My 408 93 Coupe, Build Pics & Info

93_408_LX

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Well I have had a lot of requests for pictures of the build of my car, so here is a thread with some info, pics, and possibly some ideas or help for others doing the same. I'll try and respond to any questions anyone has, just post them in the thread.

Here's a pretty extensive rundown of the car, since I have been asked a ton of questions about it as well.

Engine:

1993 Coupe
408windsor 11.5 to 1
Scat internals
Ported Vic Jrs (flowed 300cfm on a conservative bench)
Billet Comp Solid roller, (254/260 @ .050, 600ish lift on a 110)
Super Victor EFI, milled to fit the nitrous plate
Custom made sheet metal elbow
90mm Accufab T/B
95mm PMAS velocity maf
stock A9L with moates chip, using Binary Editor to tune

Drivetrain/Suspension/Exhaust

Spec 3 clutch
Ford racing T56 tranny, with upgraded 26spline input
31 spline 8.8 with 3.73s

PA Drop K-member with tubular a-arms, Moroso mounts
Koni Yellow Struts with 400lb front coilovers
Koni Yellow Shocks with 175 lb rear springs..I think...
MM subframes
13" Front/11.65" Rear Cobra brakes w/NRC brackets
(1993 Cobra Master cylinder 1" bore with sn95 booster,
even with low vacuum from the motor still stops hard!)

Roll bar consists of SW Racecars main hoop/cross bar, then I made the rear bars and side
bar myself. Sidebar uses Chris Alston Chassisworks swingouts.


BBK 1 3/4 Headers (cleaned up), flange cut off to go to 3" custom
X-pipe, then 3" flowmaster 2 chambers, and 3" mac chrome Tailpipes





So here is the car from the start: I originally purchased the car from Kentucky, it was super clean, no rust, all options, a perfect car to start with. The fun began after this. The car was also very clean underneath, so that was a plus! This car had numerous powerplants, it originally was built with a turbo 302 setup which I had a lot more pics for. However I'll bypass that and cut it to show it's build to the current state.


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The plan was to fill the engine bay, and of course hide all the wiring. The brake lines were also to be hidden in the fender and run through the frame rails. The line lock resides in the strut tower below the master.






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After countless hours of welding/grinding, making the brake lines from scratch, and hiding the wiring in the fenders and under the dash, she was ready to go to paint. The tubular front end was installed, as well as the rear end with all the brakes etc. Nothing new to show there, and I don't really have pics. The body shop then did the bondo and finishing of the engine bay. I was actually unhappy with how the engine bay turned out, they had used too much bondo for my liking, and it wasn't as clean as it should have been. I have since had it re-done, but do not have any pics of that in progress so I will just show the original ones.






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After paint, I was quite happy with the color. The engine bay was ready to take on some action, so now the true fun was about to start.






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93_408_LX

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So the next task on hand was the subframes, and building the cross member for the T56. I put the maximum subframes in first, then build the supports for the cross member after, using the subframes to help. I am not a fabricator or welder, but I decided to tackle it on my own. My welds are getting better but still aren't perfect. It appeared as though to use the stock cross member with the T56, I needed to simply use the back side of the cross member for one side of support, then build my own for the back. It's extremely tough welding to this very thin floor as I am sure lots of you know. I was actually impresssed with myself and very happy at how it turned out.


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I also added the classic torque box re-enforcements in order to beef the weak factory units up.




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This is definitely a condensed build thread. I spent literally hundreds of hours hiding all the wiring, building the engine (which I actually don't have pics of), and all the other things that take hours and hours. After the T56 was ready to go, it was time to put the motor and tranny in, together of course. I should mention that there was also a lot of time figuring out exactly how to make the intake elbow. It needed to clear the fuel rails, fit under the stock hood, keep the throttle linkage away from the valve cover, and go overtop of the heater core rail. This was no easy task, but it worked out awesome!





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Next, I threw the headers on after cleaning up the ports. From BBK, the welds inside are terrible! With the size of the ports on these Victor Juniors, I definitely could have used a 2" primary or at least a 1 7/8th. However, without getting one custom made there was no way it would fit with the motor so low in the car, and the car so low to the ground.

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With the headers in, I decided to attempt something I hadn't done before, and it was quite the tall task. I wanted the 3" to fit properly with the T56, so it needed to be custom. I bought a universal X-pipe kit, and took up the tall task of trying to completely build the exhaust, WITHOUT A HOIST! Laying on my back has never been so much fun. Now granted the welds aren't the greatest, but I was again impressed with how well I did building the exhaust completley from scratch (not the tailpipes), while trying to use a jack and other various bojang items to hold it up.







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93_408_LX

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With the exhaust done, it was back to the engine bay. What I did next was probably the most time consuming out of everything. I needed to run all the wiring THROUGH the super victor for the sensors and injectors.

Then build, bend , and flare all of the vacuum lines and nitrous lines from scratch, with a few running through the intake as well. Then the solenoids needed to sit cleanly, and all the nitrous wiring needed to be clean as well. The heater core rail was also a task in itself.

I have never seen a stock coolant rail fit on a super victor EFI intake (for a 351), so I bent, cut and mangled the factory one until it fit around the injectors. However, a custom piece had to be machined to run the coolant sensor in the same tube as it was from the factory. This all needed to clear everything else that was in the way, and still look clean of course.

The fuel lines also needed to be made, and they needed to run around the back of the motor to the stock location down below. This added more fun to the mess that was already there! The regulator was mounted at the front of the block below the head, in a nice little spot where the gauge was visible and it was all accessible.



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For the valve cover fittings which I have had many questions about, I took an aluminum bung fitting and had the OD milled to fit perfectly inside the valve cover grommet hole. Then, they were tig welded from the back. Finally, they were re-polished again to clean them up.





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Back inside the car, it was time to put the cage in, and start doing the interior. I also used some dynamat style stuff to try and keep the car as quiet as possible. When you are hiding wiring, as well as wiring ignition, gauges, nitrous, etc, the wires really add up.

To make it all look factory and for all the kick panels and carpet to fit properly, it is quite the chore. Just to give you an idea of what I am dealing with, check out how many wires are going to the msd, and nearby. Those aren't factory wires.

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Time to chuck the carpet in, and more interior work



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The interior in its final state



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And that's basically all the pics of the build I have. Here are some of my favorite shots of the car when it was completed:





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And the video of course as most of you have seen!




[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfMC9Egd1F8"]YouTube - 408w Mustang In Car Pulls And Street Burnouts[/ame]
 

G-STANG

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Great work man :thumbsup:. I will be booking marking this for reference when I do my major overhaul. My favorite notch on this site :beer:
 

Dave_6

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Birmingham, AL
:eek:

Amazing work!!! One of the nicest Fox's I've ever seen!

It should be an easy 10 sec ride with some skinnys on it.
 

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