Whipple 2.9 Install

[bg302]

Just finished the install of my 2.9 Whipple kit on my 2012 today and f

ired her up for the first time. Figured I'd do a write up for anyone thinking about doing this in the future. Install wasn't bad, took me 3 weekends working a few hours a day and double checking my work. First pic is after I removed the lower air dam, both front wheel well liners and front fascia. The fascia took me a bit to figure out but there are only two bolts up top and one bolt in each fenderwell. The sides snap out with a little force. Unplug the side markers and ambient air temp sensor. Next disconnect fuel injector wiring, EVAP solenoid, fuel supply line (pull fuel pump driver plug in trunk and start car until it dies), both PCV hoses and MAF sensor. Pull wiring harness mounts (3) from the rear of the intake manifold. Remove 8 bolts securing the intake manifold and lift the manifold up and out. Clean and tape the intake ports on the cylinder heads for now. You have to modify the knock sensors wiring harness and loosen and turn the sensors towards the block to make room for the Whipple manifold. There are some heater hose modifications that need to be made also along with installing new heater hose connectors in the block. Install the provided fuel injectors, fuel rails and hoses and intake o rings to the Whipple manifold. Remove previously installed tape, install manifold carefully. Torque manifold bolts. Install provided spark plugs gapped to .028". Install fittings on blower head unit and make sure o rings are seated properly on intake manifold. Install EVAP solenoid bracket and solenoid on head unit. Carefully set head unit down onto intake manifold and torque bolts. Assemble drive system. Whipple drive plate did not require me to grind my timing cover. Make sure all pulleys are torqued. Install provided belt. Make sure the provided tensioner is at about 75% of its travel when cold. This can be adjusted using the adjustable idler on the drivers side of the block. Assemble intercooler brackets and (in my case) fans/brackets. Slide cooler assembly up from the bottom of the bumper and secure to bumper bolts. Install intercooler pump/tank under the drivers side headlight using supplied hardware. Factory horn is relocated to this bracket also. Install all intercooler hoses making sure not to kink any of them. Run provided wiring harnesses from intercooler pump and fans up to fuse box. Main power attaches to the 12V lug on fuse box and relay control wire attaches to a fuse inside the box. Reattach any coolant hoses removed in earlier steps. Assemble the provided air intake system. Install wiring adapters for the IAT relocation. Install stock MAF sensor in new intake system. Fill radiator and intercooler system with anti freeze. After a lot of research, I found out that the Ford orange coolant is nothing more than Dexcool. Prestone has the premix Dexcool for $12 a gallon and on the back it states that it meets the Ford spec that our Coyotes call for in the manual. I used a vacuum purge/refill tool to fill my systems. Works great. I turned the key to run to fire up the pump/fans to check for leaks.
Now you can reassemble your fascia/fenderwells. I had to cut some material out of my fascia to get everything to clear the fans/cooler. Wasn't bad, just test fit and check as you go. Finally got everything to fit right. I ended up installing a Boss 320s grille as the stock one requires too much modification, fog lights have to go. I welcome the added airflow. Download whatever tune you have before you try to start the motor. It took my tuner 3 base tunes before I could keep her running. Install fuel pump voltage booster. I used the JMS unit specific to the 11-14 Mustangs. Start car and let her idle for awhile while listening and checking for leaks. Once you're comfortable up to this point, take her out for a drive. I drove easy because I'm on a base tune. Full dyno tune coming this week. Hopefully this helps other people out that are planning on this. Feel free to get a hold of me if you run into any snags.

 

[gt5.0coyote]

Nice bro! Sweet write up!! Have fun!!

 

[fishpick]

@bg302 so did you not do the OPG's then?
Seems like your install basically follows Whipple's instructions w/o a lot of added drama - that's GREAT!

How do you like it on the road?

 

[Paul.]

My install was pretty straightforward too. Whipple's instructions are pretty clear. Fired right up the first time and drove like a champ.

 

[Dreams2Reality]

Nice job! Looking forward to the dyno results.

 

[bg302]

@bg302 so did you not do the OPG's then?
Seems like your install basically follows Whipple's instructions w/o a lot of added drama - that's GREAT!

How do you like it on the road?

I did have the OPG's and sprocket done. My tuner gave me a good deal on the install along with the dyno tune. I ended up with the kit from MMR. I drove it yesterday but I'm still on my tuners base tune. She drives like stock but is not happy if I go into boost. I'm scheduled for a dyno tune this Thursday. She's tuned good enough to drive her there.

 

[Paul.]

Did you buy a kit with no tune? The calibration that Whipple provided me with my kit was great.

 

[bg302]

@bg302 so did you not do the OPG's then?
Seems like your install basically follows Whipple's instructions w/o a lot of added drama - that's GREAT!

How do you like it on the road?

The only issues I had were missing fittings for the heater hose modifications, which Whipple sent out overnight, and the leaking upper radiator hose where it joins the plastic tee. The o ring was flat. Apparently you can't buy just the o ring, had to get a new hose.

 

[bg302]

Did you buy a kit with no tune? The calibration that Whipple provided me with my kit was great.

