Just finished Camber plate install, love them. The Vorshlag's have two caster settings and I choose the more aggressive and it seems to have perfected the weight of the steering input and the wheel pops back to neutral extremely nicely. There is no rubber on the seat, and while subtle I think I can feel the texture of the road surface better. Very impressed.
The install was pretty easy, maybe 90 minutes a side, including drilling out the strut tower to allow necessary camber adjustability. I just put the car on jack stands two feet off the ground, disconnected the sway bar link from the strut, unclipped the wires from the struts, and used a floor jack to lift the knuckle then loosened the strut bolt with a impact and lowered the strut to decompress the spring. Then removed the three nuts holding the stock perch to the strut tower and it slipped out.
Next step was to use the Vorshlag S550 drill guide and a bimetal hole saw to bore the hole out, clean up the cut, prime, touchup paint, and re-assemble. I did one side at a time and used a level to match the camber bc I didn't have time to align right away and since I did not touch the tie-rods, matching the camber preserved the tow.
I'm surprised how much the caster change affected the drive, seems like it perfected it. Still need to clean it up a bit.
If anyone wants to buy the drill guide, I'm finished with it, let me know I can save you some bucks.
The install was pretty easy, maybe 90 minutes a side, including drilling out the strut tower to allow necessary camber adjustability. I just put the car on jack stands two feet off the ground, disconnected the sway bar link from the strut, unclipped the wires from the struts, and used a floor jack to lift the knuckle then loosened the strut bolt with a impact and lowered the strut to decompress the spring. Then removed the three nuts holding the stock perch to the strut tower and it slipped out.
Next step was to use the Vorshlag S550 drill guide and a bimetal hole saw to bore the hole out, clean up the cut, prime, touchup paint, and re-assemble. I did one side at a time and used a level to match the camber bc I didn't have time to align right away and since I did not touch the tie-rods, matching the camber preserved the tow.
I'm surprised how much the caster change affected the drive, seems like it perfected it. Still need to clean it up a bit.
If anyone wants to buy the drill guide, I'm finished with it, let me know I can save you some bucks.
