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Throw Out Bearing (TOB) Noise (bad design).

Discussion in 'Driveline' started by Tweaker, Aug 14, 2003.

Is your Throw-out Bearing noisy or has been replaced?

  1. YES!

    214 vote(s)
    77.8%
  2. NO.

    61 vote(s)
    22.2%
  1. MarlboroMan

    MarlboroMan New Member Established Member

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    My throw out bearing has been howling since I bought it. And the previous owner not knowing much about cars said that noise has been there for a long time. TOB 99% of the time only squeal because they are dry. Alot of mechanics seem to think they dont need to grease the bearing. Lithium grease(wheel bearing grease) should always be used. The only reason I havent replaced mine is because Im waiting so I can do the whole clutch at the same time. Ill put money on it when I put that clutch in there and I grease that bearing Ill never have a squeal again.

    Edit- One thing also to prevent noise is to try a steel retainer. With little lithium grease also, I think this may help with future squeals.
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2006
  2. mike79

    mike79 Evvverrrlonngg Established Member

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    The retainer on the car is made of heat treated steel. When the bearing starts to squeel, it strains the bearing, which inturn makes the TOB tube after time blow.
     
  3. MarlboroMan

    MarlboroMan New Member Established Member

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    Are you sure 03/04 OEM retainers are steel? Im almost willing to bet they are aluminum. Along with the tube.


    Right and like I said, bearings squeal because they are dry. By this time you already have your obnoxious noises. Then your tube is "botched". Thats why I said you should grease the bearing retainer and tube. It also wouldnt hurt to grease the shaft.

    :beer:
     
  4. mike79

    mike79 Evvverrrlonngg Established Member

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    Yes, heat treated steel (I beleive forged also)
    Mcleod makes a standard billet steel version which is a softer metal.

    BTW you mentioned a tube and a retainer. The tube is the retainer, unless you mean a different part? :shrug:



    I would hope when its installed that the person doing the installation would grease those areas...if not :bash: lol and they deserve it!
     
  5. MarlboroMan

    MarlboroMan New Member Established Member

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    Good catch. Make me look like a dumbass after Im trying to give knowledgable advice. :lol:

    That should be retainer/tube. Rather than, retainer and tube. The tube being the retainer sleeve that slides on the input shaft that the TOB slides on. Of course you already knew that. Thanks for pointing out my mistake. Now I feel like an idiot. :lol: :bash:

    :beer:
     
  6. mike79

    mike79 Evvverrrlonngg Established Member

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    Thanks I just spit my soda out :lol:
     
  7. 03CobraBro

    03CobraBro I'll cut your ass... Established Member

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    So what is the verdict here? What needs to be replaced or changed to get rid of this problem? (*sigh* mine finally fell victom too)
     
  8. 03CobraBro

    03CobraBro I'll cut your ass... Established Member

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    So 3 years worth of posts later and were still pretty much at square 1 eh? Not too promising...
     
  9. TT91

    TT91 So Slow Established Member

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    Paramus NJ
    I installed this mcloed ( http://www.lethalperformance.com/pa...od-t-56-throwout-bearing-retainer-sleeve.html) piece two weeks ago, along with a brand new centerforce TOB, and new mobil 1 fluid. Something in my tranny/tob just decided to shit itself while i was crusing home in 6th gear...im quite pissed. It makes a horrible grinding howling noise, simliar to a camshaft lope, in every gear, and nutreal, but not when the clutch is depressed. Will update this when the heat wave goes away and Im able to tear into it.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2006
  10. YGETV8

    YGETV8 Active Member Established Member

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    Please let us know what you find out!
     
  11. Moody03SVT

    Moody03SVT [email protected] Established Member

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    Location:
    Holly Springs
    It has been 3 years but it seems like the TOBs are just noisy, have not heard of a great deal of people saying they have froze. Most everyone hears them chirping and decides to replace them before things go wrong.

    Mine has chirped off and on for about a year now, I just bought and will installing CF DF, CF TOB, 26 spline, etc., etc., to make my noise go away (Oh, and to get my power back from 'Ole slippy' :pepper: )

    But I did NOT buy this input sleeve, thingy, aluminum, steel, shaft, mabob :bash: I will check to see if the stock one is in good condition and if I need to replace then I will but I doubt it.
     
  12. TT91

    TT91 So Slow Established Member

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    Time for a new trans, 4th gear and the gear cluster decided to let loose. ****
     
  13. YGETV8

    YGETV8 Active Member Established Member

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    Bummer. Out of curiosity, how does the throwout bearing and sleeve look?
     
