what forged internal short/long block is a good swap into Marauder?

[Steve@Tasca]

Auto trans Mach 1 is a six bolt as was the Mark V111. The only eight bolt auto trans flywheels in cars were in some older Mustangs and some C/Vs and G/Ms.

Ford Racing used to sell the M-6375-H46 which was an eight bolt flywheel that worked with an 11.25 in torque convertor but it's discontinued as is the OEM version of it which was a Mustang P/N.

I have an old note I added in my system years ago that says an F6AZ-6375-DA works, that was used in Vics, Marquis along with some vans and trucks. That old number supercedes to P/N 4C3Z-6375-AA $170.38 plus shipping. My only concern would be the convertor size and bolt spacing although I would have deleted the note if I'd run into an issue.

I can't 100% guarantee that it's a direct swap but I usually don't add notes until I'm sure about them, it's just been a long time since this came up and I can't recall all the details.

-Steve

 

[Steve@Tasca]

double post.

 

[musclemerc]

The rule of thumb is 450rwhp through an auto with a non forged internal 4v. I'm at 436rwhp and knocking on 11 sec 1/4 mile times.


Keep in mind, if you really crank up the boost, you have to build up the rear end and trans as well. The terminator is the only one that has fully forged internals stock, and the long block will fit in. I'd use the eaton swap brackets instead of the stock pulley bridge setup.

He's already Eaton swapped with Marauder brackets.

 

[musclemerc]

Chief, don't waste your time with used Terminator blocks. The good ones are long gone and in the end you'll spend double rebuilding it. I'm not a fan of a steel, low compression block in our heavy automatic cars. Stick with an aluminum block and go with forged internals. Depending on how much boost you want will determine if you want to go with a heavier rotating assembly (specifically the crank). The stock crank isn't the weak spot in our engines, the rods and pistons are.

Tasca has awesome pricing but it wont hurt to look at other vendors in the modular world. JDM engineering builds awesome and affordable aluminum stroker short blocks. They have a great reputation (unlike MMR) and stand behind their builds.

As others have stated the trans and rear end will also need beefing up. 88grandmarq builds stout transmissions and is a true artesian in his craft. He's currently building me a 4R70E transmission for my MM and I cannot wait to get it and my Circle D 2800 TC installed

Currently I'm running:
Stock block
Trilogy 13.5 lbs boost
31 spline axles with a Cobra carrier
4R70E built trans (coming soon)
Circle D 2800 single disc stall
Last track time 11.98

 

[JeronimoJC]

If you are going with forged internals you might consider stroker crank. If you want an aluminum stroker, then consider the Aluminator 46X. Steve (Tasca ) can get you very competitive pricing. I did some research (compared JDM, MMR etc) and this is the direction I went. The only thing is these blocks are in back order.

CR on this block is 9.6:1, which I think is a very good fit for boost applications.

 

[chief455]

All good stuff, thanks! I'm not a fan of used performance parts, intent is putting quality forged internals to a freshly machined Marauder block. I have had success with used cranks, so may utilize a nice Cobra crank, with new rods and pistons.
With all the info posted, I can begin my search. It's a piece by piece, as money allows build, to create a swap ready, spare motor.
Mine is 85k miles old, so don't want to boost it up now = 400 feels good and should hold together.
Same motor, but forged, I will push the boost up.
thanks again for the helpful posts.

 

[chief455]

If you are going with forged internals you might consider stroker crank. If you want an aluminum stroker, then consider the Aluminator 46X. Steve (Tasca ) can get you very competitive pricing. I did some research (compared JDM, MMR etc) and this is the direction I went. The only thing is these blocks are in back order.

CR on this block is 9.6:1, which I think is a very good fit for boost applications.

I will price out buying all parts, spare block and machining/assembly. The ready to go Aluminator might be a better value and worth saving for.