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Update on TOB and retainer sleeve

Discussion in 'Driveline' started by Black2003Cobra, Jul 28, 2004.

  1. Coiled03

    Coiled03 Well-Known Member Premium Member Established Member

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    That's what I got for a rental, too. A POS Tore-Ass. :D I guess it could be worse. I could be driving a Neon or something.
     
  2. Blk03SVTCobra

    Blk03SVTCobra New Member Established Member

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    True that. I guess I feel better now :-D

    But I still want my car back!! :(
     
  3. tu212

    tu212 New Member Established Member

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    My cobra is in for this same piece among a few other things. I also got the toreass rental. I feel your pain. LOL
     
  4. Stang2WRX

    Stang2WRX New Member Established Member

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    It's listed as 4.5 hours in the TSB (thats for retainer sleeve only)
     
  5. 03DOHC

    03DOHC Moderator Established Member

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  6. Blk03SVTCobra

    Blk03SVTCobra New Member Established Member

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    03DOHC - I'm not sure that you could be much more helpful. :D

    Thanks a ton bro.... This thread should be a sticky perhaps, seeing as this is an all-too-common problem and pretty much all the info you need is right here.

    Just a thought :-D
     
  7. Blk03SVTCobra

    Blk03SVTCobra New Member Established Member

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    Well, it's Thursday (1 week and 2 days total time) and I still don't have my car back. The Taurus is getting on my every last nerve. In fact, does anyone else feel so much more unsafe in the Taurus (or any car with handling characteristics less than our Cobras) than in their Cobra? Don't know how to explain it, but I do...

    Talked to my guy at Sheehy and he said I would probably have the car back before the weekend. I'm hoping that the reason he hasn't called yet is because he's working on the car to make sure that's possible. I am probably getting on his nerves because in the last week and 2 days, I've called him all of 5 times.

    I want my car back:cryying:
     
  8. jordanvraptor

    jordanvraptor New Member Established Member

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    After having my T56 replaced because the TOB sawed through the input shaft sleeve, I thought I heard it squealing again. This time Ford replaced the Pilot Bearing in the clutch. Anyone heard of that?
     
  9. Coiled03

    Coiled03 Well-Known Member Premium Member Established Member

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    The pilot bearing is in the back of the crank, not the clutch. It's where the input shaft of the transmission connects to the crank.
     
  10. PDubs

    PDubs New Member Established Member

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    Mine seems to come and go with the weather. That is to say, if it is cooler than it was the day before, I will hear the TOB squeal for the first ten minutes of warm up.
     
  11. jordanvraptor

    jordanvraptor New Member Established Member

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    My bad. I was trying to remember what they told me. Probably was what the service writer told me cause you know they don't know jack half the time. I have to take it in again monday cause now its squealing. Makes the noise only when its rolling even if in neutral. Sounds like a noisy belt but its not. They also chipped my paint. Gotta love the dealerships huh?
     
  12. Blk03SVTCobra

    Blk03SVTCobra New Member Established Member

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    Now THAT would piss me off beyond almost anything else they could do.... I'm pretty sure I would go to jail if I got my car back from the dealership with a chip in the paint.....:cuss: :mj: :kaboom: :burn: :bash:

    That might be just me though :shrug:
     
  13. mike79

    mike79 Evvverrrlonngg Established Member

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    If the input shaft sleeve breaks, and your car is no longer under warrenty, what can be done to fix it?
     
  14. gmurphy65301

    gmurphy65301 New Member

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    tsb 04-13-4

    Just got my cobra back from the shop. The mechanic started at about 8:00 a.m. and completed the job at 5:20 p.m. Guess what? They put two (2!) nasty, but fortunately not deep, scratches on my driver-side door! They sent me to the body shop and I have an appointment in the morning to get the scratches buffed out--at their expense!

    I have only put on about 20 miles since the cover plate and tob was replaced, but have not noticed any tob rattle (yet!). Will keep you all updated.


    P.S.: I want to thank all who have posted on this thread as this is where I learned that other 2003/04 cobra owners were having the same tob problems as me! You guys got me on the right track and after learning about the tsb, I went down to the dealer the very next morning and told them about the tsb (they did not know anything about it!)

    Another P.S.: I installed a Steeda short-throw shifter and quick-release clutch quadrant w/firewall adjuster after the last tob install but before the tsb came out. Not a word was said to me about these after market items when I brought it in for the tsb. Everything was done under warrenty. (Just to be safe, though, I did use a tread-depth guage to measure my front and rear tire depth--both f/r measured 8/32--so they could not use that excuse against me!)

    One final P.S.: After leaving the shop for the tsb work, I took her out on the highway and got up to 90 mph...no vibration!

    Thanks again cobra lovers!:bowdown:
     
  15. racerat

    racerat 200+mph Boss-O-Matic! Established Member

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    Buy the part and fix it yourself.
    fwiw...got mine covered under warranty. :)
     
  16. Blk03SVTCobra

    Blk03SVTCobra New Member Established Member

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    Just a little update on my situation...

