Upgrading Factory Stereo Without Replacing Headunit? [Technical Question]

[Mashburn94]

I've been looking at doing a system in my car also. As far as getting controll of the crossovers, For me the best option is to integrate a rockford 360.3 signal processor. It will connect to your factory radio, and make the signal coming out of the processor balanced. Then just run new amp/amps for your speakers and sub. The JL ZR800 is a direct drop in from what I have read, all you have to do is cut the back of the dorr sub box out to allow it to breath and let it run as an IB setup.
Also the processor is 31 parametric band eq with L/R adjustment, phase, and time alignment.

 

[TheVikingRL]

I've been looking at doing a system in my car also. As far as getting controll of the crossovers, For me the best option is to integrate a rockford 360.3 signal processor. It will connect to your factory radio, and make the signal coming out of the processor balanced. Then just run new amp/amps for your speakers and sub. The JL ZR800 is a direct drop in from what I have read, all you have to do is cut the back of the dorr sub box out to allow it to breath and let it run as an IB setup.
Also the processor is 31 parametric band eq with L/R adjustment, phase, and time alignment.

Do not cut the back of the door sub enclosure open. The ZR800's will fit with very little modification. Follow the links I posted and you will see some additional detail on the install. All IB in the door is going to accomplish is lots of rattles and less control over the speaker. They are designed to operate in small enclosures and perform well, which they do.

 

[TheVikingRL]

What's the difference in audiocontrol's different units like the Lc7i vs matrix?

They are at polar opposite ends. The Matrix is a line driver design to clean up and amplify a preamp signal. The LC7i is designed to take speaker level signals, clean up and output a (summed) line level signal. What you'd always prefer is to start with a line level signal if possible. That's easy to do with the Shaker 500 output since there is a preamp signal you can tap into. Not as easy to do with the 4 channel outputs since they come out of the radio at speaker level (no external amp). As I mentioned earlier, it is possible to reprogram the radio to output a balanced line level signal. But about impossible to get a Ford tech who knows how to do it.

 

[Mashburn94]

Thanks for the info on that. Thats just what I have read, no experience in this car. If you've done a system in your car, do you have a build log by chance?

 

[TheVikingRL]

I do and I wish I had time to document everything properly. Basic rundown:
JL ZR800's in the door and rear deck (bolted underneath with adapters I fabricated)
JL ZR525CSi in the upper doors with tweeters in the sail panels
JL Stealthbox in the truck, which I usually have out of the trunk to fit other stuff
1 XD600/6v2, 1XD600/1v2, 1 XD400/4v2, all mounted up under the rear deck.
1 Audio Control Matrix, DQ61, and 2xs for processing/EQ and crossover. All mounted up under the rear deck or to the seat framework.

Basically about everything is hidden and out of the way as much as possible. Replacing the head unit would certainly simplify things and sounds a bit better. But just not sold on any of the aftermarket solutions available for the bezel and radio placement. So keeping the stock HU and doing it the hard way I have a bunch of pictures, will upload and post some when I get a chance.

 

[Mashburn94]

Thats awesome man. Not to thread jack, but do you know what RMS the ZR's in the door are running, and what crossover/slope is on them?
I'm looking into doing mine soon. Plan to run those 8's in the door, Hybrid Audio L3V2 in the door, and The L1V2's in the sail using the 360.3.

 

[jojobee]

I do and I wish I had time to document everything properly. Basic rundown:
JL ZR800's in the door and rear deck (bolted underneath with adapters I fabricated)
JL ZR525CSi in the upper doors with tweeters in the sail panels
JL Stealthbox in the truck, which I usually have out of the trunk to fit other stuff
1 XD600/6v2, 1XD600/1v2, 1 XD400/4v2, all mounted up under the rear deck.
1 Audio Control Matrix, DQ61, and 2xs for processing/EQ and crossover. All mounted up under the rear deck or to the seat framework.

Basically about everything is hidden and out of the way as much as possible. Replacing the head unit would certainly simplify things and sounds a bit better. But just not sold on any of the aftermarket solutions available for the bezel and radio placement. So keeping the stock HU and doing it the hard way I have a bunch of pictures, will upload and post some when I get a chance.

