How much can you spray though a eaton?

blk00gtvert

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putting together a ported eaton spray car and i have a few questions. it is a built 03 cobra motor which will have a ported eaton on it. i will be setting up a stand alone fuel system that will spray c16 with the nitrous kit. i would like to run two stage but i am curious. how much nitrous can you spray thought a eaton? could i spray two 150 kits? or am i asking for a backfire? i might fog it as well but not sure on that yet.

what is the most you guys have heard of somone spraying through a eaton?
 

lucheski

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Most guys just run 100 or 150. I wanted to run a 200 wet shot my tuner talked me out of it he said after 150 or 175 the fuel starts to stick to the walls of the intake instead of being ingested into the motor and could cause a backfire. For a big shot/dedicated N20 car I would plumb in a direct port setup
 

sprsonic

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and if you are going to spray through the supercharger you should only use a dry kit. the fuel sprayed through the wet side of the nozzle will eventually wear away the teflon coating of the eaton's rotors. had that happen on my 99 lightning. and i have a dry 100 shot on my car now. gobs of torque
 

ClubVenom1

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"and if you are going to spray through the supercharger you should only use a dry kit. the fuel sprayed through the wet side of the nozzle will eventually wear away the teflon coating of the eaton's rotors."

I don't see how gasoline will eat away the teflon coating on the rotors in an eaton. If that was true then PTFE (teflon fuel line) would breakdown causing leaking gas lines.....

I think the teflon wear is due to normal rotor deflection (due to overspinning it/ smaller pulley) and heat (expansion of the lobes and case) not the fuel being sprayed into it on rare now and then runs.

To the OP the dual stage shot is good but I've only seen it on a 75/125 (200 hp total)shot thru the eaton on a built block.

Running twin 150's (300 hp total shot) is asking for track only runs (if you get the fuel puddling/sticking issue cured) cause you won't get traction with that kind of torque on the street with Drag Radials. That's a lot of cylinder pressure too. Hope your heads stay on the block.
 

blk00gtvert

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"and if you are going to spray through the supercharger you should only use a dry kit. the fuel sprayed through the wet side of the nozzle will eventually wear away the teflon coating of the eaton's rotors."

I don't see how gasoline will eat away the teflon coating on the rotors in an eaton. If that was true then PTFE (teflon fuel line) would breakdown causing leaking gas lines.....

I think the teflon wear is due to normal rotor deflection (due to overspinning it/ smaller pulley) and heat (expansion of the lobes and case) not the fuel being sprayed into it on rare now and then runs.

To the OP the dual stage shot is good but I've only seen it on a 75/125 (200 hp total)shot thru the eaton on a built block.

Running twin 150's (300 hp total shot) is asking for track only runs (if you get the fuel puddling/sticking issue cured) cause you won't get traction with that kind of torque on the street with Drag Radials. That's a lot of cylinder pressure too. Hope your heads stay on the block.



thank you for the insite.... it will be a track only car. with a auto.
basicly budget building the car. gutted 98 GT. auto. forged block, 03 setup and LOTS of spray. want to leave on blower, spray one kit in second an the other in third is my plan....
 

Ironhand

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Spray Propane with the Nitrous.

Pros:
It wont require you to build, plumb, and wire a separate fuel cell for the C16.
Its a liquid that turns into a gas once it hits the atmosphere so stripping rotors wont be a problem.
Its actually higher octane (approx 120) compared to the C16.
The Propane and Nitrous molecules actually join together and effectively "drag" each other down into the cylinders.
Propane operates around the same pressure as most fuel systems so the fuel noid of the kit can be reused.
Its alot cheaper to use then C16.


Cons:
Getting the propane setup just right is a pain. It has a different A/F ratio then gas and needs to be adjusted accordingly.
You will most likely have to have the lines made to work with propane fittings. Any hydraulic line shop should be able to rig one up for you.
Bottle pressure will be a pain and a typical heating blanket has issues adjusting low enough to maintain bottle pressure. Gas torch and a pressure gauge fixes that but is a dangerous practice.
 
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RideThePONY

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Not sure if that is sarcasm but Diesels have been doing it for years. Ive seen diesels spray over a 200 shot on propane but only a 50 shot of nitrous.

Nope, serious. Never really kept up on diesels honestly. I know some, but not much.
 

ClubVenom1

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Never heard of fuel acting like a sandblaster before???? Last I heard it was NON abrasive but a good cleaner. Maybe when its at high velocity in the eaton it does something to the teflon then?

Direct port would be the way to go if I were doing your project, safer to tune on the twin 150 shot.

Propane is doable like Ironhand said but controlling the propane bottle pressure is very difficult (fluctuates too much), most folks just give up and go back to good ol fossil fuels, reliable psi to control.
 

kevinatfms

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i had a lightning for a while and with a steggy port with stripped rotors(used aircraft cleaner) i ran a 150 and up to a 175 shot on top of the ported blower with zero issues.
i know its apples to oranges on the motor but the blower itself is the same size and rotor design. i stayed at the 150 mark for a while and stepped it up to the 175 twice just to see what it would do, my setup was not optimal and just blew the 305 DR's away.
 

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