Bad timing chain tensioner? Video inside

[Silverboost]

I have been having some noise coming from the motor when fully warmed up for the last 3 years and when i removed the valve covers today the driver side timi g chain was loose. The car has made an off beat tapping sound at idle and went away as soon as you got it above 1100 rpms or so. Should the chain be loose like such in the video? Is it fair to say that is where i have been getting my noise from?


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Video of the sound it was making...

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[Jimmysidecarr]

You may have found it, I was expecting to hear the tick but that is definitely not the tick.


BUMP

 

[Quick Strike]

I would see if the tensioner increases the tension when you pressurize the oil system with a garden sprayer at the oil pressure sensor location. The tensioners are kept tight with oil pressure when the engine is running. The oil drains back when not running, but some tension remains on the chains from the spring inside the tensioner until it starts and is pressurized.

 

[Silverboost]

I have gotten almost everything off the front of the motor. So far removing the whipple inlet, valvr covers, brake booster, and all the other crap off the front of the motor hasnt been bad. Once i get that cover off the front i will be able to see how much slop is in there.

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

I have gotten almost everything off the front of the motor. So far removing the whipple inlet, valvr covers, brake booster, and all the other crap off the front of the motor hasnt been bad. Once i get that cover off the front i will be able to see how much slop is in there.

Check for a break in the gasket of the tensioner, between it and where it bolts on, that will allow oil pressure to bleed out and not give full pressure to the tensioner.

 

[Silverboost]

Thing is the car only makes the tapping noise when the car is at full operating temp which i would assume when the oil is at its thinnest.

 

[quickhorse]

Thing is the car only makes the tapping noise when the car is at full operating temp which i would assume when the oil is at its thinnest.

Exactly . . . thinner = less pressure . . . getting into the nooks and crannies and lubricating is one thing but creating max pressure is usually when the oil is coldest. Viscosity is greater . . .

 

[Silverboost]

So before I took off for work today I decided to turn the engine over by hand a few times before I drained the oil and popped the cover off. The drivers side chain got looser as I turned the motor over and then it would get tighter. At the same time the passenger side got looser as the drivers was tightening. If I kept turning the motor you would hear the pressure come off the timing chain tensioners with what sounded like a pop, then they would get loose. I guess I will be able to tell more on what's going on when I get that cover off.

I suppose at this point I need to decide with what I am getting powdered covered wrinkle black as well since it is dismantled.

 

[Silverboost]

bump

 

[Modular Racing]

This is common for the plastic tensioner that ford used, best thing to do is replace bith with the upgraded Steel tensioners, they have a safety rachet built in that prevent the chain from going slack, even in the event of oil pressure loss, you can get them here: Products » Modular Engine Components » FORD » PN#444877 UPGRADED Primary chain tensioners (left and Right)

MMR

 

[speeddemon2000]

FYI this is what Sean Hyland had to say about the tensioners in his book Mustang Builders Guide.

"The OEM timing components on the Cobra/Mach 1 have proven to be quite robust, even at 9,000 rpm, but a couple of things need to be noted. The chain tensioners used from 1996 until 2001 had a ratchet mechanism built in to self-adjust the tensioner for wear. When drag raced on sticky tires, the tensioners would over ratchet, cuasing premature front cam-journal wear. We have modified the tensioners to eliminate the ratchet mecahnism for drag racing, but kept it for street, open-track, or road racing. Since 2003, the factory has seen fit to update the tensioners and they have also eliminated the rachet mecahnism. They also changed the tensioner material from the original cast iron to a nylon-type material. We use the newer chain tensioner in street and drag cars, but we still use the old cast tensioners with the ratchet mechanism for all road-race and open track engines."

 

[Modular Racing]

FYI this is what Sean Hyland had to say about the tensioners in his book Mustang Builders Guide.

"The OEM timing components on the Cobra/Mach 1 have proven to be quite robust, even at 9,000 rpm, but a couple of things need to be noted. The chain tensioners used from 1996 until 2001 had a ratchet mechanism built in to self-adjust the tensioner for wear. When drag raced on sticky tires, the tensioners would over ratchet, cuasing premature front cam-journal wear. We have modified the tensioners to eliminate the ratchet mecahnism for drag racing, but kept it for street, open-track, or road racing. Since 2003, the factory has seen fit to update the tensioners and they have also eliminated the rachet mecahnism. They also changed the tensioner material from the original cast iron to a nylon-type material. We use the newer chain tensioner in street and drag cars, but we still use the old cast tensioners with the ratchet mechanism for all road-race and open track engines."

Also as a FYI Ford Racing no longer uses the plastic tensioner in their timing kits also, they all include the upgraded Steel tensioner as shown above in our post. MMR has never seen the "over ratchet" condition mentioned in the SHM book, but as many know, many of the SHM "findings" were incorrect. Not a bad book for how old it is but by no means the Modular Bible.

MMR

 

[derockgt]

man my car does this once and awhile too... somtimes its there somtimes its not

 

[speeddemon2000]

Also as a FYI Ford Racing no longer uses the plastic tensioner in their timing kits also, they all include the upgraded Steel tensioner as shown above in our post. MMR has never seen the "over ratchet" condition mentioned in the SHM book, but as many know, many of the SHM "findings" were incorrect. Not a bad book for how old it is but by no means the Modular Bible.

MMR

Thanks for the response. Good info!

 

[Modular Racing]

Our pleasure!

 

[03 DSG Snake]

Also as a FYI Ford Racing no longer uses the plastic tensioner in their timing kits also, they all include the upgraded Steel tensioner as shown above in our post. MMR has never seen the "over ratchet" condition mentioned in the SHM book, but as many know, many of the SHM "findings" were incorrect. Not a bad book for how old it is but by no means the Modular Bible.

MMR

I think I'm having a similar issue as the OP. Any negative effects long term?

 

[beeradd]

Keep us posted.

I have been concerned about this issue myself, happened a few months ago after a long trip. Only at idle. Now it does not do it anymore?

 

[03 DSG Snake]

Updates?

 

[theunseenclass]

I know this is kind of old but any update on it? I have that same sound and I pulled the motor and got the heads and valveguides done and of course its still there lol.sounds like a metal valvetrain noise but have all new components.the tensioners would be a nice easy fix if that was the problem.

 

[svtmemo]

I have the exact same sound coming from the driver's side head. I am going to pull the valve covers off later on this week. After spending a short time trying to diagnose the noise i thought it could be maybe a lash adjuster, but now after viewing this thread im not sure anymore. The only way to find out is to open her up see whats under there. It's weird though because there is no noise whatsoever on start up, only at full operating temperature and at idle so idk, im just going to have to see..