Question is ALWAYS popping up.......Instructions courtesy of RWTD. Pictures courtesy of Red Poison!
INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS - 60 LB INJECTORS
1: Disconnect negative battery cable (just for safety).
2: Unplug all vacuum lines on the air inlet tubing and plenum.
3: Remove your air inlet tubing up to the throttle body.
4: Remove the 4 nuts that hold the plenum on to the blower casing (the bottom back one can sometimes be a lil challenging without the right extensions/wobblers).
5: Starting with the passenger side, relieve any fuel pressure in the lines by unscrewing the schrader valve's cap and pushing a small screwdriver down on the center stob. It is suggested to use shop rags/paper towels to soak up excess fuel that will obviously spill out (just wrap them around the schrader valve before depressing the center stob).
6: Next, remove all the injector harnesses.
7: Now undo the 2 nuts that hold the fuel rail onto the intake housing (the nuts may already be seized to the studs, so do not be alarmed if the nuts/studs all come out together as one).
8: Take and slowly lift up on the fuel rail by applying a very small rocking motion from the front side of the rail with your right hand and the back side of the rail with your left hand. The rail and injectors should all come out easily with *very* minimal force. Do not let this scare you. You can't screw anything up here, nor honestly on any of this R&R.
9: Replace the 4 passenger side injectors with the 4 new 60's and be sure to use your old brass looking metal clips on the new injectors. They come off actually very easy. It is important that you dip your finger in motor oil to coat around ALL the o-rings on the injectors to ensure they slide in without force onto the rails and intake. Do not use excess oil as it is not needed.
10: Install your new adapter harnesses. If you purchased the adapter harnesses from me (RWTD), you'll notice we have the best in the business (stout connectors and heat shrinked tubing around the exposed extension wires), as well as the best in pricing on them (shameless plug, but true, lol). You'll also notice that you most likely will never get the ends that go to the factory harnesses clipped by just pushing on them with your fingers. They are suppose to be tight (this is done purposely for a great seal), so the trick here is to push them as far as you can with your fingers, and then use a small flathead screwdriver to life "UP" on the release clip. You will hear a "CLICK" when you do this. This is VERY important to make sure you have them locked in. I've seen some people not do this and then they will have codes come up later on from injectors not firing because the harnesses backed out. I've seen other people put electrical tape around them trying to keep them held in. This can all be avoidable if you follow this step from me properly, and then use common sense on how to get them to lock in.
11: Reinstall injectors and rails by ensuring everything is lined up and going in straight. Apply steady pressure EVENLY down onto the injector rail to ensure they all go in equally and at the same time.
12: Button back up your passenger side in reverse order of removal, including reinstalling your cold air intake.
13: Now for the driver side. This side can bit slightly challenging if you let it intimidate you. It's NOT any harder, trust me. You will notice the metal vacuum line assembly is in your way. All you have to do is unplug the majority of the small vacuum hoses from it, then unbolt the metal vacuum line assembly from the blower bracketry and pull it back out of the way (there are 2 bolts that hold it into place, plus 1 nut on the backside of the EGR; you do NOT have to remove this EGR nut). Yes, this will bend it slightly doing this, but it bends right back in place when you reinstall it, so do NOT be concerned doing this. Otherwise you can also remove the nut on the backside of the EGR valve that holds the backside of the bracketry on (you'll regret trying to do this in a tight cramped space), and then work it out of the way from there.
14: Now take and follow steps 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12 again for R&R on the driver side.
15: Double check everywhere for installation misses, such as vacuum hoses, nuts/bolts, etc.
16: Hook up your negative battery cable.
17: Turn the key from OFF/ON at least 5 to 10 times to build pressure back in the lines, giving at least a 3 seconds pause between each cycle, so as to allow the pump to prime.
18: Get out and check for ANY fuel leaks around the injectors. If there isn't any fuel previously spilled heavily from the R&R then you would most likely be able to notice any heavy gas smells if you had a leak, but not necessarily. Do not allow this step to cause you to overanalyze and make you become overly concerned. Just using common sense here. If you do not see any leaks then you do not have any.
19: Crank the vehicle and check again for leaks.
IMPORTANT: MAKE SURE YOU HAVE YOUR NEW CUSTOM TUNE CALIBRATED FOR YOUR 60# INJECTORS INSTALLED BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO CRANK AND DRIVE YOUR VEHICLE. DO NOT CRANK OR DRIVE YOUR VEHICLE WITHOUT IT. YOUR VEHICLE WILL NOT RUN CORRECTLY WITHOUT A TUNE DESIGNED FOR THE 60# INJECTORS!!!
