Best ways to keep 98 cobra engine cool??

[a1yola]

UPDATE: fully boxed-in (pg 3)!!...Best ways to keep 98 cobra engine cool?

I posted a similar thread in the sn95 cobra section but I think I'd get better feedback here since you guys are all "racers" and know what to do to keep our engines cool.

I have a 98 cobra with the stock cobra hood and was wondering what I can do to lower my engine temps on a trackday. I was running in 90+ weather last weekend and on my 3rd session I noticed my stock temp gauge started to climb towards the "L" of "NORMAL." I turned on my heater while on track and it cooled down to the "R" but I don't want to have to do this in the future. I have a couple questions regarding this issue:

1. What can o change rondo to lower my temps (ie: change my hood, etc)?

2. What is the temperature range of the stock gauge, ie: what is the current temp when the gauge is at the "L"?

3. How hot can my motor "safely" get until I start seeing problems?

Thanks!

 

[wheelhopper]

First the factory gauges are not very informative. If you're going to drive on the track regularly you should get a temp gauge to be sure.

I am going to guess that by saying you're "on track" that you mean OT. After all you can deal with any temp for a quarter mile. With this being the case, get a "track tune". pull a few degrees of timing and add some fuel. This will help your engine run cooler.

You can also run straight water, with some Redline Water Wetter, to lower temps a bit.

These will be the easiest things to do first. After that there is boxing in the radiator and a heat extraction type hood. You may also consider runnning an oil cooler if your engine is running hot to make sure your oil does not breakdown prematurely.

 

[mu22stang]

Heat extraction from the bottom of the engine bay is the only form of cooling you have from the factory. The air dam creates a low pressure zone behind it, pulling the air from the outlet side of the radiator and from the engine bay itself.

It's pretty easy to increase the height and width of the air dam. There's many ways to accomplish this and it's quite possible to make a "track" air dam and a "street" air dam so you don't sacrifice ground clearance during daily use.

 

[a1yola]

Heat extraction from the bottom of the engine bay is the only form of cooling you have from the factory. The air dam creates a low pressure zone behind it, pulling the air from the outlet side of the radiator and from the engine bay itself.

It's pretty easy to increase the height and width of the air dam. There's many ways to accomplish this and it's quite possible to make a "track" air dam and a "street" air dam so you don't sacrifice ground clearance during daily use.

Do you have any examples of how to create a larger air dam for the track?

Wheelhopper, thanks for the input! I'm going to look into getting some type of heat extracting hood or even modify my stock hood and cut it open for the heat extraction. There's a post on corral where people modified their hoods to incorporate a heat extractor. I also plan to get a "real" temp gauge so I can get some accurate readings.

Does anyone know what the normal operating temp should be an how hot it can "safely" get before seeing problems?

 

[mu22stang]

Do you have any examples of how to create a larger air dam for the track?...

Sure do: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/open-track-racing-203/510703-low-dollar-solutions-limp-mode-3.html

 

[a1yola]

Sure do: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/open-track-racing-203/510703-low-dollar-solutions-limp-mode-3.html

Thanks! how low and wide should a track air dam be? Also, what is the best way to secure the air dam to the radiator support?

I've also read on other threads about boxing in the radiator. I saw a couple of pictures of members' setups but nothing too detailed. If I use sheet metal, would I need to weld the sheet metal or are there different methods of attaching it? Also, does boxing in the radiator just consist of closing off the openings on the sides of the radiator or is it more extensive than that?

 

[gcassidy]

My Autometer water temp gauge runs at 180 in normal operating conditions, up to 210~215 at most track events. I was getting some high temps last month, up to 245, and we're trying to determine why. It didn't go into limp mode (it did once years ago). We're putting in a Fluidyne radiator this week in fact.

I didn't look at my stock gauge to compare. But you can also just back off a bit and short shift. That helps cool things down a bit.

 

[a1yola]

Quick question about air dams and front splitters...I'm a bit confused after searching through old threads.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but air dams are mounted behind the bumper cover and usually secured onto the radiator support, right? This part is intended to stop the air from going under the car and up to the radiator?

As for the front bumper splitter/chin spoiler it is intended to provide downforce, correct?

Can the air dam and front splitter work hand in hand with one another, or does one cancel out the other? After reading various threads, I'm under the impression that the splitter reduces the air flow underneath the car, thus reduces the amount of air that the air dam will force up towards the radiator...therefore making an air dam worthless. Is this correct?

I'm also under the assumption that if a front splitter is used then the only real way to cool down th eengine (without a heat extracting hood) would be to box in the radiator?

Sorry for all the noob questions, I'm just learning as i get deeper into the sport of open tracking.

 

[WutApex]

Sorry for all the noob questions, I'm just learning as i get deeper into the sport of open tracking.

haha, your asking all the same questions I'm having, i.e.harness bar, cooling, torque arm, tires, etc:-D

I'm currently trying to get a price for setting up an oil cooler and Accusump.

I didn't even think to box in the radiator. May have to add that to my list of inquiries to my performance shop. Let me know what you come up with if it works

 

[wheelhopper]

Greg, you probably did not get limp mode when you were hitting 245, because of your custom tune. It probably eliminated the factory limp mode setting. You should check to see if your rev limiter is also eliminated.

 

[racebronco2]

Quick question about air dams and front splitters...I'm a bit confused after searching through old threads.

1. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but air dams are mounted behind the bumper cover and usually secured onto the radiator support, right? This part is intended to stop the air from going under the car and up to the radiator?

