Vortech on a Bullitt build

jaxbusa

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I purchased a Vortech TI V2 kit about two years ago. Garage space issues, home renovations and moving kept the parts boxed up while collecting dust. Well, here I am with a garage I can move around in and no more excuses. I thought a lot about what route to go for more power and ended up with a Vortech. A Coyote swap seemed real nice, but it didn’t sit right with me after I added up all of the cost for 400 hp. An LS swap left me wondering how much of a headache keeping power steering and AC would be and if the cost would spiral out of control as well. I figure that the Vortech will keep the cost in check now and still be relevant when I want to rebuild the engine with forged parts. I know it’s nothing special and has been done countless times before, but I’d like to share this installation on the forum. I am going to take my time, so bear with me.

Ready for surgery.

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Vortech V2 TI

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ID 1000

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Treadstone

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Wish me luck.







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Recon

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I need a Bullitt in my life, man that car is clean. She’ll love boost from that blower.


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Need 04 Wine

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What was the Bullet again?

had different rear side windows, suspension?, and just the Manifold?

I like the look of them just can never recall details

Modular motors, are awesome to boost, even the 2V, which I still love.
 

jaxbusa

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You’re basically right. There were a few other subtle differences. The suspension was nothing to write home about. I already replaced it with a Maximum Motorsports road and track package. I think the worst part is the 2 valve, but we’ll see. My father in law was going to sell it and I saw potential.


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Need 04 Wine

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You’re basically right. There were a few other subtle differences. The suspension was nothing to write home about. I already replaced it with a Maximum Motorsports road and track package. I think the worst part is the 2 valve, but we’ll see. My father in law was going to sell it and I saw potential.


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You will change mind after blower.
The kb one I had was damn fun. Put down 390 at tire. Which ain’t crazy by today standards but that’s still a whole lotta surprise for the guy next to ya.

The ole 2v just needs a bottom end. Even decent rods and pistons are all that’s really needed. The 6 bolt crank can hold lots of power. But you may be limited by it depending on goal.

Ima sucker for the underdog though.


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jaxbusa

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Everything is moving along slowly. I’ve had a few time consuming issues but nothing major. First is that I didn’t have the proper size tap and punch.
I feel like they could’ve thrown in the tap for a few extra bucks. The instructions say to punch out the hole to about 9/16 and tap to 3/8. I scratched my head and read it a few more times. As you will find out, it’s NPT thread. This is normal and the instructions are correct. My tap has a recommended size hole printed on it of 37/64, which is just bigger than 9/16. I marked my punch with a marker and began making a hole in the oil pan. For those of you that have never done this, it feels all sorts of wrong.
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View attachment 1480256

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The second issue was a pulley that was suppose to be mounted to the supercharger bracket was hitting a bolt.
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I went ahead and changed all of my idler pulleys out while I was there and found that the pulley from the tensioner was different and would clear the bolt.
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jaxbusa

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I had to grind this area so it didn’t interfere with the mounting bracket.
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One of the pulleys from Vortech came with a bolt that was too long and some plastic piece. I just used my old bolt and washer.
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I have the bracket and charger loosely on the motor. I realized that I need to clock the blower, so I loosened the small allen bolts so I can rotate it. Then it occurred to me that I really can’t do that until I mount the intercooler and run pipe. So that’s where I am now.


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Three21

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Nice, keep it coming! These motors love the boost, until you get greedy and something comes loose... Then you rebuild them and they LOVE even more boost.
 

jaxbusa

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I have the intercooler mounted. It took awhile to figure out the best location. I made brackets and utilized an area on the upper radiator support that had a hole in it already. I just put a nut clip on it.
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I just bought a MIG welder and it worked great. The brackets are made from 5/8 square tube that was 16 gauge thick.
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I welded a diamond shape on the bottom and will use larger self tapping bolts to fasten it to the lower radiator support. The intercooler placement required me to trim a little off of the back of my factory metal bumper. I will have to figure out what to do with the power steering cooler, but I’ll probably do that after I run all of the intercooler pipes.

I ordered some 4” aluminum tubing to try a homemade power pipe. I’m going to wait on that before I continue to plan out the route of the 3” tubing.


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jaxbusa

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While waiting on my 4” power pipe pieces to arrive, I decided to work on the section from the supercharger to the intercooler. I was under the car for what seemed like eternity just holding pieces. I finally started to make cuts. I’m using a circular saw with an aluminum oxide blade. It’s cheap, but it leaves a lot of cleanup to file after the cut. If I were doing a lot of these I would buy a better blade. I held up my cuts and made it work. I was really nervous about welding aluminum, as I’ve never done it before and I only have very limited TIG experience. I decided to make two sections because one would make it hard to remove.
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jaxbusa

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I made my power pipe. I read a few threads about making one and a guy used a 45 degrees pipe and 45 degrees silicone coupling. I bought two 45 degrees pipes. In hindsight I should have bought a 45 and 90 pipe. I needed more bend and ended up doing pie cuts with some of the straight section that I cut off. It worked but took me forever. I also scratched the mess out of the pipe sliding it in and out.
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I finally took the supercharger back off and tightened the unit now that I’m done clocking it. One of the pulleys that I replaced was hitting the alternator.
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After careful inspecting it with the old one, I found out that the old one was slightly thinner. If you remember, the old one was hitting a bolt on the bracket. I was just going to use the old one and grind the bolt head, but spinning it reminded me why I replaced it. I decided to press the bearing out of the new one and inserted it into the old pulley.
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I then ground down the head of the bolt.
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I put the bracket back on and attached the oil feed and drain. I was scratching my head at the instructions about how to get the belt on over the water pump pulley. I ended up using a large pair of channel lock pliers on the tensioner.

Now I’m waiting on a hole saw and a few other odds and ends.


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jaxbusa

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I Made my poor man’s bead roller. The bend that comes on the pipe is on the left, mine’s on the right. It worked well.

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I’m converting to a slot MAF and welded the fitting in the middle of one foot of straight tubing.

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I had to sit back and think hard about where to connect my PCV valve and idle air control valve lines. Vortech had them run to the molded plastic tube before the supercharger. I will run my idle air control valve after the MAF, just before the throttle body. I will run the left and right valve cover vents to the power pipe. I’m still trying to find fittings for a catch can, but I’m not sold on using it. It has an in and out and no baffling.




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Need 04 Wine

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I Made my poor man’s bead roller. The bend that comes on the pipe is on the left, mine’s on the right. It worked well.

View attachment 1483956

I’m converting to a slot MAF and welded the fitting in the middle of one foot of straight tubing.

View attachment 1483958

I had to sit back and think hard about where to connect my PCV valve and idle air control valve lines. Vortech had them run to the molded plastic tube before the supercharger. I will run my idle air control valve after the MAF, just before the throttle body. I will run the left and right valve cover vents to the power pipe. I’m still trying to find fittings for a catch can, but I’m not sold on using it. It has an in and out and no baffling.




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Some one on here did something very similar with a vise grip I think. I would defiantly figure out a catch can. I use upr on my pickup/suv seems to do its jobs. 10000km I got 1/8 cup water oil and misc fluid out of it.


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