Upgrading speaker wire in doors

blackcoyote13

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2013
Messages
269
Location
California
Any tricks to this? The MOLEX plug looks like a nightmare and on the inside under the dash, it looks like there is a big metal plate blocking the way to getting to the port on the door.
 

JEP

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2010
Messages
39
Location
So Cal
Any tricks to this? The MOLEX plug looks like a nightmare and on the inside under the dash, it looks like there is a big metal plate blocking the way to getting to the port on the door.

Why do you want to?


There is really no reason to do it..


How much RMS/Peak watts do you plan on running to the door speaker?
 

blackcoyote13

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2013
Messages
269
Location
California
150 watts via a Hertz HSK 165XL component set in each door, 4 ohms. The factory speaker wires dont seem capable of that.

If I didnt, where can I splice into the factory wires (to route the radio output to the amp input and from the amp back to the speaker side wire?
 

JEP

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2010
Messages
39
Location
So Cal
150 watts via a Hertz HSK 165XL component set in each door, 4 ohms. The factory speaker wires dont seem capable of that.

If I didnt, where can I splice into the factory wires (to route the radio output to the amp input and from the amp back to the speaker side wire?

150 peak, or RMS?


What amp?
 

blackcoyote13

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2013
Messages
269
Location
California
Actually, just changed my mind. Figure I dont need 150w RMS of power up front. Going to put in some Focal 165KR's. Do you think 75W @ 4ohms is enough to push those well? The crutchfield specs list them at 10-80W RMS @ 4ohms I think.

Amp will be a JL XD500/3, 75w x 4 @ 4 ohms and 300 x 1 @ 2 ohms for the subwoofer.
 

JEP

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2010
Messages
39
Location
So Cal
Actually, just changed my mind. Figure I dont need 150w RMS of power up front. Going to put in some Focal 165KR's. Do you think 75W @ 4ohms is enough to push those well? The crutchfield specs list them at 10-80W RMS @ 4ohms I think.

Amp will be a JL XD500/3, 75w x 4 @ 4 ohms and 300 x 1 @ 2 ohms for the subwoofer.

Yep, fine.. I have a 450/4 Slash series in my truck powering ZR650CSI with no problems.

I find (with my installations, I own a stereo shop and am a JL dealer) that 75-100wts is fine with factory wiring on newer cars(96+) Anything past that, you'll need better wire..

Also, changing the wire thinking you'll get better sound quality is not so much true - on a meter you may find differences, i.e. left/right bias, imaging, but to the naked ear, no..

Unless you're building a SQ car, I wouldn't worry about changing the wire..


Plus, make sure you build some sort of an enclosure or buy some foam baffles. You can take teh shittiest speaker and install it properly and be amazed in quality - but..

You can take $2500 pair of Morells and install them shitty and have crappy sound..
 

JEP

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2010
Messages
39
Location
So Cal
No..


Some are 'free air' but most need a enclosure of some sort to help with compression, esp with a mid bass driver. I've put 8" subs in cars before to get the mid-bass response I was looking for..

Not to get into a lengthy discussion, but the best way I can explain it is, a mid bass driver is a small sub-woofer, just played in a different frequency range, usually around 600khz, most speaker companys dont' state they need enclosures, but they sound better when you do enclose them.

It gets into teh design of the motor structure and such.

I have never heard a speaker that didn't help enclosing it..
 

JEP

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2010
Messages
39
Location
So Cal
You don't have to enclose them, but it helps..


And in my opinion, any quality speaker should have some sort of an enclosure behind it..


I use these foam ones I get from AAMP and its amazing with/without the sound quality..
 

blackcoyote13

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2013
Messages
269
Location
California
What about mounting the components in the rear panels. There is a ton of room there to mount components and easily run the wiring to the trunk. Would the sound quality and imaging really be that bad since its behind the front seats?
 

Tuffnuts23

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2012
Messages
817
Location
Camarillo, CA
running wire through the door is a bitch, but doable. It took me about 2 hours a piece for each door. Also, I wouldn't change the rear deck speakers until you have already changed the fronts. From a sound quality standpoint the rear deck speakers are just filler.
 

JEP

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2010
Messages
39
Location
So Cal
running wire through the door is a bitch, but doable. It took me about 2 hours a piece for each door. Also, I wouldn't change the rear deck speakers until you have already changed the fronts. From a sound quality standpoint the rear deck speakers are just filler.

THis^
 

TheVikingRL

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
1,341
Location
New Jersey
Premium panels have a nice enclosure for an 8" midbass. Only a few will fit properly but makes a nice setup when paired with a decent aftermarket amp. I used the JL ZR800's with a XD400 amp.
 

blackcoyote13

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2013
Messages
269
Location
California
Problem is I already looked at trying to run the speaker wires through the door and its not something I would be able to pull off. Paying someone else for 4 hrs labor to do it is going to be expensive.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top