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VMP GEN3 Install Review

Discussion in 'SVT Shelby GT500' started by svt4me38, Jan 16, 2019.

  1. svt4me38

    svt4me38 TEAM VMP TVS Established Member

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    9B38BDCD-E732-42BF-81A6-5552FEB731AB.png 50D0A722-026C-46BE-B541-B3D9BF9B16E8.png CF82A830-C599-4E3F-8BA4-2D73A491B34C.png E3F81110-01D6-4431-8473-04913C67DED1.png AEE00CA9-438C-4766-8446-13FD24D48504.png 94137562-169A-4CFE-9A92-09282E69DC06.png 79DBF1D4-82CB-4263-9A67-06A973D64134.png 807DA9C3-1C73-4A96-AA7F-92C8AF758EC0.png ABC41F23-D9E2-46B8-82CE-11F9D5504BFF.png 7E5AC010-1CA2-4853-8973-31D0DA2ED8B3.png Vmp Gen3 Supercharger install!


    I wanted to put some info out there in order to help all who decide to go with the Gen3. Vmp does have a short video of them drilling out the coolant tower bolt and putting the blower on, but I wanted to aid those who may be doing their first blower swap and need further details.

    The Gen3 has similarities of the gen2r but there are a few differences that are worth noting on the install.

    After unpacking blower from box/plastic and verifying you have all your install pieces.... install the blower pulley, egr studs with gasket and the evap sensor (11-14 cars). Transfer your factory dowel pins from previous Supercharger to same holes. If you are using your factory fuel rails, you will need to get your dremel out. I found out after the blower was fully installed, that my passenger side rear fuel rail bolt would not line up in its hole. The egr mount on the blower case hangs over this bolt preventing you from being able to thread the bolt in. You will need to dremel about a 1/4 inch off the corner (see picture) in order to get your bolt in. Insure that you have the bottom and inlet of blower covered/protected from any possible shavings.

    If you did not loosen your egr tube (at egr and on header primary, do so at this time. Loose both ends, not disconnect.)

    Next if you did not already remove your current blower and there’s enough room to drill the housing, attempt to do so before removing current Supercharger. If you have already pulled the blower make sure your lower intake manifold is securely covered with duct tape or plastic to insure no metal shards get in it. Remove the coolant tower bolt like instructed in VMP video and then proceed to drill out the hole/tower down till you’ve reached proper height between lines on drill bit. Here you will find that the drill bit left a outer shell around the perimeter of the hole that you will need to dremel out and grind off/down. Make sure all edges are smoothed over and clear completely on front and backside of tower, you will need all that space for the front of the blower to clear.

    Clean up mess best you can(vacuum) and with help of someone else verify the blower is going to clear the tower prior to removing your tape/plastic barrier.

    If clearance is good remove your barrier and fully clean up metal shavings.

    Lower blower on top of lower intake but not all the way back. At this point connect both boost bypass lines and the 90 degree hose, make sure you left the furthest rear left bolt - I used factory bolt here.... VMP DOES INCLUDE A BRASS BOLT- (looking from front of engine) installed loosely. The blower is notched to slide around the bolt ....at this same time you are doing that line up the egr studs with the egr holes and slide blower in to place. Insure the blower seats correctly with the factory dowels. Using your supplied Allen head Supercharger hardware, start each bolt a couple threads till you have all bolts in place. Tighten them down a little at a time working your way front to back on the blower. Once you’ve got them snug, you will only be able to get a torque wrench on 4/9 bolts if using 3/8 size torque bit.
    (A long 6mm ball head allen driver would help here.)
    This is due to how wide the blower case is and prevents straight on shot with the bit, causing you to have to use a Allen wrench on these “no space” bolts. I used 1 of the bolts that was torqued to spec to gauge how tight I got the other bolts with my Allen wrench. Now install your egr nuts on to the studs. Tighten both ends of your egr tube. Install your blower belt, making sure belt perfectly aligns with rest of pulley assembly. Once the belt is on verify all blower pulley bolts are snug.

    Install your passenger side fuel rail/ injectors and tighten the two rail bolts. If you have a 07-12 car and using factory fuel rail-crossover, you will have to use the supplied hose and clamps to replace the stock crossover (it is too short). Plug all your lines, connectors back in on egr side of blower and injector harness. Now move to the drive-side of blower. Pending which throttle body you are running will dictate the steps you take next. If you’re running a smaller throttle body like myself, you want to install the adapter with supplied gasket for it. You will be able to put 2 short bolts on the far left of the adapter, then use the other 4 bolts to secure your throttle body with gasket to the adapter - longer bolts go on right side (through Tb, adapter and in to plenum).

    Plug all your lines, connectors in (iat, throttle body, evap, and brake booster line). Next install whatever intake you are running making sure to connect your maf harness and the boost bypass line to it.

    Look over your work, making sure everything is hooked up or plugged in.

    From here you will want to insure your battery is charged or tender hooked up and begin loading tune or start making logs for your tuner.


