Which Alternator

[blownfox]

I’m looking to replace/upgrade my alternator. The current one is not bad but I know these cars have issues with alternators. On hot idle I see 13.2ish on the aero-force gauge ( I do have a warning light set at 12.6). My car has long tubes and aftermarket hood vents which might help with heat. I was looking at a Mechman 170 AMP or Nations but which one is better? I know Nations have a battery light that will come on at higher RMPS and I think Mechman a fix for that. I would rebuild the stock one and save it as a spare. I’m only thinking about this because I will be doing some small visual upgrades. The car will be down for a couple of weeks and the battery will be out. My wife drives this car more than I get to and do not want her stranded on the side of the road.

Would I need to do a wire upgrade with the 170 AMP upgrade?

 

[cj428mach]

My mechman performs well and I like that when I ordered it the guy listened to my pulley combo /rpm range and spec'ed it out accordingly. The alternator required shimming to prevent it from throwing belts after I ruined the first 2. Mechman also a place that can be hard to get ahold of anyone on the phone. I don't like businesses were I can't call and speak to someone during normal business hours. A warranty issue could be a pain in the ass to work through.

Ultimately I choose them because of the flashing battery light deal.

 

[Bdubbs]

I don't like anything under 13 volts at wot. I went with a nations alternator last year. My oem finally crapped out. I like the external regulator it has. The voltage is also adjustable. I also did the wire upgrade and added bigger grounds.

I found out the washers supplied weren't correct, and had alignment issue's. I got that sorted out.

 

[JuStAkId]

on 13.2v hot Thats about normal for a stock unit. Me personally I would wait until that ones dies out or get a 200amp unit from justin wheeler

 

[mr. b_98GT]

I didn't want to spend that much just yet on an alternator, so I picked up an upgraded 130 amp Ford Reman. alternator for ~$130 + $75 core charge from Autonation Ford White-Bear Lake (they are a vendor here). I have it on standby for now, but I'm probably going to install it in a month or so just to be on the safe side. I'll ether send in the old one for the core charge or get it rebuilt for a spare. I'm carefully watching the voltage, and it seems like the alternator is starting to go. It stays between 13.2 - 14.2 while driving, but sometimes when I first start the car, it reads ~11.x at first, and once I hit the throttle, it jumps to 14.1-14.2. I'll probably go with a Nations with the external regulator when I do decide to spend that much.

 

[blownfox]

Thanks everyone for the input!

I'm running a VMP BAP and it should put an extra load on the alternator. I'm still not sure if it's over spinning the alternators that kills them or they did not have enough amps from the factory to support the car.

Bdubbs I remember reading you thread on the nations alternator (great thread BTW!). It seems like alignment issues will be the same on the Mechman. How was the customer service from Nations?

 

[Bdubbs]

Thanks everyone for the input!

I'm running a VMP BAP and it should put an extra load on the alternator. I'm still not sure if it's over spinning the alternators that kills them or they did not have enough amps from the factory to support the car.

Bdubbs I remember reading you thread on the nations alternator (great thread BTW!). It seems like alignment issues will be the same on the Mechman. How was the customer service from Nations?

Thanks. I haven't really contacted them with my alignment issue's. I probably should have, for the sake of others running into problems with it. Only have half a summer on this unit, we'll see how it goes this year.

 

[jwcobra03]

I have around 5k miles on my Nation's. Still going strong with only the flickering light issue at high rpm's.

 

[jrgoffin]

I’m looking to replace/upgrade my alternator. The current one is not bad but I know these cars have issues with alternators. On hot idle I see 13.2ish on the aero-force gauge ( I do have a warning light set at 12.6). My car has long tubes and aftermarket hood vents which might help with heat. I was looking at a Mechman 170 AMP or Nations but which one is better? I know Nations have a battery light that will come on at higher RMPS and I think Mechman a fix for that. I would rebuild the stock one and save it as a spare. I’m only thinking about this because I will be doing some small visual upgrades. The car will be down for a couple of weeks and the battery will be out. My wife drives this car more than I get to and do not want her stranded on the side of the road.

Would I need to do a wire upgrade with the 170 AMP upgrade?

As an FYI, I've found that the AeroForce gauge reads about 0.5V low for some reason (or maybe it's just mine). I confirmed this with a voltmeter as well as a digital readout on a capacitor in my trunk that is attached to the sub/amp I run.

A good option for a custom alternator is to find a local shop that specializes in alternators and starter: they can rebuild one (with all new parts, of course) to your specs. I have a 170A custom in mine that was done locally and it has been plugging away just fine for 2+ years (cost about $150). Also, the Terminator alternator is just a V-6 105A unit with a specific pulley and post that fits the packaging under the hood.

Some reading on the subject:

http://www.modularfords.com/threads/235857-Terminator-quot-Alternator-101-quot

I didn't want to spend that much just yet on an alternator, so I picked up an upgraded 130 amp Ford Reman. alternator for ~$130 + $75 core charge from Autonation Ford White-Bear Lake (they are a vendor here). I have it on standby for now, but I'm probably going to install it in a month or so just to be on the safe side. I'll ether send in the old one for the core charge or get it rebuilt for a spare. I'm carefully watching the voltage, and it seems like the alternator is starting to go. It stays between 13.2 - 14.2 while driving, but sometimes when I first start the car, it reads ~11.x at first, and once I hit the throttle, it jumps to 14.1-14.2. I'll probably go with a Nations with the external regulator when I do decide to spend that much.

The Ford remanufactured alternators are not 130A - they are 105A just like stock. Along with the link above, here's more reading on that:

http://www.terminator-cobra.com/electrical.htm#Alternator

 

[mr. b_98GT]

As an FYI, I've found that the AeroForce gauge reads about 0.5V low for some reason (or maybe it's just mine). I confirmed this with a voltmeter as well as a digital readout on a capacitor in my trunk that is attached to the sub/amp I run.

