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Wiring up an N2MB WOT box and Raptor shift Light on a 2009 GT500

Discussion in 'SVT Shelby GT500' started by ZOMBEAST, Aug 5, 2018.

  1. ZOMBEAST

    ZOMBEAST Killed by Death Established Member

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    Finally getting around to installing an N2MB wot box that I've had laying around for about a year. They don't come with instructions. I downloaded the somewhat specific instructions from the N2MB site. So far it's going well. I'm now in the process of wiring it. There's now an orange wire instead of a black wire that needed to be split from the red wire. No big deal. Found that out on the site. Started with the fuse box wiring for the red and orange wires which states to cut into fuse #42. Turns out it's fuse #41. No biggie. Figured that out pretty easily because it's the only one in the first block with a double red wire. Wired the black to chassis ground near the battery. Started the car, and all is good.

    Next step is the remaining wires to be soldered at the PCM. I also plan to do the Raptor light at the PCM too.

    Anyone do the PCM wiring recently and find the N2MB or Raptor dual shift light pin locations and/or wire colors to be incorrect?

    I plan to finish this up next weekend.
     
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  2. SVT_Mill3R

    SVT_Mill3R New Member

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    I just finished mine on Friday, on the PCM it’s the middle connector and the bottom do not use the top one, and also there is 2 wires on the middle pcm connector.


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  3. SVT_Mill3R

    SVT_Mill3R New Member

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    Haven’t done the shift light tho which I also have


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  4. lexustech48

    lexustech48 I like Fords n stuff Premium Member Established Member

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    Make sure you inspect the female pins on the harness connector. I had one that opened up a little and caused an intermittent loss of ignition when hitting bumps in the road. I made sure to close up the female pins and not a problem since.

    That little WOT box is bad ass man, and once you upgrade your timing system (if you decide to) the 2 step looks like a winner as well.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2018
  5. Willie

    Willie Active Member Established Member

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    The "problem" with the box, as far as I see it (you may not) is that it splices in series into the injector feed and it is NOT a pass-thru design. I asked this question directly to N2MB and they verified it. No problem with this.... except if something goes haywire with the box. And what I don't like is that the box is powered 100 percent of the time the motor is running. What percentage of time are you actually using it's features? Probably 5 percent or so..... So... I discussed this with N2MB and was able to develop an alternative way of wiring it, so that I can turn it off when the motor is running.

    I only turn it on when I use it. This is a pic of the switches I use when I drive "enthusiastically", shall we say >>
    05133c.JPG
     
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  6. lexustech48

    lexustech48 I like Fords n stuff Premium Member Established Member

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    And now a view of @Willie 's shifter
    too-close-for-missiles-goose-tmswitching-to-guns-3763288.png
     
  7. Willie

    Willie Active Member Established Member

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    LOL....
    Mine doesn't have any buttons though.... It's a Hurst pistol grip found in the '70 Challenger....
    20180702_143711.jpg

    I forgot to mention that the N2MB shift light, if it's programmed, will work even if the arming switch is turned off.....

    Willie
     
  8. ZOMBEAST

    ZOMBEAST Killed by Death Established Member

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    What year is your car, and were the pin locations correct on the instructions?
     
  9. ZOMBEAST

    ZOMBEAST Killed by Death Established Member

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    I actually was thinking about that. I was thinking about splicing in a male and female connector and leave them disconnected, or even a fuse holder which I could just pop a fuse in. In both cases I would disconnect the harness at the wot box. I like your idea of using a switch. Are you using a single relay with both normally open and normally closed contacts? BTW, I like your cockpit set-up.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2018
  10. ZOMBEAST

    ZOMBEAST Killed by Death Established Member

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    Yep, still stock, so just planning on using the no-lift shift for now.
     