    Hope this helps, ENJOY!
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2019
  2. svt4me38

    svt4me38 TEAM VMP TVS Established Member

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    ***My apologies if the pictures come in out of order, I did not have a place to host them so had to upload one at a time. 093FCFE6-3C75-43F7-9EF8-90D4E7D20995.png DF7D37B1-1E8B-43E4-BBA1-78C02AA3CE20.png ABB85A78-C271-4B64-BFB9-5D2F0AE77D93.png F2D0243F-2608-4BC1-8C99-FCD2685B4A29.png D8F95EE4-0AC3-4BBB-8E3E-52A4C8DA32A9.png 891BABCF-BF04-4A51-8B93-BCD55C3B6FBB.png
     
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  3. Catmonkey

    Catmonkey I Void Warranties! Premium Member Established Member

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    FWIW, I'm running BPS fuel rails and had no issues with fitment whatsoever.
     
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  4. svt4me38

    svt4me38 TEAM VMP TVS Established Member

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    Correct, aftermarket rails don’t have the issue.
     
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  5. Totalpkg

    Totalpkg Active Member Established Member

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    What I did for the fuel rail bolt was grind the washer on that bolt so basically the washer looked more like a 'D' than circular. I too had no instructions and vmp emailed me a youtube install video. Reinstalling the EGR was a PITA... Needed 2 peeps and wood poles to coax that EGR on.
     
  6. biminiLX

    biminiLX never stock Established Member

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    Great resource for those about to install.
    The grinding the coolant tower was a puckering experience but not terrible.
    Worthwhile upgrade from what I can tell at this point.
    So, all us Gen3 owners, do we all agree there is sufficient room behind the blower for case optimizing, like a 3R case? For another thread :)
    -J
     
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  7. RBB

    RBB Well-Known Member Established Member

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    I think there's room. 1320 is doing a cut/port job on them similar to the Gen2. Has anyone had that done? Wondering about the results. I was one of the lucky bastards who won a free Gen3 from Lethal when they did their drawing a couple of weeks ago. Since that cash is now burning a hole in my pocket I was thinking about sending my Gen3 to Jay, but I haven't seen much feedback on it at this point.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2019
  8. Catmonkey

    Catmonkey I Void Warranties! Premium Member Established Member

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    Way more intimidating taking a cutting tool to your manifold than it was doing the deed. My manifold is teflon coated, so it was very intimidating. I suppose there are casting shifts in manifolds because I had a weird edge toward the front of mine after I was done. I didn't see that in VMP's video. It cleaned up with a dremel cutting bit. All in all, no damage to the teflon. A word of caution. Do what you can to contain the flying aluminum. I made a tray out of heavy duty foil to contain as much as I could, but building higher walls out of the aluminum than I did might do a better job containing some of the flying fragments. Definitely do what you can to cover your exposed intercooler and don't even attempt it if the valve and/or timing covers are removed.
     
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  9. sleek98

    sleek98 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Had the same issue with a weird lip. Used a dremel as well. Using a shop vac helped contain a 1/2 or so of the flying bits but not everything.
     
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  10. Catmonkey

    Catmonkey I Void Warranties! Premium Member Established Member

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    I was more comfortable with both hands on the drill than attempting it with one hand on the drill and one hand on a vacuum. Did I mention I was intimidated? :)
     
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  11. 68gtscode

    68gtscode Member Established Member

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    Great post. Do you have any hp and torque results for the Gen 3 vs the 2R?
     
  12. svt4me38

    svt4me38 TEAM VMP TVS Established Member

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    Thank you.... No sir, I never dynoed the gen2r. Car is tuned via datalogging in street. I will be comparing time slip data come March-April.
     
  13. svt4me38

    svt4me38 TEAM VMP TVS Established Member

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    Came home to something big and shiny from Vmp yesterday!
    Revised 160mm throttle body with couplers! Thing is HUGE—- is what the wife said ;-)
     
  14. RBB

    RBB Well-Known Member Established Member

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  15. svt4me38

    svt4me38 TEAM VMP TVS Established Member

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    The gear and spring.
     
  16. Totalpkg

    Totalpkg Active Member Established Member

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    Let us know if no issues... I had a hell of a time with version 1. Ended up going with old reliable FRPP 65mm.
     
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  17. RBB

    RBB Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Good deal. Let us know how that works out for you.
     
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  18. svt4me38

    svt4me38 TEAM VMP TVS Established Member

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    3B26B4A4-71BA-4983-A917-3AC98170D965.png
    So I was able to steal a little garage time tonight and put the 160mm Tb on. I made a video of the cold start, 3 minutes of idle time and then a 15min Drive. I DID NOT beat on the car, drove it like normal. The car still has the GEN2r with 72mm tune file. I have yet to load the revised tune due to the 331 gears not installed yet. Lund jr revision includes the gear change. With that being said the car idled and drove PERFECT!
    In fact it idles a little lower than it did with the 72mm. I’m looking forward to getting more miles on it and the revision after the gear swap.
    (Attaches is a pic of my vmp 72mm with the 160)

     
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  19. biminiLX

    biminiLX never stock Established Member

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    Great to hear. My 173 was fine on start up and idle but went limp mode within a half mile. So this is a promising start on their updated 160/173 Gen 3 bolt pattern TBs.
    Justin will hopefully have a functional 173 for us sometime soon.
    -J
     
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  20. Totalpkg

    Totalpkg Active Member Established Member

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    Gonna wait for next sale to pick one up...I have a 148mm JLT to put on too...I think I'll go to the Carlisle show and get Dyno tuned...
     

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