Tick issue

Sajin

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Just recently bought a mint all original numbers matching low mileage terminator that develops a tick at idle only when hot. Increasing rpm makes the noise go away. It’s already been to the ford dealership to have the engine noise diagnosed/fixed. Dealership ended up replacing all cam followers (lash adjusters) & rockers on passenger side head to attempt to quiet it down even though no damage was found on the original followers & rockers. Head, cams & #4 cylinder show no issues as well. Dealership told me to do vacuum pulls on the car to help pump up the lash adjusters.

This is what the car sounded like when I first got it...
Dropbox - Video Mar 04, 1 36 58 PM.mov - Simplify your life

And this is what the car sounds like after doing some vacuum pulls...
Dropbox - Video Apr 07, 12 14 03 PM.mov - Simplify your life

Still noisy but better than it was. Thoughts? Is it the tick?
 
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hotcobra03

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I haven't listened yet but
I don't recall any passenger side issues

I've had 3 heads on drivers

Passenger is original 4 thread with over 400k
 

hotcobra03

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I had a knock noise before also.
Was clutch bearing blew causing fork to bang against transmission.

Clutch bearing is very common
Along with the sleeve breaking.
Yours being low mileage may have original.

Sounds ugly.
Did ford do compression/leak down before touching it.

I say this because mine broke just before warranty ended.

I did the second time and so on

Being a first timer working on this motor is extremely simple ,

Haven't seen many threads on rod knock also on these ,
More a melted piston from modding past stock

Heads may not be all that easy to find

But can tell you the 3rd design has been flawless at 200k plus

These heads were 2 grand each from ford. Now discontinued
Luckily I got mine when ford racing had them at or vendors discount
1111.00 each these were complete ready to bolt on out of the box
 

Sajin

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Ford didn’t do a compression/leak down test. Just looked at the cylinder that was closest to the noise. No issues with it.
 

2011 gtcs

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Is that 10th anniversary cobra that had like 1,500 miles on it?

You said the noise quiets when you give it more gas? Have you put it on lift and actually listened to it from under the car?
 

hotcobra03

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Ford didn’t do a compression/leak down test. Just looked at the cylinder that was closest to the noise. No issues with it.

do one.

a basic test will show

mine purred at idle on 7 cyl s

a valve seat will drop, and piston will hit it and tap until it’s up enough to stop

I drove over 1000 miles with it like this before finding it

mine was a tap tap bang quiet

I have no idea what Ford did to find the first head I only had starting issues , it wouldn’t idle until warm

I had a 0 on cyl 6. Twice.
Had head repaired on my first time
It lasted but 70k later cyl 7 cracked this showed low compression 45psi less than others


There is some other items on timing chains that may be your noise ,

can’t say if any of those items breaking is enough for valve to piston

the chain adjuster (steel) vs plastic

there may be a new design cam to cam on passenger side

JDM ? Tensioner

than the guides for the chains ? Pivot pin upgrade?


modularfords has a lot of this information.
In cobra section. Very very helpful

Along with all you can link from facts/question
 

Sajin

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Is that 10th anniversary cobra that had like 1,500 miles on it?

You said the noise quiets when you give it more gas? Have you put it on lift and actually listened to it from under the car?
Yes, and no I haven’t did that myself as I had the dealer check it out.

do one.

a basic test will show

mine purred at idle on 7 cyl s

a valve seat will drop, and piston will hit it and tap until it’s up enough to stop

I drove over 1000 miles with it like this before finding it

mine was a tap tap bang quiet

I have no idea what Ford did to find the first head I only had starting issues , it wouldn’t idle until warm

I had a 0 on cyl 6. Twice.
Had head repaired on my first time
It lasted but 70k later cyl 7 cracked this showed low compression 45psi less than others


There is some other items on timing chains that may be your noise ,

can’t say if any of those items breaking is enough for valve to piston

the chain adjuster (steel) vs plastic

there may be a new design cam to cam on passenger side

JDM ? Tensioner

than the guides for the chains ? Pivot pin upgrade?


modularfords has a lot of this information.
In cobra section. Very very helpful

Along with all you can link from facts/question
Guess I’ll have the dealer do a compression/leak down test.
 

