2013 GT500 Failed Clutch Thread

mullens

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Due the increasing number of failed clutches on the 2013, I started this thread. It will serve as both information sharing and documentation of this issue.

Just saying it "broke" would not be helpful.

What is the definition of broke?
• Smoke or smell?
• Dead in the water, clutch won't engage?
• Slipping, high rpm low speed for selected gear?
• Noisy?
• Clutch won't disengage?
• Clutch drags, difficult to get into gear/gear grinding?
• Hard pedal?
• Soft pedal?
• Pedal won't return all the way?
• Chunks of metal missing from bell housing?
• A detailed description of the failure would be very informative.
• Was the car up to temperature?
• What were you doing at the time of the failure? Try to word it like it happened on the road and you weren't actually at the track kicking butt on a ZL1.
• How did it feel and sound at the time of failure?
• Were there any previous signs of possible failure? Smoke, odor, slipping, difficulty getting into gear, grinding or anything else.
• If you have pictures of the broken parts, please post them.
• The build date of the car would be helpful if this turns out to be a bad batch problem.
• Any other pertinent information that would clarify the situation would also be very helpful.

If everyone with a failed clutch contributes, maybe we get get a handle on what we're dealing with.
 
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rwboring

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Everyone might want to keep in mind if you are in the middle of trying to get a problem resolved with Ford it might not be wise to post here (or just watch what you post). Just my $.02
 

bpmurr

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Everyone might want to keep in mind if you are in the middle of trying to get a problem resolved with Ford it might not be wise to post here (or just watch what you post). Just my $.02

Amen, unless you want SVT to be reading your posts on this forum and others back to you. The funny thing is they told me my 2010 GT500 with a pulley swap and tune was too much power for the same OEM clutch. Yet 2013 owners running more power stock and its suppose to hold up?
 

MrUnsubtleNinja

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Amen, unless you want SVT to be reading your posts on this forum and others back to you. The funny thing is they told me my 2010 GT500 with a pulley swap and tune was too much power for the same OEM clutch. Yet 2013 owners running more power stock and its suppose to hold up?

I can't imagine adding 10mm to the clutch (250mm [2012] 260mm [2013]) really did all that much to improve the durability...
 

mullens

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Everyone might want to keep in mind if you are in the middle of trying to get a problem resolved with Ford it might not be wise to post here (or just watch what you post). Just my $.02

Listing mods may come back and bite you, but don't we list our mods in our signatures anyway? It would be helpful to know if the car was stock when the clutch blew.
 
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cbrmuscle

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As well... Included should be an honest assessment of the 100 and 1,000 mile break-in recommended by Ford. I sincerely doubt anyone who buys this car actually follows that.
Just my $0.02
 

Shaker1

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I can't imagine adding 10mm to the clutch (250mm [2012] 260mm [2013]) really did all that much to improve the durability...

Other than going to 260mm, were there any other substantial changes?
These clutches are fully organic compound? No ceramic or metallic?

I am still a fan of the cera-metallic that came in my 2008. Once I got it broken in, it drives like a dream (25K miles now). Of course, it took 10,000 miles to break it in! :lol1:
 

MrUnsubtleNinja

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Other than going to 260mm, were there any other substantial changes?
These clutches are fully organic compound? No ceramic or metallic?

I am still a fan of the cera-metallic that came in my 2008. Once I got it broken in, it drives like a dream (25K miles now). Of course, it took 10,000 miles to break it in! :lol1:

As far as I know, and I even asked the Ford Rep I spoke to, it's fully organic but he said he would check with SVT on that.

Otherwise my sisters 2012 GT500 with SVTPP feels much nicer for clutch engagement. Hers engages at about half travel. The 2013 engages at almost full disengagement of the clutch pedal. When your foot is almost all the way up off the floor the clutch will start grabbing. It's very awkward coming from other manuals.
 

Snoopy49

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What was changed from the 2012 to the 2013 besides the clutch diameter?
The pedal pressure increased and the clutch engagement point changed. Is it the same manufacturer?
Is the throwout bearing, master cylinder or plumbing different?
Could it be one of the other components in the system causing the clutch failures?
Possibly the throwout bearing not retracting fast or far enough to ensure complete disengagement, which would cause the clutch to slip?
To small of a hydraulic line from the master cylinder to the throwout bearing?
Improperly sized master cylinder or throwout bearing actuator?
Or it could just be a bad batch of clutch parts.
What exactly is failing, one or both of the clutch disks, the pressure plate, separator plate or something else? Is it catastrophic failure or excessive wear? This is where pictures of the damaged parts would be helpful.
 
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03Cobra05GT

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As well... Included should be an honest assessment of the 100 and 1,000 mile break-in recommended by Ford. I sincerely doubt anyone who buys this car actually follows that.
Just my $0.02

Actually, there are quite a number of guys on here that said they followed it, myself included.

