Hey guys ok i got a knock when any load is put on car coming from the the top sounds like hitting the passenger valve cover, Pulled plugs were fine, doing a compression test in the morning. Took SC belt off still occur. It might be a PS pump or AC pump knocking not how common it is? But if i rev it and hold it sound goes away. I am leaning towards rockers or some part of valve train gone. Just hope its something little. Any opinions?
Head knock tick.
- Thread starter Quagmire
- Start date
Ya compression test will show all. if thats the case Either Reman, mmr, or just rebuild? if its just one piston i probably just do bore rebuild unless it is not cost effective, and just buy reman for 4k or mmr for 3k
Can you hear it w/ hood up at idle? You sure it's passenger's side? How many miles on the car? Can we assume you have you read all the threads about the head tick with these cars?
No not at idle at all with the hood up. Car has 24k, yes have been through the threads with ticks and knocks, there are like 1200 of them. Started after a short drive, maybe 5 miles and turning into parking lot is when i noticed it. Drove it close to 150 miles today all on highway didn't do any high speed pulls. Oil pressure and A/f all looked fine. I think next step is to look at compression and go from there,
Update compression test turned out fine most of the cylinders above 160 some in the 170s this is when engine is cold. Fuel system was disabled. Might be a pulley knock (crosses fingers) But does rod bearings show up on a compression test?
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No, a rod bearing will not show up in a leakdown/compression test.
Well i think next test is to pulley the rear belt off and give it a start make sure it is not the water pump or idler pulleys,If it still makes the noise i think pulling the engine is next step tell me if i am wrong?
Stethoscope to pinpoint the noise.
don't pull the motor yet, pull valve covers and oil pain first.
Before you tear down.
Pull off one coil wire at a time on the bank with the noise. This simply removes the power from the power stroke one cylinder at a time.
Rev to known knock RPM and listen each time.
When the knock goes away with the coil wire off, that is the hurt cylinder.
Drain and save about 1 quart of the old oil.(for possible oil analysis later on)
Remove, drain, cut open and inspect oil filter.(post pics)
Pull off one coil wire at a time on the bank with the noise. This simply removes the power from the power stroke one cylinder at a time.
Rev to known knock RPM and listen each time.
When the knock goes away with the coil wire off, that is the hurt cylinder.
Drain and save about 1 quart of the old oil.(for possible oil analysis later on)
Remove, drain, cut open and inspect oil filter.(post pics)
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Excellent idea!
Hey guys update. I got valve covers off and don't see anything wrong in the valve train. I am kinda stumped. Compression/leak down check is good, can it still be a melted piston? Getting borescope here tuesday, so i really don't know now. I really want to figure it out before i pull engine.
Only idea i can think of maybe one of the tappets are ****ed but, is there anyway to tell or gotta pull them and soak in oil and see which ones suck?
Only idea i can think of maybe one of the tappets are ****ed but, is there anyway to tell or gotta pull them and soak in oil and see which ones suck?
i have the same type of tapping noise but its throughout the rpm band. I pulled every coil, and it still was there. I ended up pulling the motor and having the heads done. New lash adjusters,rockers,valve guides and a valve job was done. I had 190 compression across the board and it still makes the noise :fm: even after all that. Im wondering if its a lifter bore? check those with the VC off since thats about the only thing i havnt tried lol.
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