The Angry Grey GT350 is finally drinking alcohol!

[ANGREY]

Took awhile, but I finally got everything setup for E85.

Some notes:

1) If you think you can syphon fuel out of a GT350, don't count on it. I tried every hose/tube I could muster and there must be an anti-syphon baffle or screen at the bottom of the filler neck, because despite my best efforts, I could not syphon fuel OUT of the fuel cell. I ended up idling the car well past "0 miles" on the range display.

2) I have some street logging to do and report back to Lund, but the difference is noticeable. Not crazy or night and day (and I try to be very honest with myself and not fall victim to placebo effects). I can tell a difference in both torque and sound. I also tend to monitor the AFR, Spark and Knock and the tune Lund provides definitely runs out additional timing in the lower RPM range (which is where the added torque comes from). The sound is different. As in, it doesn't sound as good (to me) as the 93 tune. The last 93 tune I finished with sounds very full and deep (some of you may notice the car sounds and feels a little different at full tank after fill up. I'm not sure if this is added static pressure from the fuel to the pump at full tank or if it's due to the computer/ecu re-learn that happens when you go from low fuel level to top off).

3) I've researched, but there's honestly not a lot of information out there beyond E85 locations (in terms of E85 content). I ran the car down as much as possible and filled with E85 from a Marathon station near my home. After several minutes of drawing out the old 93 in the fuel system and getting the car acclimated, the car settled on 77% ethanol content (using the NGauge gauge output that's a workaround I guess). I know there's wide standards for E85, so I'm guessing some stations get higher content than others (and probably varies at the same station depending on when they fill the tanks).

I have yet to run the full E85 tune, right now I'm still testing out the flex tune. I'll report back as to whether that "feels" any better. At some point I'll try to get this thing on a dyno and report back numbers.

I have ARH full system (with 2" primaries) and JLT CAI with the Lund Tunes loaded as well as Signature wheels (21 and 23 lbs) so this thing should put down some nice RWHP/RWTQ numbers.

 

[jvandy50]

Get one of these if ya haven’t already...


I never got anything above 77% on my local pumps, as my ngauge read at 91%. I’d want to know for sure before i did the full e85 tune.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

even the new edge cars have a check ball where the filler goes into the tank to prevent fuel from coming out in a rollover. Ive got a hose kit I use in the engine bay to pump fuel out into cans if Im not gonna run the tank all the way down

 

[ANGREY]

Get one of these if ya haven’t already...


I never got anything above 77% on my local pumps, as my ngauge read at 91%. I’d want to know for sure before i did the full e85 tune.

Many thanks. I'll get one.

 

[ANGREY]

even the new edge cars have a check ball where the filler goes into the tank to prevent fuel from coming out in a rollover. Ive got a hose kit I use in the engine bay to pump fuel out into cans if Im not gonna run the tank all the way down

So how does that work exactly? You capture the fuel from the rails? Do you have to draw it with a pump or you use the vehicle fuel pump. I can't imagine you can draw fuel through the pump without it running and how do you capture the fuel if the pump itself is working (without starving the engine)? Or do you just capture the return line?

 

[Osiris]

Just run the tank down, fill with E85, run that tank down, then fill again, then test. Why go through the hassle of sucking out anything? On E you'll get about 15 mpg, or roughly 200 miles on a tank. That'll go pretty fast.

On E my car put down 476 on a dyno jet. According to Lund all my numbers were spot on for them in regards to A/F, alc %, etc.

That was on a stock exhaust and JLT CAI. I have off road pipes now but doubt that'll matter too much. Apparently long tubes is where this makes the most diff. If I'm reading all this stuff correctly.

Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

So how does that work exactly? You capture the fuel from the rails? Do you have to draw it with a pump or you use the vehicle fuel pump. I can't imagine you can draw fuel through the pump without it running and how do you capture the fuel if the pump itself is working (without starving the engine)? Or do you just capture the return line?

my car is a return setup and mine by default the fuel pumps now run continuously with key on. I detach a feed hose at the back of a rail, put on my transfer how and run it into a can then just turn the key forward. All in all you're fine to just run the tank down as mentioned and swap fuels, I just have this in place in case I dont have time to burn it all off and need to change (ie dyno or track time coming up). I believe they can write you a tune to use to make the pumps run full time with the keyforward - you load that tune, hook up your hoses to pump it out, load the tune for next fuel type and fill up.

 

[ANGREY]

Just run the tank down, fill with E85, run that tank down, then fill again, then test. Why go through the hassle of sucking out anything? On E you'll get about 15 mpg, or roughly 200 miles on a tank. That'll go pretty fast.

On E my car put down 476 on a dyno jet. According to Lund all my numbers were spot on for them in regards to A/F, alc %, etc.

That was on a stock exhaust and JLT CAI. I have off road pipes now but doubt that'll matter too much. Apparently long tubes is where this makes the most diff. If I'm reading all this stuff correctly.

Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

The cats (restriction) the headers (restriction) and the tune and then E85 (timing) are where the most gains are noticed. The intake is a bit of snake oil and depends on the tuner. But just a tune will bring out some more power, or just dumping the cats will wring out some more or adding long tubes, and obviously the combination of all that.

Given my setup, I'd be shocked if I wasn't North of 510-520 with what I've seen from other dyno sheets with comparable setups.

And just the wheels alone are good for a few ponies at the rollers.

 

[ANGREY]

my car is a return setup and mine by default the fuel pumps now run continuously with key on. I detach a feed hose at the back of a rail, put on my transfer how and run it into a can then just turn the key forward. All in all you're fine to just run the tank down as mentioned and swap fuels, I just have this in place in case I dont have time to burn it all off and need to change (ie dyno or track time coming up). I believe they can write you a tune to use to make the pumps run full time with the keyforward - you load that tune, hook up your hoses to pump it out, load the tune for next fuel type and fill up.

It's mainly about time and what a PITA it is to drive it so low (without risk of being stranded). Combined with the fact that after a swap, the computer needs to nearly fill it up (in order to get the computer to initiate a re-initialize) and it's not like I can just carry a jerry can with a couple of gallons for safe measure. I can burn up the fuel fast when ripping around out on the highway, but driving around the block and to/from errands to get it low is frustrating and annoying.

I'm gonna check out the return connection and see if I can't fab something up. In all honesty, I don't plan on changing tunes all that often so maybe it's not worth the effort. What you've done is pretty clever and efficient though if you're swapping tunes a lot.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

It's mainly about time and what a PITA it is to drive it so low (without risk of being stranded). Combined with the fact that after a swap, the computer needs to nearly fill it up (in order to get the computer to initiate a re-initialize) and it's not like I can just carry a jerry can with a couple of gallons for safe measure. I can burn up the fuel fast when ripping around out on the highway, but driving around the block and to/from errands to get it low is frustrating and annoying.

I'm gonna check out the return connection and see if I can't fab something up. In all honesty, I don't plan on changing tunes all that often so maybe it's not worth the effort. What you've done is pretty clever and efficient though if you're swapping tunes a lot.

I think JPC racing used to sell a kit (not sure what all years it covers) that put a T fitting inline at the rail with a cap. Then you had a hose with a lever to open close a ball valve at the end. You take the cap off the T fitting, hook up the hose and pump it out into cans.

 

[50 Deep]

This is getting exciting. Can’t wait to read the final report on the car once it’s all done

 

[gimmie11s]

It's mainly about time and what a PITA it is to drive it so low (without risk of being stranded). Combined with the fact that after a swap, the computer needs to nearly fill it up (in order to get the computer to initiate a re-initialize) and it's not like I can just carry a jerry can with a couple of gallons for safe measure. I can burn up the fuel fast when ripping around out on the highway, but driving around the block and to/from errands to get it low is frustrating and annoying.

I'm gonna check out the return connection and see if I can't fab something up. In all honesty, I don't plan on changing tunes all that often so maybe it's not worth the effort. What you've done is pretty clever and efficient though if you're swapping tunes a lot.

This is what the Flex tune is for. An in between tune for switching fuels. Jon Jr will tell you he doesn't like to really run full time on the flex tune.

Use the Flex tune to run down your tank fully when a mix of gasoline and e85. Once you get to empty, refill with pure e85 and then load the E85R tune.

The e85R tune is a blast and brings a BUNCH of torque down low.

 

[ANGREY]

This is what the Flex tune is for. An in between tune for switching fuels. Jon Jr will tell you he doesn't like to really run full time on the flex tune.

Use the Flex tune to run down your tank fully when a mix of gasoline and e85. Once you get to empty, refill with pure e85 and then load the E85R tune.

The e85R tune is a blast and brings a BUNCH of torque down low.

Agreed, but how much 93 is left in the tank effects how many refuels will be necessary to get most of it out. It's a decaying function. Each time you flush a little bit more. I won't run the full E85 tune for a few cycles on the flex tune.

Where I really notice the change is between 2 and 4k on partial throttle going up or down. The car just seems to be "stronger" and more ready and waiting to jump (if that makes sense).

 

[gimmie11s]

Agreed, but how much 93 is left in the tank effects how many refuels will be necessary to get most of it out. It's a decaying function. Each time you flush a little bit more. I won't run the full E85 tune for a few cycles on the flex tune.

Where I really notice the change is between 2 and 4k on partial throttle going up or down. The car just seems to be "stronger" and more ready and waiting to jump (if that makes sense).

Theoretically sure. Just run the flex tune 2x while refilling with e85 each time after running it down to empty.

Dont over think it.


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[JAJ]

Agreed, but how much 93 is left in the tank effects how many refuels will be necessary to get most of it out. It's a decaying function...

As a rule of thumb, you have to run through 2x the tank volume. That means you have to run 32 gallons of new fuel through your 16 gallon tank. For instance, if you run the tank down to 5 gallons left and fill with 11 gallons of E85 3 times for a total of 33 gallons, you're down to 3% of 93 and 97% E85 at the next fill up. That makes it E82, if you want to think about it that way.