Wideband issues AGAIN

[DaveWertz]

So im on my 3rd wide band in 2yrs. This current one has maybe 500 miles on it. This morning I pulled out of my driveway, readings said 14-15 at idle which is normal but then steadily went up then flat lines. Cruising is at flat lines. Only when I cycle the key on and off I get numbers. WTH is going on with this thing? I have it grounded in the fuse box and powered in there as well. These sensors are to expensive to replace twice a year. Any ideas?

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[98 svt]

Only time I get the flat likes is when I left off the gas to coast

 

[DaveWertz]

Yeah mine's constant now. Did the same thing when the last 2 gauges crapped out

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[robvas]

What brand?

 

[DaveWertz]

AEM with Bosch sensor

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[Roots-type]

At what position is the sensor's bung welded in?

 

[DaveWertz]

Its in the x pipe where the rear 02 sensors were. So id say 2-3 o'clock position.

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[DaveWertz]

So I lied. For some reason I was thinking my sensor was in the 2 or 10 position. Its more like 3 o'clock position. Could this really be causing my sensors to burn out that quick? Its the only thing i can think of thats burning these out.

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[Blown38]

If its in a factory bung i would have another short bung welded on top of the factory bung. So the sensor is out of the direct exhaust flow. Or you could just try a spark plug anti fouler.

If you want to put it in a different position in the exhaust. They sell a long bung. Sometimes the sensors get overheated sitting in the exhaust stream.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

I assume a free air calibration isn’t correcting it?

 

[DaveWertz]

I tried on the first one and it did nothing

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[DaveWertz]

If I pull the sensor directly out of the stream will it give me a false reading? I wouldnt be opposed to using a anti fouler but always assumed they should be within the flow of exhaust to be accurate

If its in a factory bung i would have another short bung welded on top of the factory bung. So the sensor is out of the direct exhaust flow. Or you could just try a spark plug anti fouler.

If you want to put it in a different position in the exhaust. They sell a long bung. Sometimes the sensors get overheated sitting in the exhaust stream.

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[Blown38]

I want to say it doesn't affect it, but not sure, never used one. I think they have a small opening in them that I would definitely cut off or drill bigger.

Here is where the sensor sits in the long bung for reference.

 

[SVTdreamin04]

I would be moving that sensor up to around the 2 o’clock position. I bet your problems will go away once you do this. I have mine in that position. I’m running a Bosch wideband with AEM gauge. It’s been in there for four years on E85 with zero issues.


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[2DXTRM]

I would be moving that sensor up to around the 2 o’clock position. I bet your problems will go away once you do this. I have mine in that position. I’m running a Bosch wideband with AEM gauge. It’s been in there for four years on E85 with zero issues.


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This.
Move it up somewhere in the 10 o clock to 2 o clock range. or straight up and down in the 12 o clock, IF there is room.

The Bosch LSU 4.9 sensors are very sensitive to thermal shock. I just went through the same thing last week. Not even 50 miles on the sensor that came with my AEM gauge.

read this link:

Why Bosch LSU wide-band air/fuel ratio (or Lambda) sensors fail so often in aftermarket performance applications - NZEFI

Bosch is the world's leading manufacturer of exhaust gas oxygen sensors. Their LSU range of wide-band sensors has been widely adopted by the OEMs and can be found on a huge number of production vehicles to accurately measure Lambda or the air/fuel ratio (AFR) in the exhaust system. Their common...

www.nzefi.com

 

[q6543]

I had alot of wideband issues, what solved It for me was.

I put my wideband on a switch, so after the car is running/idling from a cold start for a minute or so... then I power up the wideband.

The element is super fragile, key on engine off(before) it starts heating the element... then on a cold start you run the risk of thermal shock to the sensor causing it to break.