TVS Build

[Iamchris]

A couple years back I started a thread to get some ideas on a build... long story short I put the build off and bought a Viper. Well, here I am again.

I picked up a TVS 2.3 yesterday.. so blower choice is out of the way. I am looking to make around 600 on pump and around 700 on e85. Which is pretty much the baseline for every 2.3 TVS. It is a sweet spot for these cars.
I dont want to get into big money on the motor on trans so this will be ideal without going overboard.

The car has SLP catback, high flow X, high boost JLT, accufab TB, LFP dual pass heat exchanger, ect..
Stuff I have:
TVS 2.3
Accufab TB
SCT3000 MAF
Level 2 Fore return kit with fuel rails
ID1000's
McLeod RXT
TOB, pilot bearing, TOB sleeve
Clutch cable, quadrant, adjuster, adjustable pivot ball
Input shaft, bearing and shim kit

I am really open to suggestion here. Especially on the fuel system. I dont need to build a 1000hp system. I want it to be stable and reliable, but I don't plan to go past 700hp or so with e85.

On the tuner... I had some suggestions to go to Performance Dyno in NH... which I'll look into. Considering I want dual tunes, what will I need for the car? Do I need a handheld tuner AND a dual bank chip? Any suggestions there?
Am I missing anything here?

I am going struggle through doing the work for the build. I was an aircraft mechanic so I have some skill with my hands, but I am going to be pretty reliant on using literature and guides to get all of this accomplished.

UPDATE: Everything is bought, mostly... I need a few little things, like the EGR contour plate for the TVS. I am planning to have the flywheel surfaced with McLeod but part of me is leaning toward getting a new one to avoid the hassle.
I have the car pulled apart right now, just for the clutch install.
Once the clutch/trans it done I'll drive it a bit to break in the clutch before starting the supercharger/fuel install. Depending on how it goes the supercharger could be late summer since I have a short deployment coming up.

 

[Iamchris]

Does anyone know if the Fore systems come with some literature to follow for install? I know lethal does. I'm going to need something to go off or I'll end up frankencobra... at least until it burns to the ground when I try to start it.

 

[termcobra281]

Just go to lethalperformance.com and get the lethal budget style fuel system, it has pretty much everything you need and that system will run gas or e85, takes all the guess work out and for your needs it will work great..

 

[BlksvtCobra01]

Nothing against Lethal but I know a lot of people say to go with Fore. @cj428mach @ Bdubbs @Zemedici


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[roy_1031]

Go with a Fore fuel system...


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[Real98roush]

Does anyone know if the Fore systems come with some literature to follow for install? I know lethal does. I'm going to need something to go off or I'll end up frankencobra... at least until it burns to the ground when I try to start it.

Yes, they provide install schematics


IG: @sn95mystic

SVTP: SN95 Rollercoaster

 

[bigmoose]

Go with the fore system. It's the gold standard for our cars. Do it once and do it right. PM malcolmv8 as he is a dealer and will get you a good price. He also has a thread on how to install it dead head which I recommend.

I had Pete at performance Dyno tune my car and the deadhead setup works fine for him. Basically you'll only need an SCT handheld. Call him up and he'll send you a driving tune to get it up there on 93 fuel. He'll tune it for gas then drain and tune for e85. Bring a tank of e85 and and an empty or two to drain the 93.

 

[Iamchris]

Go with the fore system. It's the gold standard for our cars. Do it once and do it right. PM malcolmv8 as he is a dealer and will get you a good price. He also has a thread on how to install it dead head which I recommend.

I had Pete at performance Dyno tune my car and the deadhead setup works fine for him. Basically you'll only need an SCT handheld. Call him up and he'll send you a driving tune to get it up there on 93 fuel. He'll tune it for gas then drain and tune for e85. Bring a tank of e85 and and an empty or two to drain the 93.

Good info! How does he drain the fuel? Do I need to rig a drain into the fuel system or does he just pump it out?

 

[Zemedici]

Nothing against Lethal but I know a lot of people say to go with Fore. @cj428mach @ Bdubbs @Zemedici


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This. Do it right and only do it once.

 

[MalcolmV8]

You'll want a Fore fuel system for sure. Nothing better out there for our cars. Quality and function is second to none.

 

[Iamchris]

You'll want a Fore fuel system for sure. Nothing better out there for our cars. Quality and function is second to none.