    Got off the phone with J.D. at Sheehy Ford. My car's finally ready!! I asked him to do the following work:

    1) TSB 04-1-34 (TOB, Retainer Sleeve, etc)
    2) Check driveshaft for the infamous 80+ MPH vibe
    3) Take off wheel weights on outside of wheels and replace with inside wheel weights

    The results of the TSB repair were that I got a new clutch (due to premature wear), TOB and retainer sleeve. The driveshaft was determined to be fine, but they "rebalanced" it anyways. As for the wheel weights, and this is the kicker..... He said that two of the tires on the car right now could not be made to balance properly with the inside wheel weights (they were taking more than 6oz of weight), so he couldn't balance them with the inside ones, only the outside ones. He said that I would need to get new tires to balance them properly with the 6oz weights.

    Does anyone know anything about tire/wheel balancing?? Is this service guy not being honest, or is he? I would rather avoid spending $500 to buy the new tires, mount them and balance them.... I would really appreciate any help you all could lend on this one...

    Other than that, I'll let you guys know if I hear any squealing or notice a difference in ease of shifting when I get her back today after work.
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2004
  17. Coiled03

    Coiled03 Well-Known Member Premium Member Established Member

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    It's possible he's being honest. More likely, it's a combination of tires, and wheels. I'd take it to a different tire balancing place to see what they can do with it before dropping $500 on new tires.
     
  18. Black2003Cobra

    Black2003Cobra New Member Established Member

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    Blk03SVT - glad to hear you finally got your car back. Yeah, please report back on how the TSB works out for you. Mine goes in Monday.
     
  19. JoeNashville

    JoeNashville Ghostrider Established Member

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    OK guy, here's a reply from someone who has "been there, done that":

    Don't put your wheel weights on the inside only.

    The deal is, when a tire is manufactured, there is no way to evenly distribute the rubber across the carcass to a tolerance of less than one ounce per linear inch. If they did do that, then tires would cost WAY more than they do already. TRANSLATION: we all have to use wheel weights and techs to install and balance our rotating stock in the field, using both inside and outside weight.

    The rubber in the very outer portions of the tire is even for the most part, but does vary not only from one side to the other radially but also axially. When looking at a mounted tire on your vehicle, the edge of the tire that you *can* see will have more/less mass than the edge you *can't* see. Hence, there is a wheel weight, approximately the same mass as the imbalance, on the opposite side of the wheel on the other side. Often, techs will even split the required weight across the rim axially. This results in an exceptionally well balanced tire.

    So, if you ask the wheel weights to only be placed on the inside of the wheel then the tire will be somewhat balanced radially but may be totally imbalanced axially. The end result will be axial vibration (felt through the steering wheel or seat as a vibration depending on which end of the car the imbalance is on), and if left unchecked will result in prematurely worn wheel bearings and ball joints for the steering rack (worst case scenario). Axial vibration is from side to side (or roughly yaw if you fly an aircraft), while radial vibration is up and down. Radial vibration, when severe, makes the tire appear as if it is hopping down the road rather than rolling.

    A very good way to balance without using rim lip weights is to balance exactly in the center of the rim. Check out sportbikes at your local powersports dealer and you would see what I mean...the rim weights are placed on the rim bead in the exact mass center of the rim. The weights are usually very small, and I have never had an imbalanced carcass even after a sportbike tire is well worn (sometimes I have to ride a while on a worn tire, they last around 8K on a sportbike with a sticky compound). However sportbike tires are much narrower than the the wide tires that we have on our Cobras, which brings us back to square one.

    Add in the fact that some of the vibration problems that we have been having with our Cobras have been attributable to out-of-spec tire carcasses stock (i.e., the Goodyear F1s), and to balance a stock type tire with inside weight only could turn into a big problem.

    So...the only way to balance without outside weights is to ask your tech to use inside the rim stick-on weights (stuck in the exact center of the rim, which would be difficult to achieve for a Ford tech). This should be 80-90% of what is really required, and will work for most of us that don't use our cars for the Silver State Classic. Hope this helps...
     
  20. Blk03SVTCobra

    Blk03SVTCobra New Member Established Member

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    Well guys.... I finally got my baby back today. The ticket read as such:

    "R&R TRANSMISSION AND REPLACED THROW OUT BEARING AND INSTALLED REVISED ADAPTOR PLATE

    PARTS:
    1 F7ZZ-7548-AA HUB & BRG ASY- F7ZZ
    1 3R3Z-7005-AA CSE TRANS FROM 3R3Z"

    The difference in depressing the clutch and going in and out of gear is just phenomenal. I hope this thread has helped a lot of people out. I have no squealing anymore and the clutch actually feels smooth as butter for pretty much the first time.

    Later fellas... :beer:
     

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