car died ! no fuel?? wat else to look for????

[rudycobra]

ok so i have been driving the car the last few days with new posi port and bap and been running great besides the hesitation (pprv) but yesterday i installed a raptor shift light and mgw orange handle shifter. decided to go make a practice pass and when shifted to 4th the car hit 2nd. tires screeched a sec then allready had clutch pushed in. then noticed car wouldnot idle . so i stopped popped hood and everything looks fine. started car and no idle well i tried driving it a lil anyway and it died completely. my tuner put in a frps disc and said i would never blolw it. he also said get a new frps sensor, so i thought maybe its the sensor? i got gf to come pick meup and went get one of my friends cobra 10 mins away and tried it but still no fuel?? i push the shraeder valve aand theres no fuel pressure. I chkd fuses , main one and the one in trunk and big one with wire upgrade and everything looks good. Wat to check now? hopefull its just somethin minor cause i just spent all my extra money to gert it to where it is. Also thought that car could not go from 4 to 2nd ??? also orange handle will b coming of for diff one . Any help please. oh and thankfully my neighbors are pretty good friends and own a wrecker company and came pick me up .

 

[98 Saleen Cobra]

Sounds like you blew the FRPS disk.. I don't understand how your tuner could say it'll never blow again lol..

 

[rudycobra]

It's a special one he uses that he gets made out of aluminum , it still looks fine to me

 

[cobracide]

Do you smell gas in the oil? That would be a major FRPS failure clue. Make sure your pumps are running. You should hear them prime when you turn the key.

 

[Ironhand]

Sounds like a FRPS.

To check the FRPS, Leave it plugged in and try to start car, if it does not start or wont idle correctly then unplug the FRPS. If the car does start with it unplugged or the vacuum lines and/or oil dipstick smell like fuel then it is the FRPS. The sensor may be fine but the diaphragm is what breaks.

Correction: Replace FRPS, Change oil, and allow vacuum lines to air out.

Also, Cycle the key 3 times off and on on initial startup to allow fuel pressure to build back in the lines.

 

[rudycobra]

Pull dip stick and really hard to say for sure but almost wanting to say I do smell a Lil gas on it . Wen turn key on it sounds like pumps kick on . U hear them for bout 2 secs then quit . I changed frps with buddies of his runnin car and still nothing

 

[Ironhand]

Double check the BAP installation. Check that you have a 30amp inline fuse. You could try to turn the BAP all the way down and see if that would help or not.

You also reset the switch in the truck the correct way right? Double check that as well.

 

[rudycobra]

 

[rudycobra]

Switch does not need b reset it's already pushed in . Fuses test fine , plugged or not plugged still no start and appears still no fuel pressure .

 

[rudycobra]

How else can tell if pumps are Workin ? Deff hear them primeup wen first turn key but go push shrader valve and still no fuel press in rail

 

[330mach1]

my thought would be either line came off the fuel pump inside the tank, or clogged fuel filter?

 

[rudycobra]

I'm thinking something like line in tank too cause just changed filter last week . Wat is the Lil silver in lune piece on pass side, regulator ?? Would that b something .

 

[Black306]

Just to clarify, you still have the PPRV, correct? Did you do anything to the pumps themselves?

If you still have the PPRV in place and the pumps are priming, then a squirt of fuel should come out of the shrader valve. Since it's not, I'm lead to believe you have an internal tank leak (popped off a nipple or just popped hose) or you have a dead pump(s). It's possible you experienced a fuel pressure spike during the downshift which was 'the straw that broke the camel's back' so to speak.

If you don't have the PPRV in place, it won't squirt unless someone is holding the valve open as you prime the pumps.


Did you try pulling codes?

 

[rudycobra]

Pprv still there , been debating on whether or not to delete it cause it just started giving me Lil trouble since bap install. Gonna try pull codes now but no chk engine light so didnt think any would show up . Looks like I'll have to drop tank to c so next question is do I delete pprv while in there ? Tuner suggested not to

 

[rudycobra]

Po193 fuel rail prs s hi cir hi in

P1233. Fpdm disabled/ offline

 

[Ironhand]

You need the FPDM hooked up. Was the BAP hooked up pre FPDM with the FPDM still plugged in as well?

Check the connector to the FPDM to see if it popped off maybe.

 

[rudycobra]

Yes it is pre fpdm. I'll check the plug when I get home but don't think it could have popped off,

 

[rudycobra]

If I unhook fuel filter and turn on key I should get fuel flow right ? Think I'm gonna try that tmrw before dropping tank .

 

[Black Cobra]

I would think you should get fuel; alot of fuel. There isn't alot of extra hose right there; so not sure how you are going to direct the fuel. Small length of water hose slid over the fuel hose would probably be enough to direct the fuel down into a bucket.

It takes the 3/8 fuel line tool.

 

[Black306]

Po193 fuel rail prs s hi cir hi in

P1233. Fpdm disabled/ offline

The P1233 code will show up for a few reasons. Either power to the FPDM is disrupted (ie blown fuse, disconnected power line, bad BAP, etc), return signal path is broken (ie broken wire, bad pins), or the FPDM is bad.

I've had an FPDM fail where it did not return a signal back to the ECU and caused a P1233 code, but still ran the pumps and the engine still ran fine. Plus, an FPDM failure in general is pretty rare. So I don't believe you have a bad FPDM.

Did you, at any point, turn the key to the 'on' position with the FPDM or fuse to power the FPDM disconnected? That will pop a P1233 code and stay there until you clear it or run through enough cycles (~30).