Three General Questions - Take a Look...

[Willie]

Curious about a few things:
1) If the recommended minimum wheel width is 10.5 inches, would you mount these on a 10.0 inch wheel? I've heard both...
2) Does the rear axle assembly come stamped with a code that ties it to the VIN? If so, where is the stamping? Does anyone make a stronger bolt-in unit?
3) What are the factory valve covers made of? Are they powder coated?

Thanks all...!

 

[1st usa car]

1.) Yes, I would mount the tires but the shop you pick may not install them.

2 & 3 = I have no idea.

 

[Catmonkey]

1 - With low profile tires and high speed ratings, I don't go narrower than the manufacturer's recommendation. Generally, the narrower the rim within the recommendation range, the less precise the handling.

2 - I've yet to see it if it's there. I rather doubt it.

3 - The valve covers are aluminum or some aluminum alloy. I assume they're powder coated because the coating is more durable than paint, but I'm not positive on this one.

 

[JBN]

1)Yes, I’ve done it. If you already have the tires and just taking them to mount on your wheels, most shops won’t/don’t care unless it’s obviously unsafe. If purchasing from a tire shop and having them install, most will sell you whatever you want. Some may say no. I personally don’t know anyone who’s been refused.

2) I’ve been all over the rear axle and haven’t seen anything matching to the vin. All I’ve seen is the gear ratio sticker on the cover.

3) aluminum and powdercoated.

 

[Willie]

Thanks guys. You've helped me set a course of action on some future endeavors...

 

[RedVenom48]

I can tell you the Ford Blue powder coat isnt all that durable. Theres a few sections where mine is starting to peel bubble. Not a big deal as my car is a driver, not a show-er.

If youre thinking about rear end upgrades, Id go straight to a Strange 9" for S197, if you have the money of course.

 

[Willie]

I asked about the rear axle stamping because if it is tied to the VIN, I will do everything to keep my car numbers matching. But it appears Ford really doesn't do this, like my Camaros...
Anyways, I have 3.73's now and I cannot get my projected mph in the 1/4-mile with these, so was thinking of going back to the stock 3.31's. Not sure if it's worth the coin to do so, so was thinking maybe go with a stronger unit... Thanks for the recommendation... Money? Who has that?

 

[biminiLX]

3.73 to 3.31 is a huge jump. How much mph/rpm at stripe are you talking? Would likely be easier with a taller tire change if close to optimal otherwise.

I have my original rear in the garage, I'll inspect it for VIN markings but I don't think so.

Yes aluminum cam covers with less than durable paint I believe. I'd guess textured paint over powder coat simply based on coating failures I've seen in low mile/pampered applications
-J

 

[Willie]

Over 140 mph with no higher than 6,000 rpm's. 28.03" tall tires. Uncomfortable using my current 28.9" tall tires with a lowered car. #1 was not lowered and they were fine. #2 was lowered by prior owner. Can't do it with 3.73's. Maybe 3.54's??

I have my original rear in the garage, I'll inspect it for VIN markings but I don't think so.....
-J

I don't either but thank you for looking...

 

[Catmonkey]

You'd be at 139 at the specs you have above with 3.55s. 3.31s would put you at ~5,650 rpm at 140. I'm using specs on a 305/35-20 sized tire.

 

[RedVenom48]

@Willie Are you using bias slicks or radials?

 

[Willie]

Radials..

 

[Jam421]

On stock 9.5" rims MT told me despite recommending minimal 10" rims the negative result might be fatter sidewall width....maybe some negligible footprint. When I went to larger rims I swapped the MT DR's directly with no issues on either wheel.

 

[RedVenom48]

@Willie Maybe consider a set of bias slicks. They tend to expand a little at the top end of the track. Expansion might be enough that you don't need a regear to hit your ET and Trap speed.

 

[RedVenom48]

Hell, if your rear axle is clearanced for 15" wheels, i can bring my skinnies and slicks down to Tucson and see how your car performs on em. Hoosier 28x15x10.5 bias slicks with reinforced sidewall and front Hoosier 17" skinnies

 

[Willie]

My apologies guys. I have a long-term illness that keeps me down, sometimes for weeks at a time, that prevents me from basically getting out of bed...

@Willie Maybe consider a set of bias slicks. They tend to expand a little at the top end of the track. Expansion might be enough that you don't need a regear to hit your ET and Trap speed.

Here's the deal >> I took my car to the track a month or so ago, not to race but to talk to the tech inspection guys and have them look over my car to see if it would pass. My car now as a potential of running 9 seconds. I was told in order to pass, I would need an 8-point cage, a 5-point safety harness, a helmet (I knew this of course), AND an NHRA competition license.

So even though I've been selecting parts for my car to optimize it in the 1/4, I really don't want to make a permanent change like a weld-in cage. The rest of it, I can deal with. This means if I go with a set of slicks, I would not run them on the street and it would be money wasted... at least for now. So I am looking for street legal drag radials.

Hell, if your rear axle is clearanced for 15" wheels, i can bring my skinnies and slicks down to Tucson and see how your car performs on em. Hoosier 28x15x10.5 bias slicks with reinforced sidewall and front Hoosier 17" skinnies

Thanks so much for the offer, LT... Very much appreciated..!

 

[biminiLX]

MT now makes a 28.5" ET Street R bias ply in 17".
They fit 17x9.5" Racestar/Darkstars and could be a good option. I have them on 17x10.5" Darkstars and they work well but are stretched a bit.
You'll really enjoy a bias ply rear over a DR on our stick cars.
Better consistency and less parts breakage.
Good luck
-J

 

[Willie]

I'm sorry I wasn't more specific in my situation... Chances are virtually nil that I will ever run my car at the track again. The wheels I have on my car are 2008 chrome replicas I got way back when many sources manufactured them. I even picked up a pair of 18" x 10" (18" x 9.5" are stock) and had drag radials on them. That was many years ago when I was able to swap tires at the track. Now that those days are gone with my health what it is and not being able to pass tech, I thought the next best move would be dedicated drag radials, ones I could leave on the car all the time. And since I already have a pair of wheels identical to the ones I have on the car, I decided to go with 18" tires. I rarely drive the car and when I do, it's only in nice weather. I think I could have more fun on the streets with this setup.. you think?

 

[RedVenom48]

Id then have to recommend the NT05R. Drives much more like a "normal" tire on the road. Cornering is much more controlled. Really good grip and the wear seems to be pretty good considering its a traction oriented tire.

I think the Mickey Thompson R2 compound is the better rubber compound. I don't think their carcasses do corning near as well as the Nitto's do.

But if you aren't touring the car and are doing mostly city, the M/T ET Street S/S in whatever size you need would be the best grip tire for you.

 

[GT Premi]

Curious about a few things:
1) If the recommended minimum wheel width is 10.5 inches, would you mount these on a 10.0 inch wheel? I've heard both...
2) Does the rear axle assembly come stamped with a code that ties it to the VIN? If so, where is the stamping? Does anyone make a stronger bolt-in unit?
3) What are the factory valve covers made of? Are they powder coated?

Thanks all...!

1) I wouldn't, but if you do, you'll probably need to run higher air pressure to help counteract the extra sidewall flex and roll.
2) No, just the ratio. (But only on the diff cover, I think.)
3) Aluminum. Probably. Might just be heat resistant paint.