2011 gtcs

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Yes, and no I haven’t did that myself as I had the dealer check it out.


Guess I’ll have the dealer do a compression/leak down test.
It almost sounds to inconsistent to be a internal engine issue. What oil filter do you use? Did you notice the noise after a hard pull or did it just show up out of the blue.
 

Sajin

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It almost sounds to inconsistent to be a internal engine issue. What oil filter do you use? Did you notice the noise after a hard pull or did it just show up out of the blue.
OE filter... FL-820S. The noise was there since day one when I got the car. Car idles, and starts fine. No smoke. Engine sounds normal on cold start. Can let the car idle until normal operating temp and never hear noise until I take it for a 10 mile drive. After driving 10 miles it will only make noise at idle.
 

hotcobra03

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Go back to ford.
Share what information you have gotten.

my local dealer here I met with manager.

our oil cooler is said not to be fixable

our site has the parts list and the step by step on how to.

Them selling this car to you isn’t nice
 

2011 gtcs

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OE filter... FL-820S. The noise was there since day one when I got the car. Car idles, and starts fine. No smoke. Engine sounds normal on cold start. Can let the car idle until normal operating temp and never hear noise until I take it for a 10 mile drive. After driving 10 miles it will only make noise at idle.
Very odd, I know the GT500 5.4/5.8 has a tick issue, but usually replacing the lash adjusters fixes that, I've also seen aftermarket oil filters cause odd valve train noises. I have a feeling you're not going to find anything wrong with the compression test. The only other thing I can think it might be is one of the chain tensioners. The noise can resonate through the engine
 

MG0h3

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Almost sounds like a loose seat and timing chain noise.

Maybe the tensioners leaks down when it’s hot.

Someone asked if this was a low mile car. Is it?


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
 

Sajin

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Yes, the car has under 2000 miles on it. I want to note that the first video is when I first received the car off the truck from the person I bought it from. The second video is after ford replaced lash adjusters and rockers, and I did vacuum pulls.
 

MG0h3

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So hard to say without being there and using a stethoscope.

But unless it’s the video audio, there is a constant scrape/rattle. That usually indicates timing chain.

My brother just bought a 37k mike car and it was rattling at idle on two cold starts after he owned it a month.

Went away when he slightly raised RPMs.

I think it’s the chain tensioner but who knows, maybe it’ll never do it again.

Sounds like you have a more rhythmic tap in there as well.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
 

CobraBob

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Definitely isn’t head tick then. Mine sounds different. Hmm.
I posted that info because I wanted you to see that it likely wasn't the "tick issue". As already suggested, go back to the dealer with the info posted in this thread and have them do some diagnosis work.

So this car came to you with an Extended Warranty?

Did you talk to the previous owner about this?
 

Sajin

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The car isn’t under warranty. I did speak with the previous owner about it. Some updates on the issue...

Haven’t went to the dealer yet. Went out for a drive today to get the car nice and hot as it’s 84f today.

Did a lifter bleed procedure on the car which consisted of running the engine at 3500 rpm for 5 minutes at idle after getting the car up to temp. Coolant temps reached 235f at like the 4 minute mark, so I let off the throttle, and got out the car to check for the noise. The noise was gone at 235f coolant temp, but the noise returned once the car cooled back down to 210f coolant temp.

Did the above procedure a few times, and each time was able to get rid of the noise temporarily.

So the car doesn’t tick at cold start, and doesn’t tick even when idling to normal operating temp. Car must be driven 10 miles then the tick will start. Getting the car hot doing the bleed procedure makes the tick go away temporarily until the car cools back down.

Thoughts?
 
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hotcobra03

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222 is boiling. 228 I shut mine down

235 lucky you didn’t blow coolant


a compression tester is cheap.
Our plugs are the easiest ever to pull
Especially on a stock cobra

And who knows it could be a plug getting loose


I found my temperature gage in air vent reads my engine temperature when heat is on.

222 is some hot air

I did the 170 tstat. See 182. Heat isn’t the best in winter but our winter is nothing here in south texas
 

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