20: Shut your hood (sorry, had to make it to 20 steps, lol). Now go have some fun!
INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS - 60 LB INJECTORS
1: Disconnect negative battery cable (just for safety).
2: Unplug all vacuum lines on the air inlet tubing and plenum.
3: Remove your air inlet tubing up to the throttle body.
4: Remove the 4 nuts that hold the plenum on to the blower casing (the bottom back one can sometimes be a lil challenging without the right extensions/wobblers).
5: Starting with the passenger side, relieve any fuel pressure in the lines by unscrewing the schrader valve's cap and pushing a small screwdriver down on the center stob. It is suggested to use shop rags/paper towels to soak up excess fuel that will obviously spill out (just wrap them around the schrader valve before depressing the center stob).
6: Next, remove all the injector harnesses.
7: Now undo the 2 nuts that hold the fuel rail onto the intake housing (the nuts may already be seized to the studs, so do not be alarmed if the nuts/studs all come out together as one).
8: Take and slowly lift up on the fuel rail by applying a very small rocking motion from the front side of the rail with your right hand and the back side of the rail with your left hand. The rail and injectors should all come out easily with *very* minimal force. Do not let this scare you. You can't screw anything up here, nor honestly on any of this R&R.
9: Replace the 4 passenger side injectors with the 4 new 60's and be sure to use your old brass looking metal clips on the new injectors. They come off actually very easy. It is important that you dip your finger in motor oil to coat around ALL the o-rings on the injectors to ensure they slide in without force onto the rails and intake. Do not use excess oil as it is not needed.
10: Install your new adapter harnesses. If you purchased the adapter harnesses from me (RWTD), you'll notice we have the best in the business (stout connectors and heat shrinked tubing around the exposed extension wires), as well as the best in pricing on them (shameless plug, but true, lol). You'll also notice that you most likely will never get the ends that go to the factory harnesses clipped by just pushing on them with your fingers. They are suppose to be tight (this is done purposely for a great seal), so the trick here is to push them as far as you can with your fingers, and then use a small flathead screwdriver to life "UP" on the release clip. You will hear a "CLICK" when you do this. This is VERY important to make sure you have them locked in. I've seen some people not do this and then they will have codes come up later on from injectors not firing because the harnesses backed out. I've seen other people put electrical tape around them trying to keep them held in. This can all be avoidable if you follow this step from me properly, and then use common sense on how to get them to lock in.
11: Reinstall injectors and rails by ensuring everything is lined up and going in straight. Apply steady pressure EVENLY down onto the injector rail to ensure they all go in equally and at the same time.
12: Button back up your passenger side in reverse order of removal, including reinstalling your cold air intake.
13: Now for the driver side. This side can bit slightly challenging if you let it intimidate you. It's NOT any harder, trust me. You will notice the metal vacuum line assembly is in your way. All you have to do is unplug the majority of the small vacuum hoses from it, then unbolt the metal vacuum line assembly from the blower bracketry and pull it back out of the way (there are 2 bolts that hold it into place, plus 1 nut on the backside of the EGR; you do NOT have to remove this EGR nut). Yes, this will bend it slightly doing this, but it bends right back in place when you reinstall it, so do NOT be concerned doing this. Otherwise you can also remove the nut on the backside of the EGR valve that holds the backside of the bracketry on (you'll regret trying to do this in a tight cramped space), and then work it out of the way from there.
14: Now take and follow steps 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12 again for R&R on the driver side.
15: Double check everywhere for installation misses, such as vacuum hoses, nuts/bolts, etc.
16: Hook up your negative battery cable.
17: Turn the key from OFF/ON at least 5 to 10 times to build pressure back in the lines, giving at least a 3 seconds pause between each cycle, so as to allow the pump to prime.
18: Get out and check for ANY fuel leaks around the injectors. If there isn't any fuel previously spilled heavily from the R&R then you would most likely be able to notice any heavy gas smells if you had a leak, but not necessarily. Do not allow this step to cause you to overanalyze and make you become overly concerned. Just using common sense here. If you do not see any leaks then you do not have any.
19: Crank the vehicle and check again for leaks.
IMPORTANT: MAKE SURE YOU HAVE YOUR NEW CUSTOM TUNE CALIBRATED FOR YOUR 60# INJECTORS INSTALLED BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO CRANK AND DRIVE YOUR VEHICLE. DO NOT CRANK OR DRIVE YOUR VEHICLE WITHOUT IT. YOUR VEHICLE WILL NOT RUN CORRECTLY WITHOUT A TUNE DESIGNED FOR THE 60# INJECTORS!!!
20: Shut your hood (sorry, had to make it to 20 steps, lol). Now go have some fun!
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