Whipple 2.3 help with supporting mods

SsnakeSVT03

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Hi guys, finally bought a terminator. My main goal with this car is reliability and keeping the motor healthy. This car will be a weekend cruiser. I do not plan on taking it to the track.

Anyways, I have a Gen 1 or 2 Whipple 2.3 (not sure how to tell what gen it is?) and plan to install it soon. What supporting mods are required? I have searched the forums and been reading a lot of mixed information. I don’t plan on running crazy boost or aiming to make big numbers. Probably anywhere from 15-18 psi with a 3.0” upper and stock lower on 93 pump gas.


Here is what I have pieced together so far/mod list:

· Whipple 2.3
· 3.0” Upper Pulley w/Stock Lower
· LFP Big Mouth Single Blade Throttle Body
· Larger sweeping elbow on the Whipple
· Siemens Deka 60lb Injectors
· Kenne Bell Boost A Pump (BAP)
· Ford GT Fuel Pumps or may run the DeatschWerks 03-04 Cobra 340lph Compact Fuel Pumps (direct replacement of stock pumps?)
· LFP Even Flow Head Cooling Mod
· Diablo MAFia (May swap out for SCT 2600 or 3000 BA MAF?)
· WMS Cold Air Intake system with stock intake pipe (May swap out for JLT RAI or High Boost Intake?)
· NGK TR6 Sparkplugs
· Factory manifolds
· Bassani Off-road X pipe
· Borla Stingers Catback
· SCT Tuner
· JLT Oil Catch Cans (both sides)
· H&R Sport Springs w/MM Isolators
· MM CC plates
· IRS Brace
· Full Length Subframe Connectors
· Toyo R888 Tires
· McLeod Clutch
· IRS Bushings

Would I need to upgrade the heat exchanger? Or will the stock heat exchanger hold up fine with this combination?

The car will be getting tuned professionally. Your input/advice is appreciated.

Cheers.
 
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02gt87

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Not absolutely required to upgrade that heat exchanger but it helps with the IATs and besides it just looks nicer behind the front bumper. I do suggest getting a Kenne bell frps disc to protect the frps. Those sensors are very sensitive and the fuel pressure spikes damage those costly sensors over time. A busted frps can leave you stranded if you don't keep a spare.

Sent from my SM-G977U using Tapatalk
 

CobraSam

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Not sure if you’re wanting to get into it but, Boundary Oil pump gears and the updated metal tensioners(Ford). And while you’re in there put on a Stewart water pump as well. Just trying to think of things that aren’t on your list. Oh ya, while doing the clutch, put a 26 spline input shaft in. But you’ll have a damn nice street car on your hands with all those mods.

Also, go with an AccuFab TB. I battled several different TB on my car and AccuFab was the only one that performs 100% flawless. That’s just my experience.

Have fun
 

01yellercobra

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JMO....

You shouldn't need the BAP with the GT pumps. Keep it on hand just in case, but I wouldn't install it yet. My buddy is running a similar combo and doesn't need the BAP. I think my old GT pumps took me into the 600 range on my centri set up.

Ditch the MAFia and get a bigger MAF. Your tuner will thank you.

After dealing with an RAI and high boost, I prefer the RAI. Less hassle to get to the plugs. And since you're not going for high power it should flow enough.

I'm pretty sure you only need a catch can on the driver side on these cars.

I would upgrade the heat exchanger. While I didn't notice a drop in temps when cruising I did notice it recovered faster after a pull. And that was with the eaton.
 

03 Indy Cobra

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Like said above you don't need the boost a pump with the GT pumps. What you will need is a dual FPDM set up or a modified FPDM with the GT pumps. Also like said above get the bigger MAF.
 

TurboGA

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Hi guys, finally bought a terminator. My main goal with this car is reliability and keeping the motor healthy. This car will be a weekend cruiser. I do not plan on taking it to the track.

Anyways, I have a Gen 1 or 2 Whipple 2.3 (not sure how to tell what gen it is?) and plan to install it soon. What supporting mods are required? I have searched the forums and been reading a lot of mixed information. I don’t plan on running crazy boost or aiming to make big numbers. Probably anywhere from 15-18 psi with a 3.0” upper and stock lower on 93 pump gas.


Here is what I have pieced together so far/mod list:

· Whipple 2.3
· 3.0” Upper Pulley w/Stock Lower
· LFP Big Mouth Single Blade Throttle Body
· Larger sweeping elbow on the Whipple
· Siemens Deka 60lb Injectors
· Kenne Bell Boost A Pump (BAP)
· Ford GT Fuel Pumps
· LFP Even Flow Head Cooling Mod
· Diablo MAFia (May swap out for SCT 2600 or 3000 BA MAF?)
· WMS Cold Air Intake system with stock intake pipe (May swap out for JLT RAI or High Boost Intake?)
· NGK TR6 Sparkplugs
· Factory manifolds
· Bassani Off-road X pipe
· Borla Stingers Catback
· SCT Tuner
· JLT Oil Catch Cans (both sides)
· H&R Sport Springs w/MM Isolators
· MM CC plates
· IRS Brace
· Full Length Subframe Connectors
· Toyo R888 Tires
· McLeod Clutch
· IRS Bushings

Would I need to upgrade the heat exchanger? Or will the stock heat exchanger hold up fine with this combination?