Paul, I read through your write up, very well written.
I did not order the Whipple tuner as I already have an X4 from my last tune. My tuner wrote me a base tune so I can drive her over there. I'm sure the Whipple tune works fine but I just feel better with a dyno tune. I have a good relationship with my tuner and he is very well known around Colorado for his tunes.

 

[Paul.]

I had that same problem with one of my radiator hoses. The O-ring was squished and wouldn't create a good seal. Fortunately, my buddy had another coyote motor sitting around and we stole the radiator hose from it, which worked.

Good luck with the tune and the dyno. Let us know your combination and the results. It appears you have a larger pulley than I do (3.875" vs my 3.75" pulley) and you're using the stock throttle body as well. What other mods do you have? I'm very interested to see the results!!

Paul.

 

[SVTStampede]

The only issues I had were missing fittings for the heater hose modifications, which Whipple sent out overnight, and the leaking upper radiator hose where it joins the plastic tee. The o ring was flat. Apparently you can't buy just the o ring, had to get a new hose.

Looks great. I wish I had not have sold mine. The whipple looks and sounds the best...and obviously has no issue making power.

As for the O-ring. I just went through this myself. You actually can get the O-ring by itself. Ford doesn't list it under it's "parts search" for the upper hose, but it is RTS-1073 if i remember correctly. The F-150 5.0 guys figured it out. Too late for you, but In case anyone else has the same issue.

I actually noticed the O ring on the bottom side of the T was also leaking, so might want to check yours. It would do a couple drips if I wiggled it. I could not find that part number so I had to replace the whole T for that one.

 

[bg302]

Looks great. I wish I had not have sold mine. The whipple looks and sounds the best...and obviously has no issue making power.

As for the O-ring. I just went through this myself. You actually can get the O-ring by itself. Ford doesn't list it under it's "parts search" for the upper hose, but it is RTS-1073 if i remember correctly. The F-150 5.0 guys figured it out. Too late for you, but In case anyone else has the same issue.

I actually noticed the O ring on the bottom side of the T was also leaking, so might want to check yours. It would do a couple drips if I wiggled it. I could not find that part number so I had to replace the whole T for that one.

Good info on the o ring. I thought I was able to find the o ring for the plastic tee on Fordparts.com, I'll have to go back and look.

 

[bg302]

I had that same problem with one of my radiator hoses. The O-ring was squished and wouldn't create a good seal. Fortunately, my buddy had another coyote motor sitting around and we stole the radiator hose from it, which worked.

Good luck with the tune and the dyno. Let us know your combination and the results. It appears you have a larger pulley than I do (3.875" vs my 3.75" pulley) and you're using the stock throttle body as well. What other mods do you have? I'm very interested to see the results!!

Paul.

Whipple probably gave me that pulley because I'm only looking for 8 lbs to start. I kept the stock tbody for now, I can upgrade later, it's easy enough to change. I want to see where my power numbers end up...sounds silly but I don't want to make too much power, I want some longevity out of the motor. It only has 28k on it.

 

[gimmie11s]

love those front feed whipples... sweet set up!

 

[bg302]

I had that same problem with one of my radiator hoses. The O-ring was squished and wouldn't create a good seal. Fortunately, my buddy had another coyote motor sitting around and we stole the radiator hose from it, which worked.

Good luck with the tune and the dyno. Let us know your combination and the results. It appears you have a larger pulley than I do (3.875" vs my 3.75" pulley) and you're using the stock throttle body as well. What other mods do you have? I'm very interested to see the results!!

Paul.

Paul, I meant to ask you, is that a Boss 302 STB you are using? Also it looks like you used a UPR catch can and just modified the OEM type connectors on some 5/8" hose. Seems nobody makes a plug and play catch can for our setups.

 

[Paul.]

I think you're mixing me up with someone else - I don't have a strut tower brace or catch cans installed right now. Somebody posted a link to one for the 2015+ cars that looks like it would work with the 2011-14 motors, but I've not explored it any further. I'm having some belt squeaking issues, so Whipple just sent me new standoffs for the idler pulley plate and a big billet tensioner.

Paul.

 

[bg302]

I think you're mixing me up with someone else - I don't have a strut tower brace or catch cans installed right now. Somebody posted a link to one for the 2015+ cars that looks like it would work with the 2011-14 motors, but I've not explored it any further. I'm having some belt squeaking issues, so Whipple just sent me new standoffs for the idler pulley plate and a big billet tensioner.

Paul.

My bad I thought it was yours for some reason. Hope they figure out the belt squeak issue....

 

[bg302]

Well, got her tuned last night. Numbers are a lot better than I thought they would be considering I'm still running the stock headers and cats. 9.5 psi on 91 octane.

 

[Paul.]

Great numbers!! You'very got to beat thrilled with that. What RPM are you spinning it to? Who did the tune? Any other mods?

Paul.

 

[bg302]

Great numbers!! You'very got to beat thrilled with that. What RPM are you spinning it to? Who did the tune? Any other mods?

Paul.

Thanks, I'm happy with the results for sure. Tuner went to 7000 rpm. Tuner is Rob Williams, owner of RWR Racing here in Colorado. MBRP 3" exhaust from cats back, 3" H pipe, full suspension. Air box lid off.