My car has had trouble starting the last couple times this week. It currently has 84k miles. Battery is charged and everything works great once started. It has been under 40 degrees out when this has happened. I turn the car to the on position like normal, hear the fuel pump, then go to start it and it won’t turn over. After a few tries it starts fine. It did this yesterday after work, then I started the car perfect probably 5-6 times throughout my day and it didn’t want to again leaving work and a few hours later leaving dinner. About a year ago it would give me issues every once and a while where it wouldn’t start till the second try on rare occasions (I drive the car every day). Any things to check. Alternator was replaced not super long ago as well as battery and they both just tested good.
Trouble starting this week
- Thread starter antiv6
- Start date
What is considered passing? A D- is considered passing in school.
My point is just because it passed doesnt mean its up to the task. You state your having problems starting the car in cold weather. Makes me think that the battery is worn down not getting the full CCA that its rated for.
Other options to look it are your cables. Any corrosion? Are there tight enough? Are both ends of the cables tight? What about the starter? Starter solenoid?
It could be a bad battery. It happens. I had a new Duralast go bad in the wife's 06 after only a few months. It was replaced under warranty. Do you have a trickle charger? If so leave it on the battery over night and see if it is any better in the morning.
are you saying it cranks over fine but doesnt run on first try.
Here’s a video from this morning. After it started it drove perfectly 40 mins in traffic to advance auto near my work. Battery and alternator tested good. CCA 515. After the video the car was started twice after my drive. First time it started on the second try and the second time it fired right up.
Has it been cold where you live lately? Had an issue a couple years ago with my car not wanting to start like yours. Mine would do like yours does, and would crank and crank, then start. Noticed it would only happen when it was under about 55 degrees or so outside. Then the next time I drove it, it was a little colder out, say a day where it was warmer in the morning and then the temp dropped throughout the day to 45 degrees. It wouldn't start at all. I pushed it inside for the night (work at a shop) and came in the next day and it fired up no problem, with it being 70 inside the building. Come to find out, one of the crank position sensor wires was backing out of the connector and making poor contact depending on the outside temperature. Replaced the connector and all is good. Might be something to take a quick look at.
were any of your grounds upgraded?
ground wire from battery to radiator support.
i found on mine burned up on the inside over time.
i ran a larger wire. i noticed this made a huge difference with volts and things working.
ground wire from battery to radiator support.
i found on mine burned up on the inside over time.
i ran a larger wire. i noticed this made a huge difference with volts and things working.
The ground wires seem fine, they are all factory. The clamps for the positive and negative terminal were replaced about a year ago. No corrosion is present currently. It’s been under 50 degrees the last couple days, 32ish at night. I’ll look around at the wires again tonight. The video posted was in freezing weather but the car sat in my garage all night so it wasn’t super cold.
Sounds like it's cranking plenty fast. I dont hear it even trying to fire. Most likely you either don't have fuel or spark; the repeated cranking allowing a start and increased crank time required after sitting makes me lean towards fuel.
I can't hear the fuel pump prime but you said it is. You should have enough fuel pressure to start the car from one key cycle. The system should hold fuel pressure; cycling the key to prime the pumps isn't done by 99.9% of the population and this doesn't result in extended cranking.
I'd rent a fuel pressure gauge from a parts store. You can get a general idea if you have fuel pressure or not by depressing the schrader valve after you cycle the key but it can be messy.
I can't hear the fuel pump prime but you said it is. You should have enough fuel pressure to start the car from one key cycle. The system should hold fuel pressure; cycling the key to prime the pumps isn't done by 99.9% of the population and this doesn't result in extended cranking.
I'd rent a fuel pressure gauge from a parts store. You can get a general idea if you have fuel pressure or not by depressing the schrader valve after you cycle the key but it can be messy.
Thanks for all the responses so far! It took a bunch of tries to start when leaving work today as well. I could definitely hear the fuel pump prime when in the on position. There was pressure when I pressed the valve on the Schaefer valve, I’d say as much as when I changed the fuel filter last time so that seemed normal. I tested all the grounds around the battery with a multimeter and everything seems to be getting a good connection. Still running great once started.
No codes? Does it sound like its cranking fast enough to you? Hard to tell as there was echoing in the video.
I'd move to checking for a crank signal during the no start.
To me it doesnt even sound like its firing. Why continued cranking results in a start is interesting.
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I'd move to checking for a crank signal during the no start.
To me it doesnt even sound like its firing. Why continued cranking results in a start is interesting.
Sent from my SM-G950U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
You can just jack the front of the car up a little. The crank sensor is on the right side, near the a/c compressor. For checking crank signal, take a look at your tuner, you might be able to see an RPM reading there depending on what tuner you have?
With the colder temps you have, sounds almost exactly like what was going on with my car.
The suggestion above regarding using the handheld may work.
I used to be a tech so wed use the scope as it puts out a wave. Not sure if you can use a multi meter or not; probably cant read it quick enough.
Google and see if there is a simple test. I'd look at cam sensor as well.
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Part 3 -How to Test the Crankshaft Position Sensor (Ford 4.6L, 5.4L)
Here ya go.
You'll see in the article that you can verify a crank signal by testing for fuel and spark. But if you dont have fuel or spark it doesnt necessarily mean the crank sensor is bad.
Might save you time though.
Basically both leads back probed into the sensor plug. Crank. You're looking for .5-1v. It should be oscillating. Meter on AC.
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Here ya go.
You'll see in the article that you can verify a crank signal by testing for fuel and spark. But if you dont have fuel or spark it doesnt necessarily mean the crank sensor is bad.
Might save you time though.
Basically both leads back probed into the sensor plug. Crank. You're looking for .5-1v. It should be oscillating. Meter on AC.
Sent from my SM-G950U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Thanks I’ll look into that. I haven’t messed with that yet but I just changed the fuel filter and it fired up instantly, didn’t hesitate for even a second. Hoping that was it but the weathers bad so I won’t know till tomorrow. Till I can mess with it more. Thanks
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