If i was to have 650-700 hp at the wheels . . . what is a sufficient setup for the bottom end so it doesnt blow? Pistons, rods, etc??? What kind, how much would all this cost?
Thanks guys!
:beer:
Thanks guys!
:beer:
What is an efficient built setup for 650 hp?
- Thread starter mwaull
- Start date
would buying a stroker be a good idea? Would that have all the right parts?
MTI LS1
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I'm gonna do a new set of pistons and that is it. They are the really weak point in the engine. The rods are good for a lot of power. Anytime an engine fails, look at ModularFords they have a detailed list of failures with mods etc..., it is usually a piston failure. Im gonna go with a good set of CP or Diamond pistons. Should cost north for 1K.
so say if i bought a TT setup and was running around 15 psi (650-700) just a good set of pistons should be fine for a while??? I do not drag or race that much . . . it is my daily driver and i need it to be reliable!!!
MTI LS1
New Member
mwaull said:
X2C made like 880RWHP on the completely stock block. I think with a set of pistons and limited track use/hard driving you should bw fine. If you have the money though, grab a new shortblock even though it is not totally necessary.
where could i find a new shortblock? VT engines? Isnt SVTdubs just using new pistons? Or does he have new rods, etc as well?
Its all about longevity really. The more ya spend the stronger the components you can get. A stroker will cost ya about a grand more for same quality parts than a non-stroker. Is it worth it? Thats up to you to decide. A good billit stroker built shortblock will run ya $4500-$5k or so but handle anything you can throw at it.
Look for one of Postban's post - he has detailed (in his signature) everything that went into his 666 RWHP monster.
MidLifeC said:
Modular Performance SUPER TERMINATOR short block.
Oliver rods, CP Pistons, Mahle rings, ARP Main and head stud kits, Crower springs and
retainers and cams, F/M HP series main and rod bearings, Felpro mls head
gaskets, Canton Road Race pan, misc gaskets, cylinder head bowl work, valve job, Billet oil pump gears new seals and assembled, all the machining work (boring hone with plates, balancing) dis-assembly, washing and reassembly.
www.modularperformance.com
Call them for pricing, just ask for the "Super Terminator" Short Block.
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yeah see after this summer i am either wanting to go with the Whipple/KB or even up to an HP turbo kit (50mm). I am only wanting to run around 15 psi at most with either kit, which ive seen gives you 550 on the KB/whipple and ive heard about 650-700 on the turbo! I would love to to with the turbo but with that kind of power i need to make sure nothing goes wrong with the rest of hte car. At the same time i will be upgrading the clutch, IRS halfshafts and brace, among all the supporting mods. I do not race that much and will probably only take it to the track a couple times to get some numbers. It is my daily driver . . . a race if anything will be from a roll on the highway or something like that.
Keep in mind that if you go full exhaust with cams you will not be seeing the boost level with a given pulley combo that a stock terminator will but will make more power. A stroker will also lower the boost even more.mwaull said:
good upgrades from what i've read is swapping out blocks for a 96-98 cobra aluminum block (also lose 90 pounds) and new pistons. will you gain any #'s at all with new pistons?
New pistons are simply a strength/longevity item if you keep same compression ratio.Wings65288 said:
I like the idea of an aluminum block myself but didnt have the extra money and if I got one I would want it sleeved, which adds even more cost.
Yea I've seen one go for $150 bucks! The guy said it had no problems and had 80k miles on it and it was coming off of a 98 Cobra. If I woulda known better/sooner I think I woulda picked that up in a hurry and swapped blocks. I would still keep my stock iron just in case.
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