Since I've had my car out this summer when the car is warm it does not want to crank. It'll roll over once, pause a second or two, roll over again, pause, then start cranking slowly and start. When it's cold or after its been sitting about half an hour it will start fine. Anybody else have this happen? I'm about 95% sure it's just the starter going bad but I'm going to voltage drop the wires to make sure nothing's wrong with that area. Just curious if starters are something that usually goes bad on these cars. It has almost 80k.
Starting problems when hot
- Thread starter ctgreddy
- Start date
How old is the battery? It could be the battery.
A guy on modfords just had the exact same issue and resolved it with a new cam sensor. Something to consider.
Won't fire when hot!?!
Won't fire when hot!?!
^ his issue is the car cranks and doesn't fire. my issue is it cranks SUPER slow when hot.
snake rider the battery is oem, so it's old and prolly is shot. but I'd think that if it was the battery it would be reverse, as in wont crank when it's been sitting for a while.
snake rider the battery is oem, so it's old and prolly is shot. but I'd think that if it was the battery it would be reverse, as in wont crank when it's been sitting for a while.
Has the car ever shut off while driving? i had the same issue when my alt was slowly dieing. Would crank fine and drive but after about 20 mins the car would sputter and shut off, then would barely crank over and wouldn't start... i could wait 5-10 mins and it would crank perfectly and drive 2-3 miles before getting hot again and sputtering due to lack of power to the pumps.
Cobra03sc how did u figure it was your alt? I'm having a problem very similar to yours.
Yes and no. It's done this all spring, but just 2 weeks ago it got retuned. but it's done this with the old tune and new one equally.
Hmm, ok. Well, I am not saying it is anything in the tune and tuners hate when you tell them that, but there is a crank fuel adjustment when the car is hot. I just don't know if the way the car cranks changes when that adjustment needs to be made.
Well the old tune is the same one I had last fall and it was fine then. I put a battery relocation on it but it has all new cables and all connections are tight. There's obviously something causing high resistance when it's hot just have to try and figure out what.
I had a volt guage in my car so i was just randomly watching it one day and it slowly started going down from 13.5 ish to around 8 and thats when my pumps just wouldnt pump fuel to the car and it would sputter out and die. Popped the hood and the alt was burning hot and after about 10 mins the volts went back to about 10ish but would slowly go back down to 8 and kill the pumps after about 3 miles. Swapped a battery i knew was good and managed to drive it home, watching the volts from the good battery drain from close to 14 to 10 before i pulled in the driveway. Swapped alts the next day and had no problems since. Ive had decent luck with my alts as this was the first and only time i killed one.
are you still running the OEM returnless, or you running a return setup....IIRC when hot some have issues with fuel boiling in the rails from engine bay heat, which on the old foxbodies some would resolve via holding gas pedal to floor while cranking.....not exactly sure why it worked, but it would.
What gauge wires are you using in the battery relocation kit? Did this start happening before or after the install of that kit? My first thought was a dying starter, that's a common symptom of that issue, but then you mentioned the battery relocation kit.
correct if it were a fuel boiling issue it wouldnt have any effect on how quickly it turns over, I didnt notice before posting that it was cranking slow...
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May just be the starter then.
Can you check starter draw? You need an inductive ammeter and place it over the battery cable. Neg or pos it doesnt matter. Anything upwards of 400 is high, you will usually see it peg the gauge when it starts to crank slow.
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