SOLD!!! I’m going to go ahead and pre-apologize for this being a lengthy advertisement but I’m going to do my best to get all the details out there the first go around. I can’t stand it when people post up cars for sale and only list a minimal amount of information, leaving it up to others to ask the right questions or just wonder. But of course feel free to ask any follow up questions if you feel there is something I’ve forgotten. First and foremost because I don’t want there to be any confusion or anyone to think I am trying to hide anything: The car (the body, the VIN) started off as a 2001 V6 car. It is NOT a “real” Cobra. The title also shows it as a “Total Loss Claim.” So if any of that bothers you, this is not the car for you. As you will see below though there is really nothing left on the vehicle that was “original” and the damage that originally occurred to the V6 car was a ¼ panel and hood damage. The guy I originally bought the car from, who did the conversion, said there was no structural or frame damage to the car and since ownership I have had that verified by a quality body shop. There is absolutely nothing wrong with this car, in fact most of it is like new. Some history: As stated above, this car started off as an ’01 V6. It was then “converted” to an 03/04 Cobra clone with ALL components (engine, drivetrain, interior, IRS, suspension, brakes, body panels, etc). The only things I am aware of that are not the same as a Terminator are the sun visors (they don’t have a light on them) and the rear ¼ panels are actually from a Mach I. All components were swapped from a wrecked ’04 Cobra or were new OEM parts. The car was completely stripped and then painted 1993 Cobra Teal. The gentleman who did the conversion also painted the car and told me he had been painting for 20 years. You can look at the paint and tell it was a quality job. It does have a few very small imperfections in a couple spots (like a spec of dust/trash in the clear coat here and there of which could easily be wet sanded out, I’ve just never wanted to risk it). Overall though the paint is like factory or better. The car has always been garaged since it was painted and for the past 7+ years has never even seen the rain. And prior to that it had only been in the rain a handful of times. I originally bought the car back in August of 2006, essentially as a stock Terminator that had been painted Teal. The motor, drivetrain and interior all came from a donor Cobra. Some of the other components were bought new when the conversion was performed. The car was “converted” and painted in the beginning of 2006. When I purchased the car the odometer then read 43,000 miles. That mileage corresponded to the original donor Cobra motor and drivetrain. But 2006 and 43k is basically your zero reference for the paint and some of the components on the car (remember this when reading my indicated mileage below on given parts). Since then the motor has been rebuilt and many of the factory components have been replaced (details below). I actually sold this car the first time in Jan. 2011 with approximately 68K miles on it. The new owner and I kept in touch over the years and when he decided to sell it in 2016 he offered it back to me and I decided to pull the trigger… for a second time, lol. It’s been a year and a half since then and while I have thoroughly enjoyed having the car back the fact of the matter is I just don’t have time to enjoy it like I use to (I have two kids now and life is just busier). And to be quite honest I’m looking for a new DD and I want to roll the funds from the sale of the Terminator into my next DD purchase as to be able to afford something newer and nicer. Soooo, up for sale she goes again, lol. Below are all the details of the mods and I’m sure I’m still leaving a few things out. But I have a folder full of info and receipts that will go with the car along with many stock parts and even a few new uninstalled parts. Engine: -Rebuilt @ 63,300 miles. The heads were also gone back through (valve job, valve seals, head resurfacing) -The odometer currently reads just shy of 84,000 miles -Broken in with Joe Gibbs dedicated break-in oil -All ARP hardware -All new gaskets and seals -New Energy Suspension polyurethane motor mounts -Bored .020 over -17cc Diamond Pistons and Rings, factory Manley rods -All new coated high performance bearings -Factory forged crank -The piston to cylinder wall clearance is slightly greater than factory, to prevent the “common” failure in the factory short block of pistons seizing up on high speed runs or extended periods of high boost. There is however no audible piston slap from this added clearance. -The heads have had some mild