JL Shaker 1000

[TheVikingRL]

Being an audiophile of sorts was really disappointed in the stock Shaker 1000 setup. Not sure how that one passed quality control. Since I bought the car with the 1000 option figured I would just upgrade it and keep a stock/stealth look. Been a JL Audio fan for a while now so used their XD600/1 amp, W3v3-4 10" drivers, HD-RLC remote level control and XD-PCS4-1B amp install kit.

The XD amps are really compact which is great since they are one of the few which will actually fit in place of the factory sub amp setup. The W3's are designed to operate in a compact enclosure (0.625 cu. ft) which is good with the stock box. Ran the 4 guage wire through factory firewall grommet in the unused nipple. The wire fits like it was made for it, even had to use a little WD40 to pull it through. Unfortunately Ford (for some unknown reason) uses a 5v lead so I had to tap F43 in the smart junction box for a 12v signal. Adapted the factory line level signals to some RCA leads and was ready to go. I installed the remote level control on the radio bezel in the only possible spot I could find (there is just enough room). The Shaker 500 door sub amps have some crazy phasing so kept the crossover low (80htz) to help avoid cancellation.

All in all it's a huge improvement over stock and at least I can tailor the sub level to the particular music. Don't understand why Ford didn't include a sub level control in the stock head unit:shrug:. If I didn't already have the Shaker 1000 setup would have just purchased the JL Stealthbox instead of the two drivers but this makes a decent alternative. Next project is to figure out the best plan for door sub/amp replacement.

Firewall grommet/wiring:

Amp mounting vs stock:

Subs mounted:

Remote level control installed:

 

[kingnut]

absolutely BADASS!!! i like how you mounted the sub woofer knob right into the bezel. ive been saying for years for aftermarket head units to have a sub woofer control on the faceplate. it would save time and space.

 

[scott_0]

well done

 

[mikestoyz]

Excellent. I have the base system and adding a sub and adjusting so the bass at 0 on the head unit is right for most music and can be adjusted to bring the sub up or down works well.

Added a ton of definition to the stock system. Yes, that nipple is so perfect for that wire, and the wire snakes under the panels so nice and easy for install.

Unfortunately my voltmeter broke and I had to randomly select fuses to try to get a 12v source for acc/on

 

[cidsamuth]

Excellent. I have the base system and adding a sub and adjusting so the bass at 0 on the head unit is right for most music and can be adjusted to bring the sub up or down works well.

I've done that in the past with pre-amplified bass tubes. If you set the gain so that the sub is hitting hard when the bass control on the head unit is in the middle, this allows you to adjust without putting a seperate knob in like the OP did (though his looks good). Most of the time, you would have the bass on the head below the middle range, so you know you're not overworking the front four speakers with bass when you are feeling froggy and want to turn up the sub.

Of course, having the seperate knob like the OP does give you better control, as you can independently adjust bass on the sub versus the front 4 speakers.

 

[kingnut]

viking can you update this thread with your door speaker install and anything else you have done. you have an absolutely clean setup. i would love to hear it in person.

 

[FIVEHOE]

very nice! I personally have 3X 10w3's in a ported box in my tahoe powered by an HD 750/1 and it hits HARD. Gotta love JL, hits all the highs mids and lows and sounds amazing.

get any rattling so far? considering dyno matting the car?

 

[TheVikingRL]

Thanks Kingnut, will post some additional install pics soon.

I don't typically crank the bass to the point where rattling is a serious problem. I do have Dynomat/Ensolite in the doors & inner panels but not in trunk. I've use the JL amps and speakers for a while now. For the money I think they make a lot of decent products.

Next project is to RTA the various line/speaker outputs and figure out what the factory HU is using for crossover points, if anything much.

 

[Djstorm100]

Could someone that had the 500 add this amp and setup to upgrade to 1000? I would like a little more bass.

 

[TheVikingRL]

Again, if you don't already have a Shaker 1000 setup I would just add in an aftermarket sub box. JL makes a very nice option (Stealthbox) which is well integrated but keep in mind you're north of 1k after adding in the box/amp/wiring etc.
Car Audio - Stealthbox® - Ford - Mustang

Other likely options are a Kicker/Shelby self amplified box, universal trunk box, or maybe a set of small subs in the deck in place of the stock speakers. And yes, it's relatively easy to tie any of this into the stock 500 system.

 

[CharlieR]

Again, if you don't already have a Shaker 1000 setup I would just add in an aftermarket sub box. JL makes a very nice option (Stealthbox) which is well integrated but keep in mind you're north of 1k after adding in the box/amp/wiring etc.
Car Audio - Stealthbox® - Ford - Mustang

Other likely options are a Kicker/Shelby self amplified box, universal trunk box, or maybe a set of small subs in the deck in place of the stock speakers. And yes, it's relatively easy to tie any of this into the stock 500 system.

I like the way you added the JL 10's/amp into the Shaker system.
JL Stealthbox for 05-09 in My '11.

I used the "older" box due to(at the time) the '10-^ didn't offer the W6 woofer.
Under the Stock carpet:

 

[Snake40]

Looks good. Thanks for the ideas