See, I don't know, some guys on here, say "I didn't buy a $60k+ car to baby it, blah blah blah" but I look at that completely different. The more expensive a car, I would think the more you would take care of it. Do I plan on babying mine the WHOLE time? HELL NO.

In fact, after hitting 1,000 on mine, the next 1,200 miles I now have on mine, have been pretty rough driving. But I appreciate the fact that anything new, with friction parts needs to be broken in. I'd rather play it safe and show a little restraint for 1,000 miles than have issues simply because I couldn't wait to go ripping in the thing.

I hope everyone who is having issues with the clutch gets it resolved. It sucks to be in that situation, but I just can't help but to stress enough that $60k car or $200k car, if a break in is recommended, than it's for a reason. Why would you completely ignore it?

Does being an expensive car magically mean the mechanics of how friction parts work no longer applies to said car?
 
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Devious_Snake

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Actually, there are quite a number of guys on here that said they followed it, myself included.

See, I don't know, some guys on here, say "I didn't buy a $60k+ car to baby it, blah blah blah" but I look at that completely different. The more expensive a car, I would think the more you would take care of it. Do I plan on babying mine the WHOLE time? HELL NO.

In fact, after hitting 1,000 on mine, the next 1,200 miles I now have on mine, have been pretty rough driving. But I appreciate the fact that anything new, with friction parts needs to be broken in. I'd rather play it safe and show a little restraint for 1,000 miles than have issues simply because I couldn't wait to go ripping in the thing.

I hope everyone who is having issues with the clutch gets it resolved. It sucks to be in that situation, but I just can't help but to stress enough that $60k car or $200k car, if a break in is recommended, than it's for a reason. Why would you completely ignore it?

Does being an expensive car magically mean the mechanics of how friction parts work no longer applies to said car?


x100
 

cbrmuscle

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I agree with you 03Cobra05GT. Your last line sums it up perfectly.

Now, I am not saying no one will follow the recommended or extended break-in period. Hell, I do not blame them. How do you show restraint in this monster of a car for what must feel like an eternity? But, if you want longevity... It has to be done.

I hope that anyone with issues does have them warrantied by Ford... But you can be sure they are going to take their time the second time around. If there is an actual built-in flaw then I have nothing but compassion for these guys. I went through the whole clutch TSB debacle with my current 500 and it sucked. Ford was great about it but it made me lose a bit of faith in the car.
 

gkviper192

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As well... Included should be an honest assessment of the 100 and 1,000 mile break-in recommended by Ford. I sincerely doubt anyone who buys this car actually follows that.
Just my $0.02


i babied my '12 gt500 until for 1,000 miles.... lots of hard driving and power shifting after that.
 

Franz

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Actually, there are quite a number of guys on here that said they followed it, myself included.

See, I don't know, some guys on here, say "I didn't buy a $60k+ car to baby it, blah blah blah" but I look at that completely different. The more expensive a car, I would think the more you would take care of it. Do I plan on babying mine the WHOLE time? HELL NO.

In fact, after hitting 1,000 on mine, the next 1,200 miles I now have on mine, have been pretty rough driving. But I appreciate the fact that anything new, with friction parts needs to be broken in. I'd rather play it safe and show a little restraint for 1,000 miles than have issues simply because I couldn't wait to go ripping in the thing.

I hope everyone who is having issues with the clutch gets it resolved. It sucks to be in that situation, but I just can't help but to stress enough that $60k car or $200k car, if a break in is recommended, than it's for a reason. Why would you completely ignore it?

Does being an expensive car magically mean the mechanics of how friction parts work no longer applies to said car?

+1

My car has only 400 miles and continues to be broken in properly, especially after reading all the crap on here about clutch problems. WOT to redline is not even an option for me until after the first 1K miles and the initial oil service has been completed. I'll even wait a little longer than 1K miles before doing any extended high-speed driving at constant RPMs.
 

93 347 Cobra

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I'm not sure how many of you have had experience purchasing aftermarket clutches before but when I replaced the clutch in my '93 with a CF Dual Friction there was a card inside that had a warning that the car should not be given full throttle until a 500 mile break-in period had elapsed and that the rpm's should be varied during that time and not left at one cruising speed. The card stated that failure to do so would result in premature clutch failure.

So don't go beating on your cars until you've broken everything in! If you want it to last that is...
 

COBRA MAN OF UT

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Other people who have beat the hell out of the car from the time they took delivery should be allowed to post in here to since there are plenty a those on the forum........ Its a bad batch of parts simple as that.
 

0mineralgrey3

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I haven't had really any clutch issues and i'm one of few people with one that beats the crap out of it every weekend. I still really don't see people with videos racing their cars either.
 

nix5o

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Those that have bad clutches need to post their build date. I hope my clutch is in the same batch as 0mineralgrey3's cause his is doing good...lol.
 

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