porting to the bowls. -Canton oversized road racing oil pan -Canton coolant expansion tank -LDC head cooling mod -I lightly sanded and painted the valve covers at ~48k miles - JLT 12” CAI (I painted the tube Teal as well) -All Billetflow pullies (including auxiliary idler) -Metco lower pulley kit (have 4# and 2# rings) with 3.2” alternator pulley -BBK longtube headers w/ matching highflow cat H-pipe -DMH Performance low profile exhaust cutouts (brand new ones still in box to be installed soon… replaced under warranty) -FR500 catback w/ SLP 3.5” beveled tips welded on -Powder coated (black) KB inlet, timing chain cover, pulley bracket, pullies and more -LFP single blade throttle body -Kenne Bell 2.8H blower (have 3.75” and 4” pullies including removal tool) -Mildly ported/polisted KB inlet -NGK TR7IX plugs -EGR delete (~75k miles) -Maximum Motorsports oil filter relocation kit (~75k miles) -New Bosch intercooler pump (82k miles) Fuel: -Siemens Deka 63lb/hr injectors (flow matched) -Fore Precision billet fuel hat -Dual Ford GT fuel pumps -Dual FPDM -KB FRPS disk -Lethal Performance FPDM wiring upgrade kit Drivetrain: -Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel with replaceable inner ring -McCloud RST Twin Disk Clutch/PP (installed at 56,250 miles) -Liberty 26 spline input shaft -Lakewood adjustable clutch fork pivot ball -New throwout bearing when motor was rebuilt -Rearend rebuilt with all new bearings (~57k miles) -FMS 3.73 gears added at the same time -Black powder coated Billetflow IRS diff brace. -IRS center section polyurethane bushings -MGW shifter -Maximum Motorsports clutch cable and clutch cable adjustor -LDC clutch freeplay correction kit Suspension: -Maximum Motorsports tubular K-member with A-arms and coilovers (~75k miles) -Maximum Motorsports adjustable tie-rod ends and bump steer kit -Maximum Motorsports caster-camber plates -Stock cut springs in the rear (~1 coil) with isolators Wheels/Tires: -AFS chrome 18” factory replica wheels (18x9 front, 18x10.5 rear) – no curb rash on any, very light chrome separation in lug nut holes -General Exclaim UHP 275/35/R18 (front) – 5/32 tread -Toyo Proxes R888 305/35R18 (rear) – 3/32 tread (see note below) -Rolled rear fender lips Misc: -SCT X3 Power Flash tuner -Multi-position SCT chip -Window tint (~32%) -Maximum Motorsports full length weld-in subframe connectors w/ seat braces -Cobra emblem on front grille -Redline Tuning gas hood shocks -AEM wideband A/F gauge -Aeroforce Interceptor gauge (including 3 bar MAP sensor) -Autometer gauge cluster -New Duralast GT front brake pads (82k miles) -New alternator (~48k miles) -Maximum Motorsports low profile IRS bolts -New fuel filter at ~54k miles (possibly done since then) -Front and rear alignment (~75k miles) -Changed KB oil (~75k miles) -Various belts for different pulley combos -Dynamat Extreme sound deadener covering all interior surfaces of the car including the trunk and doors (except the roof panel) -Custom painted GT500 coil covers -I have nearly all instructions and receipts for anything aftermarket put on the car -Genuine SVT 03/04 Cobra owners manual -Easily gets 20+ mpg on the highway if you keep your foot out of it. -Within the last 6 months the car was sealed with Jescar Power Lock Plus polymer sealant and topped off with Collinite 845 insulator wax. Tune/Power/Track Times: The car will come with a couple different tunes; one by Ed Clark (one of developers/starters of SCT software) and another by Eric Brooks of Brooks Speed Tuning (now with HP Tuners). Both are 93 octane tunes for the street. Driveability is great with either tune. Honestly the only reason there are two tunes is because the previous owner wanted to have it retuned after the EGR delete and went with Eric Brooks because he was close. And depending on who buys the car and where they are located I’d probably recommend at least checking/updating the tune once you get it back home just to account for any changes due to elevation etc. On the dyno the car has consistently put down between 585 – 605 rwhp and 520 – 540 TQ with the 2# lower and 4# upper pulley setup (17 – 19 psi). The most recent dyno pull I did with the car just to check the A/F was in Aug. 2017 at Fastlane Motorsports and it put down 591/522 with ~18 psi of boost and I believe a mid 11 A/F. The more important numbers IMHO are the track times. The best ET to date was a 10.78 @ 134.6 mph w/ a 1.58 60ft on 17” M/T DR’s. That was with the 4#/4# pulley combo and a can of Torco. The pass after the one listed above the car actually trapped 134.89 mph but I just tapped the rev limiter before passing the line so I’m fairly certain it would do 135.X mph. And just as an FYI, the car weighs 3930 lbs with me