What are your passive income gigs?

tom_tom

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My wife’s uncle brought something similar over last spring, but it didn’t have enough ass to tear into the hard pack. A couple craters that I’m filling every year are probably getting to be about 6+ Inches deep.
Dig them out and put geotex 4-6 inches below the gravel.

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DSG2003Mach1

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Box blade is terrible, land plane with scarifiers is the way to go. There's probably 20,000 gravel driveways within 50 miles of where I live and nobody else does this besides me.

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Interesting. Had to google that. We have a box blade with the scarifiers but no idea how to use them. Played around with them once and ripped a section of trail but just seemed to make a mess
 

tom_tom

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Interesting. Had to google that. We have a box blade with the scarifiers but no idea how to use them. Played around with them once and ripped a section of trail but just seemed to make a mess
Box blades suck because they don't have shoes to ride on. This is a video I made on a driveway couple years ago, look hoe smooth it is after.


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93Cobra#2771

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You can make a box blade work, but it takes lots of practice. First I'll go through and drag it all down, cutting any humps/holes out and "stirring it all up". The goal is to get rid of surface irregularities at the hard packed base. Then, I shorten my top link so the edges of the box are the "shoes". That leaves the blade 1-2" above the hardened part of the driveway. Then I'll make a few more passes and level it all out like that.

Honestly, though, I've gotten good enough that I just keep my hand on the lever and watch/adjust if needed. It's rare that I'll shorten the top link.

I've had plenty of practice, as my driveway is 200' long and on a steep enough grade that it has to be maintained pretty regularly.

I'd love to have a land plane or a power rake, but what I have works good enough for me without having to shell out for one.

Starting a house build, so I'll get plenty more practice for sure.
 

93Cobra#2771

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Interesting. Had to google that. We have a box blade with the scarifiers but no idea how to use them. Played around with them once and ripped a section of trail but just seemed to make a mess
The box scarifiers aren't really usable on a driveway. They are more for busting up dirt, like a mini plow. They are too far apart and too big to do what needs to be done. Land plane scarifiers are basically short pegs and much closer together. Idea is they completely bust up the top crust, allowing the planes to grab the sunken gravel and spread it all back out.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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You can make a box blade work, but it takes lots of practice. First I'll go through and drag it all down, cutting any humps/holes out and "stirring it all up". The goal is to get rid of surface irregularities at the hard packed base. Then, I shorten my top link so the edges of the box are the "shoes". That leaves the blade 1-2" above the hardened part of the driveway. Then I'll make a few more passes and level it all out like that.

Honestly, though, I've gotten good enough that I just keep my hand on the lever and watch/adjust if needed. It's rare that I'll shorten the top link.

I've had plenty of practice, as my driveway is 200' long and on a steep enough grade that it has to be maintained pretty regularly.

I'd love to have a land plane or a power rake, but what I have works good enough for me without having to shell out for one.

Starting a house build, so I'll get plenty more practice for sure.

We’ve got a real long gravel drive that goes down a hill and around a corner. It got thrashed earlier this year by a series of floods. Had some culverts put in, re-crowned and 10 loads of gravel. The base is packed hard as hell after all these years.

We always used the box blade and it worked ok but I’ll have to check out your video later
 

Call me Chief

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Box blade is terrible, land plane with scarifiers is the way to go. There's probably 20,000 gravel driveways within 50 miles of where I live and nobody else does this besides me.

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I have a DR Power Grader. Keeps the driveway looking good and has probably saved me several thousand dollars by not having to by new gravel more than about every 10 years or so. Pull it behind a Kawasaki 750 Brute. However, it does not fix potholes. It will fill them in but they will come right back. You need to completely dig out a pot hole bottom and sides and then build it back up. The compressed earth is what causes the gravel to bounce out when you drive over it and that is what needs to be fixed. Shovel, mattox, box blade, track hoe, back hoe, neighbors kids looking to earn weed money, whatever you have access to for digging it up.

PG2-DR-Power-Grader-48in-300x170.jpg
 

PhoenixM3

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Rental properties are semi-passive income. Keep the tenants happy, don't jack the rent un-necessarily, and make sure they report problems when they occur. Working on a rental where the dishwasher leaked, and they didn't tell me. I now have wood flooring with warpage.
 

