What is the limiting factor on the 13/14 GT500s?

Serpent

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I recently watched a buying guide video:

I didn't know the 13/14 were that tuned from factory. Is the price of the 5.8 motor the limiting factor on why there are few 800+rwhp Trinity GT500s? I definitely prefer the looks of these GT500s along with having beefier front brakes and a carbon DS. When these cars start going for low 40s upper 30s, wowie!
 

paluka21

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It's his opinion. But I will say, that given the trinity's higher compression ratio compared to the older model GT500's, there's obviously a requirement for for better gas when you're upping the boost given the already stock 14-15psi and 9.5:1 compression ratio.
Add modifications to the motor to help it breath rather than adding boost, I would say the chances are the car will be reliable on pump gas. Add boost you may end up experiencing the knock he's describing. Just my opinion.
 

pilote

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From what does boost the risk engine to break it?
Many exceed 18 psi ... they have any concerns?
Shelby I will acquire later stage 4 with VMP H Pipe should be between 17-18 psi ...
I ask myself a lot of questions and I hesitate to remove her Pulley 2.4 the day I take possession.
Not simple means everything and its opposite
 

Beercules

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Connecting rods. Some people say keep it below 800 whp, others say just keep the RPM down around 6000.

After that, the timing sprockets/oil pump gears are the same powdered metal the rods are made from.

Basically the same issue as coyote engines, Foed cheaped out where we wouldn't have minded paying a couple thousand more $$.

Talk to a knowledgeable engine builder if you want to know more.
 

Norton

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I read elsewhere that he works for VMP, which ALMOST lent an amount of credibility to his claims, until I asked them for their thoughts on his "assessment."

They agreed that our cars' "gearing is bad" (unsurprising, since the gears permit 60MPH in first and a top speed of 200MPH) and "overrev forced [Ford] to be aggressive on factory knock sensors" (again, unsurprising, since Ford probably isn't interested in a lot of warranty claims). VMP's bottom line was, however, "...take Yolo's act for what it is; superlatives, humor and sarcasm yet based on levels of fact." Given that, and the fact that it would be highly irresponsible of VMP to knowingly sell power upgrades that cause "audible knock" on our "wrung out bitches," I view the video as very heavy on "superlatives, humor and sarcasm" and pretty light on facts.

Beercules is spot-on, BTW.
 
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Beercules

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Ok, so after watching the video this guy annoys me he had an 11-12 to sell...13-14 can add over 100 whp for $1000 with a tune/ intake/pulley. Add 3.73 gears and you can hit 10s (if you can get power). It can also handle more boost before knocking due to the increased bore.

The only reasons to get a GT over a 13-14 gt500 is for the automatic transmission and the variable cam timing, and don't they lock out the cams if they swap them out for the big ones?

For me, if you want a bad ass street/strip Mustang dollar for dollar, get a good body and throw a kaaze boss 9 engine in it! 900 na hp for the same price as a trinity engine.

I recently watched a buying guide video:

I didn't know the 13/14 were that tuned from factory. Is the price of the 5.8 motor the limiting factor on why there are few 800+rwhp Trinity GT500s? I definitely prefer the looks of these GT500s along with having beefier front brakes and a carbon DS. When these cars start going for low 40s upper 30s, wowie!
 

Blue M&M

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merkyworks

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Knock? never heard it and I'm over 700rwhp on 93 octane with mild bolt ons.

Would we even hear any knock?

Engine knock sensors should defect this before our ears can audibly detect this and by that point the computer would already have pulled the timing back so there wasn't knock.
 

MovingZen

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Would we even hear any knock?

Engine knock sensors should defect this before our ears can audibly detect this and by that point the computer would already have pulled the timing back so there wasn't knock.
I was just replying to what dude said in the video. Something along the lines of tuners he talked to said you'd get audible knock as soon as you tried to mod the car. All I know is my car has over 100 rwhp of mods with what I believe is considered a relatively safe tune on 93 octane. If the engine was a 'wrung out bitch' I doubt a throttle body, upper pulley, headers, and off road H would've been all I needed. imo anyway
 

Beercules

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I have my ngauge set to display knock retard. If the computer senses knock it pulls timing, if it doesn't it adds. It always tries to add 2 degrees (-2 degrees knock retard; max) timing when I get on it.

No, the computer isn't seeing knock through the sensors either if tuned right and on good gas.

Would we even hear any knock?

Engine knock sensors should defect this before our ears can audibly detect this and by that point the computer would already have pulled the timing back so there wasn't knock.
 

mebetter

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I have a 13 and raced a friends 2011 gt500. My 13 has a jlt intake and 20" drag radials. The 2011 had upgraded injectors, fuel pumps, upper pulley, lower pulley, headers and full exhaust, throttle body, intake, 15" wheels in the back with slicks, 17" wheels up front, and was a track pack with 3.73s. The 2011 was on e_85 and my 2013 was on 93. We were dead even until 140 and he pulled slightly ahead to where I was at his rear quarter panel. Yeah I'm going to say I'm happy with my rung out 2013, any of the mods from his car to mine whether it's the pulleys, headers, e-85, or smaller wheels and it would have been a different outcome.
 

Jam421

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When I dynoed my '13 it made 682rw on a 30 degree day at about 16lbs boost. I was in the shop on a 90 degree muggy ass day and for heck of it we put in on dyno where it pulled 652rw. We heard nothing knocking in the shop and I never heard a thing while driving. The tuner said the graphs showed it tapping on the Knock Sensor at high rpms. Was it the heat...the last tank of gas..who knows ? He pulled 1/2 degree timing out and on 2nd pull despite the horrible heat it made 27+rw at 680rw.
Recently I considered moving up to 17-18lbs boost on my 93 octane tune. Is that doable ? Absolutely. Instead I bought a Mono-blade TB (upgrading from VMP Twin 67) because I read good things about the SCJ mono.
I thought that video was one man's singular opinion about GT500's . Nothing more nothing less. Not very factual. And yeah...it did appear he had an agenda.
 

djniknala

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I have my ngauge set to display knock retard. If the computer senses knock it pulls timing, if it doesn't it adds. It always tries to add 2 degrees (-2 degrees knock retard; max) timing when I get on it.

No, the computer isn't seeing knock through the sensors either if tuned right and on good gas.

I have it showing as well on the readout. The other thing I did with the LED's up top is set them up to show knock. First three greens are .25, .50,.75. Yellow is 1.0 and the two red are 2.0, 3.0. I know to get out of it at red and start really paying attention if it gets in the yellow. I'm a military helicopter pilot so I like having it in my peripheral.
 
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Drewsky65

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Although the 331's may be a tad too much. I can't even imagine having 3.73's in my 13. I would think you would need to have heated up drag radials to even cruise around. I personally like the 331 and having long gears, with over 600 lb of tq you need to "ride it out" and use its potential rather than shifting before your even getting to use all the tq the motor has. I would think a 3.55 would be maybe the "perfect gear" for these cars. To the point id take a 331 over a 373 in these cars for street or drag racing all day, I'd bet 8/10 times the 331 would beat it out as well, the 331 may not pull and "feel" as fast, but IT IS
 

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