2.As for the front bumper splitter/chin spoiler it is intended to provide downforce, correct?

3. Can the air dam and front splitter work hand in hand with one another, or does one cancel out the other? After reading various threads, I'm under the impression that the splitter reduces the air flow underneath the car, thus reduces the amount of air that the air dam will force up towards the radiator...therefore making an air dam worthless. Is this correct?

4. I'm also under the assumption that if a front splitter is used then the only real way to cool down th eengine (without a heat extracting hood) would be to box in the radiator?

1.Air dams can be mounted at the bumper cover or under the radiator support. Regarding our cars the air dam is under the radiator support. The air dam under the radiator support causes the air to go under and around the rair dam creating a low pressure behind the radiator as it increases air flow thru the radiator.

2. Yes

3. The splitter will reduce the amount of air under the car but will increase the mount of air thru the radiator. Haven't done any testing to see if it helps or hurts. I have ran my car with and without the air dam and didn't notice any temp difference but i do have a vented hood which will screw the results.

4. Yes, but it still might not be enough.

 

[a1yola]

Thanks for all the info Racebronco! Last question (i think!): If I make a custom air dam using the roll of rubbing gardening stuff (as described in the "Limp Mode" thread), would I need to ad metal on the top and bottom of the rubber to give it some strength, or will the rubber be fine as-is once secured/mounted onto the radiator support?

 

[racebronco2]

Thanks for all the info Racebronco! Last question (i think!): If I make a custom air dam using the roll of rubbing gardening stuff (as described in the "Limp Mode" thread), would I need to ad metal on the top and bottom of the rubber to give it some strength, or will the rubber be fine as-is once secured/mounted onto the radiator support?

When i am not using my splitter i have the gardening strip from edge of bumper cpver to edge of bumper cover. You will need to use angle to attach it to under your radiator support. The ends you can attach it to the small kip on your bumper cover. There are two kinds of gardening strips, one is soft and the other is alot stiffer. Use the stiffer type. I can't remember if i bought mine at lowe's or home depot. I never put any metal re-inforcement at the bottom because i was driving it on the street.

 

[a1yola]

When i am not using my splitter i have the gardening strip from edge of bumper cpver to edge of bumper cover. You will need to use angle to attach it to under your radiator support. The ends you can attach it to the small kip on your bumper cover. There are two kinds of gardening strips, one is soft and the other is alot stiffer. Use the stiffer type. I can't remember if i bought mine at lowe's or home depot. I never put any metal re-inforcement at the bottom because i was driving it on the street.

So did you have your's attached to the bottom of your bumper cover and not to the radiator support? if so, can/should I do the dame or should I attach mine to the radiator support? I have the Saleen bumper so i'm not sure where it'd attach if I connected it to the bumper cover...

Also, did you trim it down or use the full height of the rubber strip? I'm assuming it'd be best if it were as low to the ground as possible as long as it doesn't scrape all over the place?

 

[mu22stang]

So did you have your's attached to the bottom of your bumper cover and not to the radiator support? if so, can/should I do the dame or should I attach mine to the radiator support? I have the Saleen bumper so i'm not sure where it'd attach if I connected it to the bumper cover...

Also, did you trim it down or use the full height of the rubber strip? I'm assuming it'd be best if it were as low to the ground as possible as long as it doesn't scrape all over the place?

I though Jimmy would be in here posting his pic sooner or later. I hope you don't mind if I post it up Jimmy. This should give you an idea. I think using the solid radiator mount as your main anchor point will be key. But, the wider you go with your design, the more anchor points you'll need on the bumper cover.

I'd suggest for simplicity to start with a landscaping strip, trimmed the width of the stock air dam. Don't bother with trimming the height unless it's obvious your ride height is going to pose a problem. However, the great thing about this is mod: it's cheap and quick to change. You can make multiple designs and test their cooling efficiency on the street.

Furthermore, as I suggested earlier, if this is your daily driver you're not going to want the "track spec" air dam on there anyways. On the track you want maximum height for cooling. On the street you want minimum (stock) height for ground clearance.

 

[gcassidy]

I can tell you here's what you don't want.
I just happened to be under my car today as we just replaced the radiator, and knew that my air dam loose and floppy. Off to Home Depot tomorrow for some garden supplies! :-D

 

[Slide It]

A Big Fluidyne or similar radiator will solve your cooling problems for the track.

 

[mu22stang]

A Big Fluidyne or similar radiator will solve your cooling problems for the track.

Will it?

Cost
Cost vs. benefit (very questionable to me there's any benefit at all without boxing)
Installation pains
Weight (at the very tip of this nose heavy pig)

My research has lead me to believe that the single most important factor in reducing engine coolant temperatures is reducing engine bay temperatures. A taller-than-stock air dam is the cheapest, fastest way to see cooling improvements. Boxing the radiator is more involved, perhaps as involved as a radiator install, but not near as messy or expensive as a radiator install, and will provide additional cooling benefits over the air dam.

Why not spend and work less for satisfactory results? This hobby is expensive enough as it is in my mind. Just a thought... or two.

 

[racebronco2]

A Big Fluidyne or similar radiator will solve your cooling problems for the track.

Just not true for most cars in the summer. The problem is not getting the air flow thru the radiator.

 

[98 Saleen Cobra]

I think another thing to think about for the cooling is maybe stepping up to a 04 Cobra radiator.. The 98's have stupid small radiator. I believe the 04's are literally twice the thickness and the cores are bigger. I could be wrong.