93Cobra#2771

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We’ve got a real long gravel drive that goes down a hill and around a corner. It got thrashed earlier this year by a series of floods. Had some culverts put in, re-crowned and 10 loads of gravel. The base is packed hard as hell after all these years.

We always used the box blade and it worked ok but I’ll have to check out your video later
Not my video.

If it's a pretty long driveway, I'd go ahead and invest in a land plane. You'll be kicking yourself for not doing so earlier.

If you use the yard box, use it when ground is wet/soft. That helps it cut into the hard pack better and lets you get rid of potholes.

We had a monsoon overnight, I'm sure I'll have to do some touchups on my driveway this week.
 

Morgan

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Rental properties are semi-passive income. Keep the tenants happy, don't jack the rent un-necessarily, and make sure they report problems when they occur. Working on a rental where the dishwasher leaked, and they didn't tell me. I now have wood flooring with warpage.

Have you considered multi family dwellings, smaller apartment complexes? I’m looking at a few, would engage a prop mgmt co obviously, but the upside seems terrific.
 

72MachOne99GT

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I have a DR Power Grader. Keeps the driveway looking good and has probably saved me several thousand dollars by not having to by new gravel more than about every 10 years or so. Pull it behind a Kawasaki 750 Brute. However, it does not fix potholes. It will fill them in but they will come right back. You need to completely dig out a pot hole bottom and sides and then build it back up. The compressed earth is what causes the gravel to bounce out when you drive over it and that is what needs to be fixed. Shovel, mattox, box blade, track hoe, back hoe, neighbors kids looking to earn weed money, whatever you have access to for digging it up.

View attachment 1839849

I just unloaded 7800 pounds of rock by hand last week to fill the holes and smooth out some low spots.

Like you said, it’s just a temporary fix. Without machinery there’s no way I can dig the holes out or get anywhere close to getting rid of the entire irregularity. Too many, too wide, too deep (so the opposite of my sex game).
 

PhoenixM3

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Have you considered multi family dwellings, smaller apartment complexes? I’m looking at a few, would engage a prop mgmt co obviously, but the upside seems terrific.
Thought about it, but am used to single family homes. Multi-unit issues like plumbing, roof leak, or HVAC issues concern me a little. At this point, I'd have to trade houses for multifamily thing. I'd only go to two 4 plexes or an 8 door unit.
 

tom_tom

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I have a DR Power Grader. Keeps the driveway looking good and has probably saved me several thousand dollars by not having to by new gravel more than about every 10 years or so. Pull it behind a Kawasaki 750 Brute. However, it does not fix potholes. It will fill them in but they will come right back. You need to completely dig out a pot hole bottom and sides and then build it back up. The compressed earth is what causes the gravel to bounce out when you drive over it and that is what needs to be fixed. Shovel, mattox, box blade, track hoe, back hoe, neighbors kids looking to earn weed money, whatever you have access to for digging it up.

View attachment 1839849
Expensive but the ABI TR3 is a pull behind that does fix potholes

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gimmie11s

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Mine's a side hustle, not passive income:

I set up weight distribution hitches for people with campers. Simple job, I have the tools, and I'm out two hours at the most. Price runs 200+, and usually ends up around 300-350 according to how much work I do.

You'd be surprised (or appalled) at the number of people who just bolt stuff together without a clue how it works. Half the time, I have to disassemble most of the hitch and then put it together correctly. Those will run in the 350 range.

Very specialized, and, and word of mouth advertising for the most part.


VERY cool. I have the ability to do this also but have never thought about advertising this skill.

I can relate to the comment on how many idiots there are out there who have 0 clue on how to set up their hitch for a comfortable, safe tow.
 

jessie_sanders

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Not really passive but in my extremely limited free time I fix air conditioners, heat pumps, furnaces, air handlers, and roof top units. I'm expensive. And I only work for cash.

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93Cobra#2771

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VERY cool. I have the ability to do this also but have never thought about advertising this skill.

I can relate to the comment on how many idiots there are out there who have 0 clue on how to set up their hitch for a comfortable, safe tow.
Just looking at the campers being towed down the road, I'd say 1/3 of them don't have the hitch set up correctly. I'd also say more than half of the half ton trucks are well over most of their ratings. Not that they are going to fall apart because of it, but some have no business pulling what they are pulling.
 

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