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what belt tensioner are people running

Discussion in 'Engine/Tuning' started by mustangmike01, Jul 26, 2019.

  1. mustangmike01

    mustangmike01 Member Established Member

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    Hey guys like the title say, my dam oem tensioner bearings are going again. They seam to last about 10k. I do not know why I have so many dam problems with these bearings all the time. Is the oem the way to go or should I be running something else?

    Thanks
     
  2. 01yellercobra

    01yellercobra AKA slo984now Established Member

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    How tight are you setting the belt up? Lots of tension kills bearings. I'm currently on the stock tensioner and it has at least 15k on it. I think some people use the Roush tensioner as an upgrade.
     
  3. Bdubbs

    Bdubbs u even lift bro? Established Member

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    I went through 2 oem tensioners in a short time. Yeah I probably ran the belt tighter than it should be. I upgraded to a thump tensioner. No regrets.

    Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using the svtperformance.com mobile app
     
  4. LethalBlake

    LethalBlake Authorized Vendor Authorized Vendor

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    Thump Racing or American Racing Solutions would be our go to suggestions for tensioners, we offer both here send me a PM if you have any questions. www.lethalperformance.com
     
  5. 94slowbra1

    94slowbra1 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    my oem lasted about 65k, alot that with either a whipple or tvs making up to 21lbs of boost. only reason i upgraded is i didnt like the oem look. i went with a roush unit. i found a price i couldnt pass up and so far its been great. much better looking and holds the boost. id love one of the big billet ones that blake posted about, just couldnt justify the cost over the roush
     
  6. olympic

    olympic Well-Known Member Premium Member Established Member

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    Thump Racing.
     
  7. jrgoffin

    jrgoffin Been around... Established Member

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    Best bang for the buck is Roush - and it works. Has been asked many times ——> Engine
     
  8. MadRacer

    MadRacer New Member

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    I’ve heard of people upgrading their tensioners! Either way, still make sure you have it set up right. The belt should move about 1/4”-1/2” up and down per foot of belt distance spanned between a pulley or other belt driven component. Just use a straight edge up against the belt and move it by hand, or you can buy a special gauge that will read the tension for you.
     
  9. mustangmike01

    mustangmike01 Member Established Member

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    How this started. Got a new alternator and it's a smaller pulley. My setup 03 cobra, 2.8 rr sc pulley, 4 lb lower, metco 4 piece idlers, alternator 3.5. was using a 81 5/8" belt, no belt problems or slip. just got the j2 alternator that comes with a 3.2 alternator pulley, belt was to lose, squealing like crazy. got a 81 1/8" and itwas fine for 50 miles.

    I can turn the belt side ways with ease 1/4 of the belt but i can turn it to up 1/2 of the belt if I really turn it. Or do u mean moving it vertical along the pulley surface?

    I may have found it. The indicator on the tensioner is way to he passenger side. Meaning the belts not aligned right. I guess if it was fine before its the alternator needs to be moved forward with washers a little. Not really shore though. Never had to do that with the oem alternators.

    The tensioner is still winning like crazy. So I may have killed it because the belt was not aligned right.
     
  10. 01yellercobra

    01yellercobra AKA slo984now Established Member

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    If you're talking about the tab that shows where the tensioner is in its travel that has nothing to do with alignment. You want that tab in the middle of the mark. But you might have an alignment issue with the new alternator. It's worth checking. Once that's good get a proper sized belt that puts the tensioner in the right spot.

    I picked up a Whipple aux idler just for this reason. I changed alternator pullies and was able to adjust the aux idler for a proper fit.
     
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  11. MadRacer

    MadRacer New Member

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    You’re right about that! Alignment can really kill components or cause belt slippage. You should be able to look down from the top of the engine at the belt and it preferably should overlap itself, as in, the belt should be in line...versus the alternator has some belt showing more towards the radiator.

    When I say 1/4”-1/2” I mean deflection, up and down movement. I’ve seen some really good videos about the topic online, but basically if you can press on the belt with your finger and it moves WAY down, it’s not tight enough. This could be a tension problem, or the belt being too big is the issue.
     

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