I'm told you are the man that can get me started with a fuel system. I am open to any suggestions you have for a safe e-85 capable fuel system. I am shooting for 700 on e85.

I did shoot a mail out to Pete at Performance Dyno, to see if he has any suggestions as well, since he is the guy I'd like to take the car to for a tune.

 

[MG0h3]

Does anyone know if the Fore systems come with some literature to follow for install? I know lethal does. I'm going to need something to go off or I'll end up frankencobra... at least until it burns to the ground when I try to start it.

To a point. They don't show you where to run your lines or anything like that.

My car is on stands for the clutch so I'll snap a bunch of pictures for you.

It's not hard, just takes awhile because you're deciding where to route everything as you go. I had the least confidence in putting the hose ends on as all the videos I watched had a cleaner cut. Ended up working fine and I pressure tested it to the max psi I could get out of the reg.

Check out Malcolms thread on lowering fuel temps and wiring for factory prime. If you do deadhead, order an extra 6' of hose. The kit doesn't account for that.

 

[Iamchris]

To a point. They don't show you where to run your lines or anything like that.

My car is on stands for the clutch so I'll snap a bunch of pictures for you.

It's not hard, just takes awhile because you're deciding where to route everything as you go. I had the least confidence in putting the hose ends on as all the videos I watched had a cleaner cut. Ended up working fine and I pressure tested it to the max psi I could get out of the reg.

Check out Malcolms thread on lowering fuel temps and wiring for factory prime. If you do deadhead, order an extra 6' of hose. The kit doesn't account for that.

Great info and pictures would be absolutely appreciated. I already read and saved Malcoms deadhead post. The only other concern I have with that, someone seemed to be concerned about the risk of the FPR dying and causing a catastrophic failure. I think Malcolm said it wouldnt happen, but to be honest I didnt fully understand.

 

[MalcolmV8]

The only other concern I have with that, someone seemed to be concerned about the risk of the FPR dying and causing a catastrophic failure. I think Malcolm said it wouldnt happen, but to be honest I didnt fully understand.

There's always someone mucking up the waters and confusing things. If the FPR fails it really doesn't matter if it's before or after your rails. You're loosing fuel pressure. I'm not even sure why that's of concern. In 20+ years of playing with hot rods I've yet to see one just fail and dump all pressure. I mean heck OEM setups were FPR based for how many decades?

 

[Iamchris]

There's always someone mucking up the waters and confusing things. If the FPR fails it really doesn't matter if it's before or after your rails. You're loosing fuel pressure. I'm not even sure why that's of concern. In 20+ years of playing with hot rods I've yet to see one just fail and dump all pressure. I mean heck OEM setups were FPR based for how many decades?

Thanks for the response. Like I said, I dont know one way or another... I'd be guessing.

 

[bigmoose]

Good info! How does he drain the fuel? Do I need to rig a drain into the fuel system or does he just pump it out?

With your goals you'll be fine with the stock rails. The stock passenger rail has a valve that can be removed. Just put a hose on it and turn on the key.

If you wire in the return system to prime like stock from malcoms other thread I'd recommend adding a bypass switch to keep the relay on for the pumps.

 

[MG0h3]

With your goals you'll be fine with the stock rails. The stock passenger rail has a valve that can be removed. Just put a hose on it and turn on the key.

If you wire in the return system to prime like stock from malcoms other thread I'd recommend adding a bypass switch to keep the relay on for the pumps.

If you end up with a hobbs switch, you can just jumper it with a mini fuse. Thats what I did to do a pressure/leak test anyways.

 

[03' White Snake]

Go to Pete, he knows these cars inside and out. He tunes my car. 2.8 KB, I made 612 on 93 and 694 on corn. New build under way, but will be going back to him for sure.

I made a hose that I screw into my aftermarket fuel rail and pump the gas out to swap between fuels. Literally takes 5 mins to setup to pump out the tank.

Definitely call Pete and talk over your plans with him. He will guide you in the correct direction. He knows what works and is the best bang for your buck.

Nothing your planning on installing is very complicated, so you should be alright there. I think it is Pete's cousin has a shop next door to his dyno that can help you out if you run into issues.

 

[Bdubbs]

Check out my build thread. I replied to it today. It should be easy to find. I ended up doing dead head setup.

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[SVTdreamin04]

Dead head setup is the way to go. I just finished mine this weekend. My fuel pump is a happy camper now.


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