Wheel Bearings Going Bad

[silvercoffin]

Is this a problem related to DSS Level 2 shafts? I had one go bad right after the install years ago and now the other has gone bad and the one that was changed is bad as well.

How difficult is it to change rear wheel bearings? What do you need? Do you need a press? Any other special tools?


This is killing me because the body shop I recently took my car to to get the bumper repainted said they replaced the bearing and I dont think they did the job. I didnt pay close enough attention until just a few days ago when I was switching tires and noticed the entire hub with the wheel is moving slightly while IM tortquing it. Thats what I noticed before and they said it was bad and that they replced it. I dont think they ever did...unless it can go bad that fast again.

I'm happy I have a mechanic I think I can trust now. Its unbelievable how dishonest the auto mechanic profession is.

 

[ac427cobra]

Torque the nut on the halfshaft to 250 ft lbs. If you move the nut quite a bit doing that it will take the play out of your bearing. If it's quiet after that, you're fine. If it's still noisy, you need to replace the bearing. You need a hydraulic press to replace the bearing in the knuckle.

:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:

 

[FKing1]

Don't mean to be picky, but, the Workshop Manual specifies 240 lb-ft torque.
My 1/2" drive torque wrench doesn't go that high. You may need a special torque wrench?

 

[01cobravortech]

This is a useful thread. How do you identify if your real wheel bearings are going kaput? I know the front ones tend to need replacement after 15k or so according to some Cobra owners.

 

[ac427cobra]

Don't mean to be picky, but, the Workshop Manual specifies 240 lb-ft torque.
My 1/2" drive torque wrench doesn't go that high. You may need a special torque wrench?

I have the official Ford factory issue CD repair manual and it specifies 250# for both the front hubs and the rear knuckle bearings. I don't think 10# means a hill of beans at this point. It's less than a 5% difference. Most 1/2" torque wrenches I have seen go to 250#.

FWIW

This is a useful thread. How do you identify if your real wheel bearings are going kaput? I know the front ones tend to need replacement after 15k or so according to some Cobra owners.

For street driven Cobras, front hubs should go 20 or 30k easily. It's when you take them to the track (not the drag strip) and run an R compound tire or slick is when you'll toast them in 3-7k depending on how hard you're pushing them.

To check front or rear, jack up the car and try to wiggle the tire. If you have play, you need an assistant to crawl under the car and look for where the play is. Is it in the hub, upper or lower knuckle eye joint, inner or outer toe link? Not too hard to find actually!

:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:

 

[01cobravortech]

For street driven Cobras, front hubs should go 20 or 30k easily. It's when you take them to the track (not the drag strip) and run an R compound tire or slick is when you'll toast them in 3-7k depending on how hard you're pushing them.

:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:

Is the front suspension shimmy a sign that the fronts need to be replaced?

 

[ac427cobra]

Is the front suspension shimmy a sign that the fronts need to be replaced?

Front end shimmy can come from many things. First off check for play. Then tire/wheel roundness. Swap some different tires/wheels and see if it goes away. Many times tires look good but they cause shimmy/shake. Alignment is important as well.

Start with the basic stuff first then work your way up the the harder more expensive stuff.

FWIW

 

[01cobravortech]

Front end shimmy can come from many things. First off check for play. Then tire/wheel roundness. Swap some different tires/wheels and see if it goes away. Many times tires look good but they cause shimmy/shake. Alignment is important as well.

Start with the basic stuff first then work your way up the the harder more expensive stuff.

FWIW

Thank you my friend. :beer:

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

I don't think 10# means a hill of beans at this point.

I agree, once you get above 200ft/lbs that basically means to crank it on as hard as you can the way I see it. I put a 2 and a half ft bar on it and gave it all my body weight, I really doubt you'd be able to break anything that big.

 

[image]

Put some red loctite on that nut... free advice

 

[ShelbyGuy]

here's a link that might prove useful
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=313874

 

[silvercoffin]

...

Last time I didnt know one was bad until I was putting wheels on and noticeed that one actually wobbled about 1/2 inch and my brakes were getting screwed up on that side. I was still running 11s 1/4 miles with them like that.

This time I noticed strange braking at the end of the strip. Like my anti loc brakes were engaging for no reason. I thought it just had something to do with running the et Streets but maybe it was the bearing. This time the wheel just moves ever so slightly when I tighten it down though....not wobbling like last time.

I never noticed any noise...although I serously ignore noises because there have always been all sorts of them with every Mustang i have owned. In fact the noise I do notice seems to come from the front of the car. I hope I dont have wheel bearings going bad in the front. I always figured that was road noise and it did seem to get worse when I switched to the BFG Gforce tires.


Thanks for the info.. The first thing my mechanic said he tried was checkign the torque and there was till play.

I was wondering about the press because the mechanic who is installing my new trans said he had to do to a machine shop to get them pressed in. At the machine shop the guy said that one bearing spun in the hub and that I need a new hub on that side. ANOTHER $100 geeze my $450 or less to get the new trans and clutch installed is now closer to $1000 between bearings, hubs. the machine shop and labor. THIS sucks. LOL

Cant wait to try that RPM Level V Trans though.

 

[boosted2000si]

Mine went out on a stock car. It was all stock from intake to exhaust.

I think I cause mine by going over rail road tracks to fast. Either way its kind of a pita to replace, but it can be done. I had to go buy a press at harbor freight just so I could press mine out.