clear the lower intake. I'm probably missing something, but it's all pretty straight forward. I went from an aluminum block to an iron block in my 01.

 

[MalcolmV8]

On the teksid anyone have a list of what you need to use it in a cobra?

Here you go. I wrote up a detailed thread with plenty of pics and details. Read through it.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...ksid-block-Vs-Stock-03-Cobra-block-pics-iside

 

[01yellercobra]

Here you go. I wrote up a detailed thread with plenty of pics and details. Read through it.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...ksid-block-Vs-Stock-03-Cobra-block-pics-iside

You're the one that I figured would catch what I missed.

Sent from my SM-T237P using Tapatalk

 

[MalcolmV8]

Haha some good info in that thread. Should help out quite a bit.