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MGC

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Hi all, I'm going to Road America in October with MVP track time, I just wanted to run down what I have for mods installed already and see if I'm missing anything and also to get some advice about the track itself. I've lurked in this section for a while to get an idea where I want to take this car. I'm a newbie to Open track so obviously seat time is going to be my biggest factor, just want to make sure my car has a decent set up.

Mods so far are:
Borla XR1 mufflers
Bassani O/R X pipe
K&N FIPK2
MM CC plates
MM Steering Rack Bushing
Steeda 2 point STB
MM FL SFC's
275 NT05's on all 4 corners
Powerslot rotors
Hawk HP Plus pads all around
J&M SS lines
Rear seat delete
Stock pulley with tune from Jon Lund
Gas pedal mod
Clutch adjustment mod

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks. :beer:

-Seth
 

PETSNKE

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Read the primer at the top of the forum and flush some new brake fluid through the system and you're all set. Will RA be your first event? Gingerman would be a better track for a first timer.
 

Gray Ghost GT

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Since you have MM CC plates, I recommend getting a good alignment with approx. -1.7 camber in the front and its still streetable. You'll see a significant improvement in turn in. Hawk HP Plus pads are not very good for the road course - you'll burn right through them as a beginner because most newbies tend to use their brakes way too much and with a heavy car...... I recommend getting a set of Hawk DTC 60s or Carbotech XP10s. Many will disagree with me because of the expense since I know they're a lot more money, but stopping is a good thing. Since you're going to be hard on the brakes, you should flush the brake fluid with new Ford DOT 4 or something like ATE Super Gold so you don't boil the fluid and get a soft brake pedal. Check your tire pressures before and after the session. Purchase a good tire pressure gauge.
 

MGC

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Read the primer at the top of the forum and flush some new brake fluid through the system and you're all set. Will RA be your first event? Gingerman would be a better track for a first timer.

I read the primer religiously, yes this is my first time, I've never heard of gingerman though, where is that? I'm going with MVP track time, which has complimentary instructors but I must admit I'm a bit nervous about road america. Thanks. :beer:

Since you have MM CC plates, I recommend getting a good alignment with approx. -1.7 camber in the front and its still streetable. You'll see a significant improvement in turn in. Hawk HP Plus pads are not very good for the road course - you'll burn right through them as a beginner because most newbies tend to use their brakes way too much and with a heavy car...... I recommend getting a set of Hawk DTC 60s or Carbotech XP10s. Many will disagree with me because of the expense since I know they're a lot more money, but stopping is a good thing. Since you're going to be hard on the brakes, you should flush the brake fluid with new Ford DOT 4 or something like ATE Super Gold so you don't boil the fluid and get a soft brake pedal. Check your tire pressures before and after the session. Purchase a good tire pressure gauge.

Thanks! I just replaced the pads last week so I'll give the HP plus's a try and if they don't work good for me, I'll change to some DTC's. Flush with high temp brake fluid is gonna be done the week before the race. I plan on bringing extra brake fluid, engine oil, and coolant, any other fluids I might need? Thanks for the heads up on the gauge.
 

PETSNKE

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I read the primer religiously, yes this is my first time, I've never heard of gingerman though, where is that? I'm going with MVP track time, which has complimentary instructors but I must admit I'm a bit nervous about road america. Thanks. :beer:


Gingerman Raceway is in South Haven, MI
Gingerman Raceway, Ltd.

The SVT Cobra Mustang Club has a driving school there the weekend of Sept. 18th-19th
SVT Cobra Mustang Club Official Website
 

MGC

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Just my luck, I'll be in Vegas and Alaska that week. I'm will try to attend one of the CGI driving schools there however. Thank you for the information.
 

mu22stang

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Do you have any aftermarket gauges to keep an eye on vitals? The stock ECT temp gauge is a bit vague. With a stock pulley Terminator you shouldn’t have problems especially if ambient is below 90 F, but it’s good to keep an eye out. I’ve never gone above 220 F, even with redline shifting for a solid 25 mins (stock pulley, I/E/tune, Reische 170 tstat). However, track layout plays a big role here and Road America has some long straights. You may need to short shift if temps start to run away from you.

I have Aeroforce's Dual interceptor gauges to watch IAT2’s, ECT, voltage, etc. I plan on doing oil temp and pressure sensors - Aeroforce provides two analog inputs for each of their gauges, plus warning lights, so take a look if you're in the market. I find that IAT2’s start to creep up towards the end of a session. IAT2's would approach 145 F if I got into a good hotlap groove.
 

mu22stang

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A couple more tips...

Remove your heat extractor vents on the hood. They don't require any tools to remove.

When you flush your brake fluid, fill the brake reservoir to about 1/2" below the max fill line. The fluid can squeeze out when it expands from the heat, so this should save a mess.

Ford revised the cold fill line on the Terminators, but not many people seem to know about this. The new fill line is 5/8" below the embossed cold fill line. This should keep the fluid in the expansion tank from puking through the cap, which ruins the cap.

I prefer to run with a full tank of gas. I like the balance better, especially in the wet.

Ride with your instructor and anyone that will give you a ride.

Have fun!
 

MGC

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Do you have any aftermarket gauges to keep an eye on vitals? The stock ECT temp gauge is a bit vague. With a stock pulley Terminator you shouldn’t have problems especially if ambient is below 90 F, but it’s good to keep an eye out. I’ve never gone above 220 F, even with redline shifting for a solid 25 mins (stock pulley, I/E/tune, Reische 170 tstat). However, track layout plays a big role here and Road America has some long straights. You may need to short shift if temps start to run away from you.