  14. TT91

    TT91 So Slow Established Member

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    With only 200 miles on them since installation, they look brand new. When I installed the sleeve, I noticed 4th gear had some chippage on its gears...I guess I should have yanked it out then, instead of it wreaking havock.
     
  15. Moody03SVT

    Moody03SVT [email protected] Established Member

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    sorry to hear man

    I hate those situations where you wished you would have done something because you thought that looked a bit off...
     
  16. TT91

    TT91 So Slow Established Member

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    And mine isnt under warranty, D&D is getting the nod for a new unit.
     
  17. dew.man

    dew.man ... Established Member

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    Location:
    White Lake, MI
    After reading through this thread, and several hours of searching and reading other threads, I'm more confused then ever :shrug:

    With 10K miles on the car, it is often hard to find third unless I put my foot through the firewall. This is much more prominent at higher rpms or when the car is under load and I even missed second the other day at the track :cryying:

    Until last night, my clutch engagement point was right off the floor, and I still didn't have any play in the cable at the firewall. When I adjusted it for 1/8 inch of play per some of the posts here, the car would not go into gear at all!While working on it, I also found that adjusting the clutch cable length (be it via the firewall adjuster or adjustable cable) so that the engagement point is about half way in the pedal travel (where I want it), seems to take care of my shifting problem, but puts a good bit of a "pre-load" on the clutch fork.

    Now here's where I get confused: I've seen several posts that state that our cars are designed with "constant velocity tob" meaning that they are meant to always have some pressure between the tob and the pressure plate, but I have not seen any description of how much, other that "not too much". I have also read that there should be an 1/8" of play at the cable (which does not allow me to shift).

    So how do I know if my clutch is adjusted correctly? Is it safe to say that as long my clutch is engaging about half way, it is adjusted properly eventhough there's no slack in the cable? Will the resultant preload on the fork cause premature tob failure?

    Help a brother out:rockon:
     
  18. dew.man

    dew.man ... Established Member

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    I found a very good write-up on the very issue I was conused on, and am posting this for anybody that finds this thread later :thumbsup:

    Per Jeremy Thompson, A.K.A v8only at
    http://www.thompsontransmission.com/techarticles/clutchcableadjustment.html

    "there tends to be a lot of taboo surrounding clutch adjustment. A common myth is that you need slack in the cable. This is not completely true. The pressure plates are designed to have constant preload-cable pressure on them. If you have a loose cable with slack, your clutch will be adjusted too loosely, and will grab right off the floor, causing the clutch not to disengage all the way.
    ...
    1. Adjust the firewall adjuster to the left to tighten the cable. Tighten it until you feel pressure on the cable. If you have a locking type firewall adjuster, then you will need to screw the inner ring away from the firewall to unlock and adjust. If you’ve got the UPR quadrant, or any other that uses an allen wrench key to secure adjustment, loosen that.
    2. Get into the car. Press the clutch down, carefully and slowly. Really pay attention to the feel of the clutch. If you pay attention, right about where the clutch pedal is even in height with the brake pedal, the clutch pedal will suddenly get stiffer to press down. Everything before that point will feel kind of mushy. THIS IS KEY TO ADJUSTMENT! That point where the clutch pedal gets stiffer is where the clutch actually begins to disengage from the engine so you can shift gears.
    3. This is where it gets a little tricky, and personal preference takes over. The trick is to get it adjusted tight enough so that it disengages all the way, yet is not so tight that it is constantly disengaging (like riding the clutch).
    Most often, the most common way to adjust, is to adjust to within a half inch/inch of that disengagement point, so that you have just a tiny bit of slack in the cable.
    4. Properly adjusted, the clutch will begin to engage or grab about halfway up or so in its travel. If the clutch engages/grabs right off the floor, then you are adjusted too loosely, and if it engages/grabs way too high, then you are too tight, (or your clutch is toast if adjustment won’t fix that). A clutch that grabs right off of the floor will cause difficult putting into gears, will cause it to roll on flat surfaces, and will premature clutch wear, and transmission wear. On the other hand, a clutch that grabs too high can cause it to be constantly disengaging when driving, (just like riding the clutch pedal with your left leg) and will cause clutch wear. If you don’t feel that inch/half inch of play, you are too tight. Oppositely, if you have too much slack up top, you may not be disengaging all the way."
     
  19. mtl-biker

    mtl-biker New Member Established Member

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    Good post and good link i found what i need to know thanks buddy
    Mario
     
  20. einzatgroupen

    einzatgroupen 03 cobra Established Member

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    My car is really tough to get into any gear at idle, and damn near impossible to get into reverse! Would this result from a bad throwout bearing? This problem is killing me.:kaboom:
     

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