Seems you have more amps than last summer

About the Matrix im setup about the same as you but my Matrix is in the trunk.

There is a big amount of hiss/white noise coming from the ZR in the doors when getting the preamp sub signal from the hu. Have you experinced that, i know the line level signal is very weak but was wondering if running a speaker cable to the back to get to the Matrix could induce all that noise ?

 

[TheVikingRL]

Seems you have more amps than last summer

About the Matrix im setup about the same as you but my Matrix is in the trunk.

There is a big amount of hiss/white noise coming from the ZR in the doors when getting the preamp sub signal from the hu. Have you experinced that, i know the line level signal is very weak but was wondering if running a speaker cable to the back to get to the Matrix could induce all that noise ?

I can't believe you're still fighting that. Did you ever try bypassing the factory HU and running an RCA into the Matrix from some other source? I never had an issue with noise from either sub signal (door or trunk sub). I'm using some sort of twisted pair cable but at this point I forget what. Only issue I had was not enough strength from the factory line out which is why the Matrix was so helpful.

Absolutely no change from when we last spoke. I have the XD600 in the middle of the deck along with the DQ61 and 2XS. The other two amps are on tucked up on either end of the deck. Matrix is mounted vertically on the seat support framework. If the aftermarket would come up with a better bezel solution, this would all be much easier Still need to spend more time tweaking/tuning everything but between family and all my other hobbies it's been low on the priority list. I did reach out to a Ford resource who was going to help me reprogram the ACM to output a un-EQ'd line level signal direct from HU. But he never followed up with the details and I gave up trying. Would happily pay a resource to do it if I could find someone capable. Anyway, what else is new with your setup?

 

[TheVikingRL]

Thats awesome man. Not to thread jack, but do you know what RMS the ZR's in the door are running, and what crossover/slope is on them?
I'm looking into doing mine soon. Plan to run those 8's in the door, Hybrid Audio L3V2 in the door, and The L1V2's in the sail using the 360.3.

I honestly don't recall the exact crossover but it's somewhere between 120 and 150hz currently with a 12db slope. Will crawl in the trunk when I get a chance and let you know. I'm running the XD400/4v2 bridged so they are each seeing (potentially) 200w. Way more than they are rated for but so far I've had zero issues. As mentioned, the whole door speaker/sub install is pretty straightforward EXCEPT for running the speaker wire. That was a miserable job and I wouldn't want to do it again anytime soon. Good luck with your setup!

 

[Mashburn94]

I honestly don't recall the exact crossover but it's somewhere between 120 and 150hz currently with a 12db slope. Will crawl in the trunk when I get a chance and let you know. I'm running the XD400/4v2 bridged so they are each seeing (potentially) 200w. Way more than they are rated for but so far I've had zero issues. As mentioned, the whole door speaker/sub install is pretty straightforward EXCEPT for running the speaker wire. That was a miserable job and I wouldn't want to do it again anytime soon. Good luck with your setup!

No big deal, I was just curious as to how low you have them digging. Thanks for the information!

 

[TheVikingRL]

Ah, thought you were looking or the LP point. I originally had them running as full subs with no HP crossover. If I remember correctly I now have a 50 hz chip the the 2XS with an 18 db slope. IMO, they work just fine as a sub assuming you put enough power through them.

 

[Eric L]

I was in the same boat with my 13'gt. didn't want to change the head unit out. So I used the audio control sound processor because it takes ALL of the audio output signals and adds them together with a RCA output for your amps. I put Alpine Type R components in the doors and mounted the tweeters on the pillars powered by a 300 watt jl amp. left the factory door subs alone, and and Alpine Type R DVC 10 in the trunk with a JL slash 600. Sounds freaking awesome and the only way you would know anything was different is if you looked in the trunk and saw the sub. HOWEVER, I have been having a problem when I turn the volume up halfway the traction control starts flashing and the voltage on the gauge spikes up to 15 volts. Haven't figured that out yet and no one seems to have any answers. Anyway, spend the money on the Audiocontrol, it really makes all the difference.