Axle braces and handling

Fenixfire

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So im going to be building my rear soon and I was going to get some axle braces to eliminate axle flex. How does this impact handling if at all or does it improve it? How might these affect other suspension mods that I will be doing later to improve handling?

I couldnt find anything on this particular subject for axle braces....

When I do build the rear I have determined so far:

3.55 hardened gears
Strange Street/strip 31 spline axles
Eaton Detroit True-trac
Welded axle tubes
LPW Ultimate Diff cover with arp main bolts
Axle braces?
 

N/Angel

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anyone tried the Fays on a New Edge yet? looks interesting and the price is right. might go this way instead of the Steeda 5 link 2 I was planning to get next year...
 

wheelhopper

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I am gathering by "axle bracing" you are refering to what drag racers do to prevent the axle tubes from bending and flexing. That is more a problem for drag racers than road course drivers. The axle twist and flex usually happens when drag racers are launching their cars at 5000rpm with sticky slicks. OT drivers are much easier on the drivetrain. It's brakes, tires, and various joints of the suspension that we wear out.
 

Fenixfire

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While I plan to setup the suspension for road racing I still want the rearend to handle high rpm launches on drag radials. The problem I see is that I dont think I can install a watts link AND run an axle brace setup. There isnt room for both plus the need for coil overs.......... At least I havent found a setup yet that allows you to triangulate the rear diff plus have room to install a watts link with coil overs.

Someone chime in if they know of a way to do this.
 

Gray Ghost GT

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If you plan to install coilovers - then you're moving along the path to preparing your Mustang for the road course, so I would go with the watts link over the drag axle brace setup to compliment the coilovers as part of your suspension strategy. There is no need to install coilovers if you plan to go drag racing.
 

Jimmysidecarr

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At first I thought this was going to be a spin off of the cambered live axle tubes thing.

You don't need an axle brace for a 32V DOHC 4.6.
Get rid of the factory "Quadra-Bind" 4 link for either a Griggs or MM torque arm and you'll be rockin!

That Fays2 Watts is amazing! I have read about those guys on corner carvers, very nice top shelf stuff!:rockon:
 
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Fenixfire

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At first I thought this was going to be a spin off of the cambered live axle tubes thing.

You don't need an axle brace for a 32V DOHC 4.6.
Get rid of the factory "Quadra-Bind" 4 link for either a Griggs or MM torque arm and you'll be rockin!

That Fays2 Watts is amazing! I have read about those guys on corner carvers, very nice top shelf stuff!:rockon:

So lets say I get a fays2 watts link and get coilovers all the way around. Would I be able to put on a set of MT ET streets and do some 4500 rpm launches with 650 whp at the track and have the rearend hold?

Then be able to tune it back down to say 500 whp and put on some equal width tires all the way around and go hit the roadcourse?
 

Jimmysidecarr

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So lets say I get a fays2 watts link and get coilovers all the way around. Would I be able to put on a set of MT ET streets and do some 4500 rpm launches with 650 whp at the track and have the rearend hold?

Then be able to tune it back down to say 500 whp and put on some equal width tires all the way around and go hit the roadcourse?

I don't see why not. People are drag racing with more than that and the un-braced 8.8s are living.

A lot do run the cover with the cap bolts going through, it's a very strong proven rear when it's filled with good components.
 

Gray Ghost GT

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So lets say I get a fays2 watts link and get coilovers all the way around. Would I be able to put on a set of MT ET streets and do some 4500 rpm launches with 650 whp at the track and have the rearend hold?

Then be able to tune it back down to say 500 whp and put on some equal width tires all the way around and go hit the roadcourse?

Sounds like a good plan to me. :beer:
 

gcassidy

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I have seen the Fays at Carlisle a few times. Nice looking product.
I wonder how it compairs to Griggs in performance? Obviously no welding, for better or for worse.

2 versions
dcp_2529.jpg


GR40WattsBig.jpg
 

Gray Ghost GT

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The Griggs Watts Link system is $880 plus the cost of the TA differential cover that must be modified $290 = $1,170! No thanks. I would go with the Fays2 Watts Link for $650 (almost 1/2 the price). Personally, I don't like a watts link that uses the differential cover for leverage....

From the Griggs website:

"Must be used with TA Cover modified for Watts link (part number TA 8.8 MOD). Griggs Racing may be able to modify your aftermarket TA style cover to work. Please contact us if you have any questions."
 
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