Trinity article about motors blowing up

Fernando Limas

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2021
Messages
18
Location
Houston
i wouldn't worry about it with the built motor. Just get a fuel system and run the car on e85 and test your fuel at fill ups to verify you are getting good fuel. It will be pretty difficult to tear the motor up un less its just plain abuse.

If it makes a difference: in my OP I said I used 91octane (pump gas), but I Mis-typed that.... I am using 93 octane (pump gas)....
 

Luillo69

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2020
Messages
114
Location
Florida
I haven't heard much negative about L&M other than one member on here, but I think it had more to do with the shop that did the work than L&M. But that thread has been deleted so I don't remember everything that happened. I've definitely heard more negative about MMR than good. I've never heard anything negative about JDM engineering. They seem to be the best.

That’s exactly why I was thinking. Shit happens and then the vendors and suppliers gets neg rep, but 1 case or 2 usually is about the customer and or additional variables like installers etc. but 100% in JDM, they have been solid from the first time I heard of them back in 2007. Zero issues and great support.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Luillo69

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2020
Messages
114
Location
Florida
well that’s out of my budget. I’m more than happy with my 700rwhp toy. I’m hoping the new block + upgraded internals will do me right.

How much are you spending to upgrade the internals. I was about to check with JDM for them to use my block and see if I can save some money.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Fernando Limas

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2021
Messages
18
Location
Houston
Well I pulled the trigger. Gonna beef up the internals as listed here, adding cams, injectors, clutch, lowering springs, upper and lower control arms..... now the waiting game begins ; 3-4 months


Package
- Ford OEM 5.8L Engine Block
- Ford OEM Crankshaft (CJ)
- Diamond Pistons
- Manley I Beam Rods
- King Racing Rod and Main Bearings
- ARP Main Studs, Head Studs, Side Bolts
- Cometic Head Gaskets
- Machine Shop Services:
Balance Rotating Assembly
Torque Plate Hone Cylinders
Deck Cylinder Heads
- Removal and Disassembly of Engine
- Blueprint and Assembly of Short Block
- Assembly and Installation of Engine
- Ford OEM Oil Pickup Tube and Oil Cooler
- Break In Oil


Lesson learned:
Don’t shift at 7,000 rpm. Ever Again!
 

2011 gtcs

GT500 poster
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2011
Messages
8,453
Location
Arizona
Well I pulled the trigger. Gonna beef up the internals as listed here, adding cams, injectors, clutch, lowering springs, upper and lower control arms..... now the waiting game begins ; 3-4 months


Package
- Ford OEM 5.8L Engine Block
- Ford OEM Crankshaft (CJ)
- Diamond Pistons
- Manley I Beam Rods
- King Racing Rod and Main Bearings
- ARP Main Studs, Head Studs, Side Bolts
- Cometic Head Gaskets
- Machine Shop Services:
Balance Rotating Assembly
Torque Plate Hone Cylinders
Deck Cylinder Heads
- Removal and Disassembly of Engine
- Blueprint and Assembly of Short Block
- Assembly and Installation of Engine
- Ford OEM Oil Pickup Tube and Oil Cooler
- Break In Oil


Lesson learned:
Don’t shift at 7,000 rpm. Ever Again!
It's going to be a bad bitch with the new engine. You'll definitely be able to shift at 7k with that setup.
 

2011 gtcs

GT500 poster
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2011
Messages
8,453
Location
Arizona
Hell nah! Ima keep my shifts to 6,000rpm until I have an extra 20k or so laying around .....
The rods just suck in the stock GT500s. You having Manley Rods will take care of that, but I understand it's better to be safe than sorry. I really need to order a built JDM engineering bottom end
 

Dirks9901

Paint>Vinyl
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2005
Messages
5,033
Location
Colorado
Well I pulled the trigger. Gonna beef up the internals as listed here, adding cams, injectors, clutch, lowering springs, upper and lower control arms..... now the waiting game begins ; 3-4 months


Package
- Ford OEM 5.8L Engine Block
- Ford OEM Crankshaft (CJ)
- Diamond Pistons
- Manley I Beam Rods
- King Racing Rod and Main Bearings
- ARP Main Studs, Head Studs, Side Bolts
- Cometic Head Gaskets
- Machine Shop Services:
Balance Rotating Assembly
Torque Plate Hone Cylinders
Deck Cylinder Heads
- Removal and Disassembly of Engine
- Blueprint and Assembly of Short Block
- Assembly and Installation of Engine
- Ford OEM Oil Pickup Tube and Oil Cooler
- Break In Oil


Lesson learned:
Don’t shift at 7,000 rpm. Ever Again!

No big deal if you don’t wanna answer, but what’s the cost? Total cost as in removing and installing.