  11. Reaper14

    Reaper14 Active Member Established Member

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    How bad is the install? I was thinking it would be a 1 day after work kind of project. Now Im thinking otherwise. Installing mine on my 5.0 this week...I hope

    V.C
     
  12. Willie

    Willie Active Member Established Member

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    This is my shift light, a simple blue 5mm LED, front and center, connected to the WOT box..

    LED Panel Driver.jpg
     
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  13. ZOMBEAST

    ZOMBEAST Killed by Death Established Member

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    It's not a bad install, just tedious and time consuming if you want to do it neatly and correctly. I think its a good 6 to 8 non-drinking hours for a first timer.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2018
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  14. ZOMBEAST

    ZOMBEAST Killed by Death Established Member

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    So I'm definitely going to take Willie's excellent advice, and use a relay to bypass the wot box when not needed. I love his idea of being able to switch it on while driving.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2018
  15. Reaper14

    Reaper14 Active Member Established Member

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    Ok good deal, thanks. Yes the way he has it wired seems much better than just plainly. I like the way he did his shift light dead center.

    V.C
     
  16. lexustech48

    lexustech48 I like Fords n stuff Premium Member Established Member

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    Its really not that bad. Having the r/f wheel off will help when you have to route the harness out of the passenger footwell to under the battery.

    I have mine hooked in at all times and so far (loose female connector not withstanding) ive had zero issues. I did make a jumper wire to connect the red and orange wires for a simple complete circuit if I don't want to have the box in.

    Willies solution is super clean, and one of many custom touches his badass car has. :D
     
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  17. ZOMBEAST

    ZOMBEAST Killed by Death Established Member

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    Here's just a couple pics of my progress so far.

    Mounted in glove box instead of behind kick panel.

    wotbox1.jpg
    Used 3/8" wire loom for the wot box wiring and went through oval slot, and 1/4" wire loom for the Raptor wiring through the other slot. Had to install the grommets after fishing looms through holes.
    wotbox2.jpg

    Took apart fuse box and soldered Wot box red wire to double red I cut from fuse # 41. Owners manual stated Engine #2. Used a tie wrap to hold things steady while soldering. You can see the other ends of the cut double red wires.
    wotbox3.jpg

    Soldered the wot box orange wire to the other cut portion of the double red wire. Used cardboard to prevent any solder from dropping inside. Don't forget to slide shrink tubing on before you solder. I purchased a package of different tubing sizes and used two for each solder joint.
    wotbox4.jpg

    Here it is before wrapping with electrical tape and putting the fuse box back together. Remember to always leave yourself a little extra wire before you decide to cut any from the wot box. It makes it easier to work with and just in case you make a mistake. In my case I'm glad I left a little extra so I can install the relay mentioned in previous posts.
    wotbox5.jpg
     
  18. Willie

    Willie Active Member Established Member

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    Nice, to say the least. Mine is also in my glove box, but hidden under some other "stuff". On the 9-pin DIN, I used a splitter. One branch's DIN connector can be seen on a panel in my glove box with my other "stuff". This is where I connect my laptop for programming. The other branch was used to hard wire in my shift light.

    Willie
     
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  19. 1BDCBRA

    1BDCBRA New Member

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  20. ZOMBEAST

    ZOMBEAST Killed by Death Established Member

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    Well I finally finished up the wiring of both the wot box and the Raptor dual shift light to the PCM. I used a shop electrical manual to verify correct pin locations. I'll admit it was a little stressful doing both at the same time, but probably much easier than doing them at a different time. You need to use some thought when cutting and soldering the wires for when the connectors have to be reconnected.

    I did wind up using a relay for the wot box activation as recommended by Willie. I located an unused switched fuse location from the kick panel box for power to the relay coil.

    Going through the wot box testing, I verified fast blinking when accelerator pressed to floor, and a one second steady light before fast blinking when clutch is also pressed while accelerator is still pressed to floor. Started car with no problem. No road testing box yet.

    One question I have is, with key on, and accelerator pressed to floor, there is some sound from the engine compartment. Is this normal?
     

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