in it. Ultimately the motor in this car is built to handle in excess of 800 rwhp. If you’re looking for more with the current setup just add more boost and E85. Or if you really want more power then upgrade the fuel system and get a bigger blower or add turbos and you’ll be good to go. As an aside, for those worried about the stock half shafts, the car has probably only made between 10-15 passes at the track ever and I’ve only ever pulled two 1.5X and three 1.6X 60 foots and those were made with some slipping of the clutch (ie not dead drops). I have not been to the track since the addition of the 18” wheels/tires (so it’s been 8+ years) so I don’t know what it will do on that combo. I am and always have been more of a street car kind of guy. I like to go to the track after new mods/etc just to see what kind of improvements have been made but for me the enjoyment is driving a car on the street. The car has also been to several HPDE track events at VIR and NCCAR (as recently as Sept 2017). No hiccups or issues (except a vac hose that did pop off once that I’ve since zipped tied on)… just drive and enjoy. The built motor has over 20k miles on it and has more than proven itself as reliable at this point. No leaking, no oil consumption, no issues. This car is well sorted and ready to drive across the country if one so chooses. And FINALLY… this car has been extremely well taken care of since the day it was converted. I am very meticulous with all of my cars and probably even a little OCD (might have something to do with being an engineer, lol). The bottom line is while this car may not be a “real” Terminator by VIN it is a perfectly executed clone with a very unique and like new paint job and essentially a better than factory motor with less only 20k miles on it. All modifications to this car have been well thought out and meticulously installed. This is a one of a kind car with a uniqueness that you’ll be hard pressed to find anywhere else. If you don’t like the price or think it’s too high for a “clone” please use some self-control and complain to someone else about it. I honestly do understand where you’re coming from but it isn’t necessary to clutter up my post with such comments. If I get no interested buyers then that in and of itself will tell me the price is too high. It’s a very difficult car to assess its “worth” and that’s coming from a guy who has done it twice now, lol. I’ve tried to price it comparably with other built-motor Terminators with relatively low mileage in super clean condition while taking into account that it is a clone. Asking Price: $19,500 FIRM (final drop) Current odometer mileage: 84,000 (that's 41k on paint/body and 21k on motor) Possible trade options: ’09 – ’14 Cadillac CTS-V. Prefer wagon but possibly a sedan. Less than 60k miles and preferably not black. Also want Recaro seats and an auto trans. Also might consider an ‘14+ SRT Charger or maybe an Audi S6. Additional Notes: -There is no lien on the car, I have the title in hand. -And regarding getting a loan for the car for a potential buyer… try Light Stream (a division of Suntrust Bank). They do non-collateral based loans, meaning as long as you have a reasonable debt-income ratio and good credit you can borrow whatever amount you like for a vehicle (they don’t even require specifics of what that car is). They just approve you for an amount and transfer the money into your account… it’s great! And their interest rates are very good as well. Using Light Stream, or other lending institutions like them, are the only way you’ll be able to get a loan on this car because given by VIN this is an ’01 V6 most banks will not lend you an amount even close to what the car is worth now. Or do to the branded title they may not be willing to do a loan at all. I feel like Ally Bank may also do loans like this but I’m not 100% sure of that. -As for insuring the car, most major insurance companies will allow you to add an additional value or stated value rider to your policy to cover the difference of what the "book value" of the car is and what you want it insured for. Or I've found the best and cheapest method is Haggerty's. They cover specialty and custom vehicles such as this exclusively and are likely better equipped to handle your claim in the unfortunate event something were to happen. -And FINALLY… thanks for taking the time to read my extremely lengthy ad (or for just jumping straight to the bottom to see the price ;-)). Please feel free to respond here, PM me or email me at [email protected] with any questions/concerns. Thanks, Ryan PICS ***I have many other pics. If there is something in particular you'd like to see just let me know, if I don't have it I'll take it.