The car will be getting tuned professionally. Your input/advice is appreciated.


2.3 Whipple, you really don't need the bigger elbow at this time, Accufab TB, JLT intake, min 60 lb injectors, double 255 intanks, 3.0 pulley and stock lower (15 lbs boost), SCT 3000 maf, heads cool mod, TR6 plugs, some type of headers not the stock manifolds with the Whipple, a Spec 2+ clutch will be enough to support the power of the car, SCT tune, MT ET street SS or R drag radial, X pipe and axleback

Cheers.
 

SsnakeSVT03

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JMO....

You shouldn't need the BAP with the GT pumps. Keep it on hand just in case, but I wouldn't install it yet. My buddy is running a similar combo and doesn't need the BAP. I think my old GT pumps took me into the 600 range on my centri set up.

Ditch the MAFia and get a bigger MAF. Your tuner will thank you.

After dealing with an RAI and high boost, I prefer the RAI. Less hassle to get to the plugs. And since you're not going for high power it should flow enough.

I'm pretty sure you only need a catch can on the driver side on these cars.

I would upgrade the heat exchanger. While I didn't notice a drop in temps when cruising I did notice it recovered faster after a pull. And that was with the eaton.

How did you run the GT pumps? Stock hat? Did you run dual FPDM or a modified FPDM ?
 

SsnakeSVT03

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01yellercobra

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How did you run the GT pumps? Stock hat? Did you run dual FPDM or a modified FPDM ?
Stock hat, stock FPDM, and the wiring upgrade. I never had an issue with thermal shutdown or anything like that. But I think the upgraded FPDM will drop the duty cycle a but more.
 

c6zhombre

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I have a gen2 (build date 2007), factory manifolds, fore hat with original (non-ethanol rated) GT pumps, bap, dual fpdm, wiring upgrade, -8 feed. 3.0 upper/factory lower pump 93, 2.6 upper/factory lower for E85. It has the standard whipple elbow, factory air inlet with an amsoil filter. Factory maf with mafia. Drives like factory until you stomp on it. 560 wheel pump 93, 714 wheel E85. Same setup for 11 years just keeps on rolling year after year. 04sleeper tuned.
 

01yellercobra

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I have a gen2 (build date 2007), factory manifolds, fore hat with original (non-ethanol rated) GT pumps, bap, dual fpdm, wiring upgrade, -8 feed. 3.0 upper/factory lower pump 93, 2.6 upper/factory lower for E85. It has the standard whipple elbow, factory air inlet with an amsoil filter. Factory maf with mafia. Drives like factory until you stomp on it. 560 wheel pump 93, 714 wheel E85. Same setup for 11 years just keeps on rolling year after year. 04sleeper tuned.

While the MAFia can be made to work, there's no point in running one with all the MAF options out there now. Are they even available anymore?

Don't the new GT pumps flow more than the old school ones? A plus IMO.
 

c6zhombre

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While the MAFia can be made to work, there's no point in running one with all the MAF options out there now. Are they even available anymore?

Don't the new GT pumps flow more than the old school ones? A plus IMO.

Did you read the OPs first post? Already has a mafia. It will work perfectly fine and can be hidden retaining factory look. Some do not want an aftermarket look on the inlet side like huge maf housing or aftermarket rai/cai kits. The factory housing and inlet tube are surprisingly capable to over 700 wheel.

Not sure why you are commenting on the pumps. I didn't say go out and find old GT pumps. Was only mentioning how capable the old style GT pump has performed on my car. I'm sure the newer improved GT pump is more than capable.
 

01yellercobra

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Did you read the OPs first post? Already has a mafia. It will work perfectly fine and can be hidden retaining factory look. Some do not want an aftermarket look on the inlet side like huge maf housing or aftermarket rai/cai kits. The factory housing and inlet tube are surprisingly capable to over 700 wheel.

Not sure why you are commenting on the pumps. I didn't say go out and find old GT pumps. Was only mentioning how capable the old style GT pump has performed on my car. I'm sure the newer improved GT pump is more than capable.

Yes, I read the original post. And I still suggest ditching the MAFia. I've tuned with and without them. It's easier to deal with an aftermarket MAF that doesn't have a random step in the middle of the curve. If you want to keep the stock look move the sensor over to the stock plastic housing and remove the big SCT sticker. The housings are the same diameter so it'll work fine.

I'm glad your car has worked for as long as it has. But things have changed. Mostly for the better.

I know you didn't. I was just asking if the newer pumps flow better. That's all. I'm not up on the new pump stuff since I decided to go return.

As I said in my first post, this all just my opinion.
 
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