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SVT Shelby GT500
timing cover oops
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<blockquote data-quote="einehund" data-source="post: 15855381" data-attributes="member: 67302"><p>Well, shade tree mechanics work (little help from metallurgy, of course. Always need science to back it up)! I moved the radiator tank and intercooler tanks and tied them so they sat on top of the supercharger (I didn't have to drain either system), removed the radiator fan, loosened up the water pump belt, and the supercharger belt. I remove the 6-rib belt idler pulley that is directly above the 10 rib belt tensioner. I noticed that the ford racing tensioner had a different clocking position at rest than the stock tensioner, which made it impossible to install without removing that 6-rib belt idler.</p><p></p><p> With all the crap removed, there was plenty of room to work, which always makes the job easier. I had bought some 16 gauge and 14 gauge copper wire (as I wasn't sure which I would use) and cut 3 lengths of about 2 1/2 inches, which I folded in half, and used needle-nosed pliers to bend about 1/8 inch of each end 90* outward. The resulting shape looked like a V with the open end being about 3/8". I ended up using the 16 gauge and placed the copper in the stripped out hole on the timing cover so that one was 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock, one was 2 o'clock to 8 o'clock, and the third was 4 o'clock to 10 o'clock. the only pieces of the copper wire that was visible was the 1/8" tails of the wire. I then placed the Ford racing tensioner dowels in their respective holes, and then took a stainless steel M10x1.5x80 bolt and slid it in the retaining bolt hole of the tensioner. I pushed as hard as I could while tightening it by hand until I felt it grip/cut into the copper. At that point, I took a small hammer and gave the head of the bolt a decent whack. This sets the copper wire into the aluminum (as copper is harder than aluminum and will cut into it). Then I grabbed a normal wratchet and tightened it down. The stainless steel bolt simultaneously cut groves in the copper (as steel is harder than copper) and set the copper in the aluminum. I got it tightened down flush with the tensioner, and I then backed it out a quarter of a turn. Finally I grabbed my torque wrench and tightened it down to 30 ft. lbs (the only measurement I had found online).</p><p></p><p> Buttoned everything up, fixed my exhaust leak from my new-to-me MRT O/R H pipe (sounds goddamn glorious, by the way: like an entire heard of demons flying out of my exhaust!) and went to put some miles on the tensioner. Drove like a sane person until the engine and all fluids were up to operating temperature, and then proceeded to find the closest "end restriction" portion of the Autobahn. Although I was not able to test to the top of 4th and 5th gear (to see if the tensioner resolved my belt slip issue), I was able to do a few 25% throttle to WOT to 0% throttle romps to stress out the tensioner mount. I drove home, popped the hood, and waited a couple of hours for everything to cool down. I quickly moved the radiator fluid tank, and verified that the tensioner bolt was still at 30 ft lbs, which it was. I now consider the problem solved! Hope this long winded epic helps someone out in the future!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="einehund, post: 15855381, member: 67302"] Well, shade tree mechanics work (little help from metallurgy, of course. Always need science to back it up)! I moved the radiator tank and intercooler tanks and tied them so they sat on top of the supercharger (I didn't have to drain either system), removed the radiator fan, loosened up the water pump belt, and the supercharger belt. I remove the 6-rib belt idler pulley that is directly above the 10 rib belt tensioner. I noticed that the ford racing tensioner had a different clocking position at rest than the stock tensioner, which made it impossible to install without removing that 6-rib belt idler. With all the crap removed, there was plenty of room to work, which always makes the job easier. I had bought some 16 gauge and 14 gauge copper wire (as I wasn't sure which I would use) and cut 3 lengths of about 2 1/2 inches, which I folded in half, and used needle-nosed pliers to bend about 1/8 inch of each end 90* outward. The resulting shape looked like a V with the open end being about 3/8". I ended up using the 16 gauge and placed the copper in the stripped out hole on the timing cover so that one was 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock, one was 2 o'clock to 8 o'clock, and the third was 4 o'clock to 10 o'clock. the only pieces of the copper wire that was visible was the 1/8" tails of the wire. I then placed the Ford racing tensioner dowels in their respective holes, and then took a stainless steel M10x1.5x80 bolt and slid it in the retaining bolt hole of the tensioner. I pushed as hard as I could while tightening it by hand until I felt it grip/cut into the copper. At that point, I took a small hammer and gave the head of the bolt a decent whack. This sets the copper wire into the aluminum (as copper is harder than aluminum and will cut into it). Then I grabbed a normal wratchet and tightened it down. The stainless steel bolt simultaneously cut groves in the copper (as steel is harder than copper) and set the copper in the aluminum. I got it tightened down flush with the tensioner, and I then backed it out a quarter of a turn. Finally I grabbed my torque wrench and tightened it down to 30 ft. lbs (the only measurement I had found online). Buttoned everything up, fixed my exhaust leak from my new-to-me MRT O/R H pipe (sounds goddamn glorious, by the way: like an entire heard of demons flying out of my exhaust!) and went to put some miles on the tensioner. Drove like a sane person until the engine and all fluids were up to operating temperature, and then proceeded to find the closest "end restriction" portion of the Autobahn. Although I was not able to test to the top of 4th and 5th gear (to see if the tensioner resolved my belt slip issue), I was able to do a few 25% throttle to WOT to 0% throttle romps to stress out the tensioner mount. I drove home, popped the hood, and waited a couple of hours for everything to cool down. I quickly moved the radiator fluid tank, and verified that the tensioner bolt was still at 30 ft lbs, which it was. I now consider the problem solved! Hope this long winded epic helps someone out in the future! [/QUOTE]
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