A good option for a custom alternator is to find a local shop that specializes in alternators and starter: they can rebuild one (with all new parts, of course) to your specs. I have a 170A custom in mine that was done locally and it has been plugging away just fine for 2+ years (cost about $150). Also, the Terminator alternator is just a V-6 105A unit with a specific pulley and post that fits the packaging under the hood.

Some reading on the subject:

http://www.modularfords.com/threads/235857-Terminator-quot-Alternator-101-quot



The Ford remanufactured alternators are not 130A - they are 105A just like stock. Along with the link above, here's more reading on that:

http://www.terminator-cobra.com/electrical.htm#Alternator

I never heard of that with the Aeroforce gauges. I'm planning on getting one for the car, but right now I can read the voltage off the Pioneer stereo in the car. It has a screen with a few gauges, and I have one set for the voltage. I'll have to check this out when I do get an Aeroforce gauge. Thanks for the heads up.

There is a alternator/starter shop not too far from my office that's been there for years, and I was going to swing by there one day and talk to them. That's a great price for a 170amp alternator too. Might go that route for the spare.

I know the stock 03 Ford Reman. alternators are only 105 amps, but the one I picked up is supposed to be an upgraded version that is 130 amps, part number is 2R3Z-10V346-BDRM, and it comes with the correct pulley for our cars. I hope it's 130 amps, but for all I know it very well could be just a stock reman 105 amp alternator. I might take it to that alternator/starter shop I mentioned above to have it tested just to know if it is indeed 130 amps or just 105.

 

[jrgoffin]

I know the stock 03 Ford Reman. alternators are only 105 amps, but the one I picked up is supposed to be an upgraded version that is 130 amps, part number is 2R3Z-10V346-BDRM, and it comes with the correct pulley for our cars. I hope it's 130 amps, but for all I know it very well could be just a stock reman 105 amp alternator. I might take it to that alternator/starter shop I mentioned above to have it tested just to know if it is indeed 130 amps or just 105.

They are all "small-case" 105A units. The link I provided has the info.

 

[fitforspeed]

After having my stock alternator rebuilt twice, the third time I decided to try something different. I got a Start-n-charge unit from a I think his name is Jamie, believe he was a member here. Don't know that he still is. I heard that he doesn't do them any more, but if you find one of his alternators for sale I would buy it. Have had zero problems with mine since purchase. A none of theses alignment issues others have mentioned with these other choices.

 

[mr. b_98GT]

They are all "small-case" 105A units. The link I provided has the info.

I checked out the link. Bookmarked it for future reference. I also just measured, and it is indeed a "small case" unit, so it most likely is going to be a 105amp version. Oh, well, I'll get this one installed and see how long it lasts, but I'm definitely going to keep the old one and have it upgraded to 170 amp for a spare.

 

[servinbeatdowns]

I have a Nation Auto with external regulator as well. Nice unit, looks good. The regulators aren't great, but good. I also purchased a 250 amp alternator and it's running great. Had to send the Nations auto unit back for repair of regulator. I don't believe the unit was at fault though. I was running a crappy advance auto silver battery and it didn't have enough CCA's (700) to hold the charge being produced. I upgraded all my wiring and grounds ( the big 3) and purchased a optima battery that has 1000 CCA's no flickering of dash lights. I said all of that to say this. You're gonna keep burning up alternators if you don't upgrade battery and wiring. Trust me I have went through so many units I could scream! It's frustrating to say the least. I'm about 7k miles in now and I'm crossing my fingers, but so far so good. Best of luck to all of us Cobra owners. My vote still goes to Nations Auto but please don't run a crappy battery and upgrade your wiring.

 

[blownfox]

Thank you everyone for your input! lots of good information in this thread. I'm going to hold off on the alternator for now. I decided to pick up a lean protection module instead.

 

[hotcobra03]

For some testing on this..

I just came across an issue with ground wire from battery to radiator support.

I never seen 14v inside my car and volts were all over the board..

When hot it was worst..

Even head lights would dim.


Issues I'm thinking was causes by this ground since new..

Not large enough to carry load
And was affected by heat..

I just ran a new ground and now I'm getting 14v steady. .

Went to ausin over weekend..ran car with ac on for hours and never seen it drop below 14.

At night. .lights appear fine now

So for test..if you were to add a larger ground jumper and see if it changes your issues. .

Ive seen alot on alt issues..many upgraded wiring but don't recall anyone saying body ground was an issue..

 

[jblood37]

I picked up a used start and charge. It has been flawless so far. Before that I bought a unit from eBay that a lot of people have had luck with. Wasn't worth a shit.

 

[mr. b_98GT]

For some testing on this..

I just came across an issue with ground wire from battery to radiator support.

I never seen 14v inside my car and volts were all over the board..

When hot it was worst..

Even head lights would dim.


Issues I'm thinking was causes by this ground since new..

Not large enough to carry load
And was affected by heat..

I just ran a new ground and now I'm getting 14v steady. .

Went to ausin over weekend..ran car with ac on for hours and never seen it drop below 14.

At night. .lights appear fine now

So for test..if you were to add a larger ground jumper and see if it changes your issues. .

Ive seen alot on alt issues..many upgraded wiring but don't recall anyone saying body ground was an issue..

What size wire did you use?

 

[badcobra]

If you are on Facebook, contact a fellow named Justin Wheeler. He took over the Start n Charge operation and builds new alternators with the best parts. Also has wire upgrades he makes and sells.

 

[bradfield]

As stated above, look up Justin Wheeler/J2Fab on facebook in the Cobra groups.