I have Aeroforce's Dual interceptor gauges to watch IAT2’s, ECT, voltage, etc. I plan on doing oil temp and pressure sensors - Aeroforce provides two analog inputs for each of their gauges, plus warning lights, so take a look if you're in the market. I find that IAT2’s start to creep up towards the end of a session. IAT2's would approach 145 F if I got into a good hotlap groove.

Ahh, good suggestion no I don't have any aftermarket gauges, I will definitely look into that! I have a reische tstat laying around but was unsure if I should get an aftermarket intercooler reservior and install at the same time, thoughts on this?

Road America is awesome - you will love it. I'll be there that weekend with MVP and my '97 Cobra. White car with Iowa plates.

Awesome, see you there!

A couple more tips...

Remove your heat extractor vents on the hood. They don't require any tools to remove.

When you flush your brake fluid, fill the brake reservoir to about 1/2" below the max fill line. The fluid can squeeze out when it expands from the heat, so this should save a mess.

Ford revised the cold fill line on the Terminators, but not many people seem to know about this. The new fill line is 5/8" below the embossed cold fill line. This should keep the fluid in the expansion tank from puking through the cap, which ruins the cap.

I prefer to run with a full tank of gas. I like the balance better, especially in the wet.

Ride with your instructor and anyone that will give you a ride.

Have fun!

Thank you, very good information!
 

MGC

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Forgot to mention, I am attending the CGI motorsports driving school on the 13th at gingerman, I think this should help me out as a newbie and not be so overwhelming.
 

mu22stang

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The aftermarket coolant reservoir will not help cooling, so install that when you feel the need to improve the aesthetics of the engine bay. The coolant reservoir change shouldn't require a coolant burp, the tstat will.

Do you have front brake cooling ducts? You'll need them.
 
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David Hester

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HP+ aren't a bad place to start, if they are fairly new (couple of thousand miles or less.) I've raced with the DTC-70 for a couple of seasons (bought several sets from a racer that had upgraded to Wilwoods) and really didn't like them. Great at the end of LOONG fast straights, but I feel the Hawk Blues have better pedal feel. Road raced with them at VIR and did OK with a Fox body A-Sedan car.
Fresh fluid and pads are a good idea. Fresh oil change, too.
 

BlackBolt9

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Where in Michigan are you? If you're relatively close I'd be willing to meet up and go over some things, answer any questions, maybe look at a track map with you.
 

MGC

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The aftermarket coolant reservoir will not help cooling, so install that when you feel the need to improve the aesthetics of the engine bay. The coolant reservoir change shouldn't require a coolant burp, the tstat will.

Do you have front brake cooling ducts? You'll need them.

Man, you guys are good! Didn't get around to installing them quite yet. Thanks for all your help. :beer:

HP+ aren't a bad place to start, if they are fairly new (couple of thousand miles or less.) I've raced with the DTC-70 for a couple of seasons (bought several sets from a racer that had upgraded to Wilwoods) and really didn't like them. Great at the end of LOONG fast straights, but I feel the Hawk Blues have better pedal feel. Road raced with them at VIR and did OK with a Fox body A-Sedan car.
Fresh fluid and pads are a good idea. Fresh oil change, too.

Good to know, the HP+'s are fresh just installed them last weekend actually, I know road america is a fast track so I wanted to improve my braking but do it slightly budget oriented. :beer:

Where in Michigan are you? If you're relatively close I'd be willing to meet up and go over some things, answer any questions, maybe look at a track map with you.

PM sent :thumbsup::beer:
 

BlackBolt9

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IMO you guys are missing the most important mod to the car (I consider pads & fluid maintanence not a mod). Before you worry about getting hot and going into limp mod or anything else that will make you faster you NEED brake cooling ducts to make sure you can slow the pig down first. It was one of the single greatest improvements I've ever done to my truck.
 

mu22stang

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IMO you guys are missing the most important mod to the car (I consider pads & fluid maintanence not a mod). Before you worry about getting hot and going into limp mod or anything else that will make you faster you NEED brake cooling ducts to make sure you can slow the pig down first. It was one of the single greatest improvements I've ever done to my truck.

The aftermarket coolant reservoir will not help cooling, so install that when you feel the need to improve the aesthetics of the engine bay. The coolant reservoir change shouldn't require a coolant burp, the tstat will.

Do you have front brake cooling ducts? You'll need them.

:coolman:

I agree 100%
 

MGC

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IMO you guys are missing the most important mod to the car (I consider pads & fluid maintanence not a mod). Before you worry about getting hot and going into limp mod or anything else that will make you faster you NEED brake cooling ducts to make sure you can slow the pig down first. It was one of the single greatest improvements I've ever done to my truck.

I agree, I suppose I was just downplaying the significance of the cooling ducts to myself, I'll be installing them asap. I also agree about the power, I've done barely any power upgrades, mostly suspension and brakes as of yet, just don't want to get heatsoaked. :rockon:

:coolman:

I agree 100%

No doubt, I didn't realize how big of a part the cooling ducts play.

I am very excited to say the least. I'm going to get a go-pro and I'll post the video on here. :thumbsup: Just want to say thanks to everyone again for the advice.
 

brkntrxn

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For a first time event, your car prep looks pretty good. Flush the brake fluid (if not already) and bring an

OPEN MIND!



-Kevin
 

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