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

Cobra Therapy

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2020
Messages
395
Location
chicago illinois
Well I pulled the trigger. Gonna beef up the internals as listed here, adding cams, injectors, clutch, lowering springs, upper and lower control arms..... now the waiting game begins ; 3-4 months


Package
- Ford OEM 5.8L Engine Block
- Ford OEM Crankshaft (CJ)
- Diamond Pistons
- Manley I Beam Rods
- King Racing Rod and Main Bearings
- ARP Main Studs, Head Studs, Side Bolts
- Cometic Head Gaskets
- Machine Shop Services:
Balance Rotating Assembly
Torque Plate Hone Cylinders
Deck Cylinder Heads
- Removal and Disassembly of Engine
- Blueprint and Assembly of Short Block
- Assembly and Installation of Engine
- Ford OEM Oil Pickup Tube and Oil Cooler
- Break In Oil


Lesson learned:
Don’t shift at 7,000 rpm. Ever Again!
With the rods you can go past 7K and shift with no problems.
 

biminiLX

never stock
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2003
Messages
13,283
Location
Toledo, OH
Well I pulled the trigger. Gonna beef up the internals as listed here, adding cams, injectors, clutch, lowering springs, upper and lower control arms..... now the waiting game begins ; 3-4 months


Package
- Ford OEM 5.8L Engine Block
- Ford OEM Crankshaft (CJ)
- Diamond Pistons
- Manley I Beam Rods
- King Racing Rod and Main Bearings
- ARP Main Studs, Head Studs, Side Bolts
- Cometic Head Gaskets
- Machine Shop Services:
Balance Rotating Assembly
Torque Plate Hone Cylinders
Deck Cylinder Heads
- Removal and Disassembly of Engine
- Blueprint and Assembly of Short Block
- Assembly and Installation of Engine
- Ford OEM Oil Pickup Tube and Oil Cooler
- Break In Oil


Lesson learned:
Don’t shift at 7,000 rpm. Ever Again!
I’m assuming you forgot billet oil pump gears?
Compression?
Cams?
If you’re serious about only shifting at 6000, might as well save the cash and get a factory shortblock.
Great build though, give it enough octane and you’ll have 800rwhp capability pretty easy.
-J
 

Fernando Limas

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2021
Messages
18
Location
Houston
I’m assuming you forgot billet oil pump gears?
Compression?
Cams?
If you’re serious about only shifting at 6000, might as well save the cash and get a factory shortblock.
Great build though, give it enough octane and you’ll have 800rwhp capability pretty easy.
-J

i am getting cams as stated. My builder didn’t recommend billet oil pump gears. I’ll have to ask about it. Well i figure if I set my shift point to 6000 rpm I’d really end up shifting at no more than 6500 or so by the time I react. I never claimed to be a fast shifter

not interested in e85 as it requires a whole new set up. Not wanting to go that deep down the rabbit hole.

My goal is to have a strong “bullet proof” block (I know it’s not really a thing) that will take a minor beating when I decide to give it. It’s a weekend toy that will destroy most things in its path. I’m good with 700-775rwhp.

Hopefully my set up will get me there.

I’ll keep it on 93Octane pump gas.

I appreciate everyone’s input. Keep the knowledge coming in. Sadly I never took the time to learn about my 1st motor. If I had I would have known not to shift at 7000rpm with the stock internals

gotta pay to play tho....
 

cj428mach

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2012
Messages
7,609
Location
Kansas
Cool story. o_O


It seems silly to think a 2013-14 GT500 is the last real Shelby because they were the last ones built while he was alive. Is a Trinity GT500 not a Ford? because Henry was in the ground decades before they were ever built. If a person wants to think a Trinity car is more important than the 2020 GT500 because it was built while CS was still a live more power to them but thats Silly. Shelby hasn't been building the Mustang for decades.
 

Dirks9901

Paint>Vinyl
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2005
Messages
5,033
Location
Colorado
It seems silly to think a 2013-14 GT500 is the last real Shelby because they were the last ones built while he was alive. Is a Trinity GT500 not a Ford? because Henry was in the ground decades before they were ever built. If a person wants to think a Trinity car is more important than the 2020 GT500 because it was built while CS was still a live more power to them but thats Silly. Shelby hasn't been building the Mustang for decades.


I won't go as far as saying the 13-14 was the last real Shelby but the 13-14 GT500 was the last one he had any involvement whatsoever in. Even if that's only 0.01%. People can downplay that all they want but it's still something to note.

There were quite a few "firsts" that make 13-14 GT500's a special car.
 

cj428mach

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2012
Messages
7,609
Location
Kansas
I won't go as far as saying the 13-14 was the last real Shelby but the 13-14 GT500 was the last one he had any involvement whatsoever in. Even if that's only 0.01%. People can downplay that all they want but it's still something to note.

There were quite a few "firsts" that make 13-14 GT500's a special car.

The 13-14's are great/special cars but to me it has nothing to do with the Shelby name. They are a great combination of looks, power, refinement, and modern tech. I looked hard at buying one a year ago when they were cheap because of the 2020 release but what kept me from pulling the trigger was too modern for me, and the stock motor not being able to handle more than my Terminator motor. If I was going to go buy a more modern Mustang it would be a 2013 Boss 302 or a 13-14 GT500, amazing looking cars with the ability to make some power.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread



Top